north wales

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day7 Day of Rest

/ runningforthegate / 2 Comments

Today is a rest day for this gal!

I started the day at the Offa’s Dyke Cottage B&B with a full Welsh breakfast and then some. I was the only one staying at the Offa’s Dyke Cottage B&B and just look at the spread they made me. Breakfast heaven!

From there, I made my way to Knighton by literally accompanying my luggage as it was transferred – a really pleasant hour drive with the luggage lady. She was so fantastic telling me a bit about the wildlife and small towns as we passed them. Such a great visit – filled up my people cup after so much time alone on the Path!

Knighton literally means ‘town of the Dyke’ and marks just over the half way point for us ramblers walking North from Prestatyn to South! A great place to pause.

I am staying at the Red Lion Inn in Knighton. The owners were so kind to let me check in super early – so it could be a foot up, little adventure, foot up kind of day.

My the little adventures have been mostly about chores – first up was a visit to the tiny little laundromat (foot up while the clothes were washing and drying) to refresh my hiking clothes for the last half of the Path.

The owner of the Red Lion Inn walked me down to the laundry so I wouldn’t miss it as it’s quite a small doorway (I would have totally missed it) and gave me a bowl of ‘washing up mix’. Literally a glass bowl from their kitchen with detergent in it. So sweet.

While doing laundry I met a nice women folding her clothes and we got to talking about the trail and books. I asked her if there was a place to buy a book in town, sadly no. We talked about how great it is to finish a book but then how bad it is to then be without a book – which is my current problem. Anyway, she left .. and 5mins later she comes in and hands me a book. She popped home to grab it for me! So, so sweet!

Back to the Inn to hang my now clean clothes and spend … you guessed it .. the afternoon with my feet up!

A little outing late afternoon to get some tape for my foot, grab an early supper and snap a few pics of this cute little town was my last adventure.

A pretty low key day that’s for sure. I am excited to get back on trail tomorrow!

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day6 Buttington to Lower Cym

/ runningforthegate / 2 Comments

Day 6 of 14 done and dusted folks! Today was a great day – the path and the weather behaved marvelously and my foot, for the most part, minded it’s own business too! A win!

The day started with a 1.5hr up, up, up and more up that got the heart pumping! It was largely through livestock fields or pastures so pretty easy walking underfoot. Nothing too-too steep but just enough of an incline that you still need to really work for it. The next gate or stile in the distance is a major milestone.

What goes up, gives you a great view, and must go down. The next section of the walk stayed up top for a bit in a forested area and included a tour of the Beacon Ring which would have been one of the beacon fire locations from the ole castle days. Very cool! (Yes Shar, like Lord of the Rings lol)

Even cooler was the Offa’s Dyke Path Stamp box I found. Scrapbookers dream! These little boxes are in a number of places along the trail and believe or not I found two of them today!

From there it was mostly a gentle downhill stroll (one uphill with stairs that went on forever) through the forest. I did see a German couple walking North but I think they were going for ‘personal best time’ so no idea where they were heading to or coming from. A ‘hiya’ and ‘good walk’ was our exchange. They were speedy!

After coming out of the forests downhill portion, it was all about the open fields and another field and another. For the most part I had the path to myself – once in a while sharing with a few sheep of course who were so kind and gave me my personal space.

Met an old American fellow also walking North he was quite excited about being in his last few+ days of this walk and waxed poetic about Cotswold Way (he did it last year).

And a few more forest bits to wrap up the day – this section reminded me of the Hobbit! (You can take a peek at the different trail highlights in a compilation video of each day on @runningforthegate Instagram)

I stopped a couple of times to do the sunscreen thing – it doesn’t really show in the photos but it was one of those overcast but still bright days. Those are when I burn the worst! Oh and one quick stop for a shoe change and half sandwich – funny how much energy you put out when walking but so little appetite. The Welcome to Shopshire signs were in so many places – what a friendly bunch!

So really it was a near solid 6hr walking day, I left at just before 10am and arrived at my B&B at 4pm. The Offa’s Dyke Cottage B&B is literally on the Path – and is absolutely amazing! I thought I was still a couple hours away but a quick map check out it at the 45min mark instead and that put a pep in the step!

I have the run of the place. They made me a fabulous cottage pie (like shepherds pie) and so many wonderful veggies for supper, now I am sitting in the guest’s living room in front of a fire with a view out over the country side. Wow! Everyone needs this gem on their ODP!

Ok that’s a wrap for the day! A tea and a book by the fireplace is in order.

Tomorrow I am off to Knighton for a heal-my-stupid-wrecked-foot-in-a-day rest so I can ‘keep swimming’ the rest of the OPD and then onto Cotswolds Way. I am all about the long game on this one peeps and am currently at about 140km of the 450km+ planned!

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day5 Trefonen to Welshpool

/ runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 5 of 14 done and I loved it! Ok full disclosure it was a LONG 27km that took me over 8hrs to complete and the last couple of kilometers along the canal and then through Welshpool city to town centre seemed to take FOREVER … but what an easy walking, long stride, sunny day!

I started the day with sunglasses on and a climb through grassy sheep filled fields to the top of Moelydd at 934feet. A nice little warm up to the day – a little yoga and stretching may or may not have occurred at the top.

From there the path moved into some fantastic forest walking. A little dark, soft underfoot, sounds muted and another very steep and long climb up to the Llanymynech Rocks Nature Reserve. Such a great section of the trail and oddly some of it was along a golf course!

The only downside – I was clearly the first person through the forest this morning. I was glittering with webs by the time I made it through and had to send a few 8 legged hitch hikers on their way. Free loaders!

As I came down from the Reserve I was surprised to be welcomed to England! I knew the Offa’s Dyke crossed the border a few times but just felt odd to actually experience being in Wales one minute and England the next! And no one asked for my passport of vaccine proof lol.

The next bit was a couple hours walking the canal. This section is ‘dead flat’ as per my guide book and the entertainment was all the different tunnels/bridges.

From canal to cattle … I spent the next couple of hours walking a very, very, very long grassy embankment through so many livestock fields. The benefit of sheep – they are cute and move for you. The downside of cattle – they are also kinda cute but you move for them. This can add both a lot of steps and a lot of thistles and stinging nettles to your day as as you try and find ways to give them a wide berth. I felt like they were on my path EVERY TIME!

Along the embankment section I met a couple of ladies who where from England and walking the Path but crazy enough had lived in Vancouver for 20 years as nannies! I also met Al (an older American gentlemen who may also be doing the Cotswold next) and is the very same walker I was asked to say hello to by Bruce (an older English / Australian) who I met on the Path yesterday. What a network!

Now back to canal … I finished the day with a couple more hours on the canal. While maybe a bit monotonous there are some benefits – like a bench every once and a while for a snack or to throw the throbbing feet up for a wee bit.

Highlight of the day? This wee guy peeking at me as I was walking along the canal! I wanted to just cuddle and keep him so bad. Cute!!

I wrapped up in Welshpool at the 300 year old Royal Oak Inn that I am sure is haunted… but I enjoy my large glass of wine so I sleep like a baby and then wait to Google ‘ghosts of Royal Oak Inn’ tomorrow when I am already well on my way!

Speaking of tomorrow, I am off to Lower Cym and staying at the Offa’s Dyke Path B&B right on the Path. My last waking day before a rest day.

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day4 Llangollen to Trefonen

/ runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 4 of 14 done and today was such a pleasure. I am between mountain ranges and very much appreciated the valley time today. Do not get me wrong, there were some doozy climbs but loads of rolling slopes too and these stems can eat those kilometers right up!

After a ride back up to Dinas Bras at 930am I started my day. A couple+ hours later than my preference but that is how B&Bs roll … if you want the breaky part of the B&B that is!

The day started with a lane walk but quickly shifted into fields and a lot of forest walking too – so quiet and so soft underground in the forest! Trevor Hall Forest was perfection!

From forest to canal! I was excited to walk along the canal for a while – seeing the very long passenger boats go by was so neat. Next time I think a canal ride between towns and then walking the rest of a day would be magic.

I chose the low path along the canal to get photos of the 126 foot high aqua-duct that the canal runs across (even the boats). The walk way on the aqua-duct is an alternative Offa’s Dyke Path route for those who like heights and we have established I do not!

After my canal time, it was field to lane to rocky trail again for the rest of the afternoon. The threat of rain hung in the air all day – but only torrential rained twice for a short time (less than 30mins) and immediately followed by sunny skies! Yahoo.

I did have a run in with some very stubborn milk cows .. these little jerks would not move so I could walk through. They just looked at me and kept eating grass. When I did a little arms wide ‘move on ladies’ they all stopped eating and looked at me.

That scared me a little, so I used the barb wire fence to try to gracefully cross a cow crap / bog swamp thing and well that failed miserably when I slipped off a stone into the ick and could feel my blister burst on impact. Ugh so sanitary.

Finally made my way across the poo bog and gave all the cows a wide berth to get across the field. But then they started following me. Ugh I double timed it big time! I am not drinking milk for a week – that will learn em!

(When I did Hadrian’s Wall Path in 2008 I was literally chased by a bull so I may be a little sensitive to the whole bovine thing.)

One of my big highlights today was meeting a fantastic couple on this bridge. They retired in Australia and are on a 3 month walking holiday, they have done a few Paths here I Uk have done (like Wes Highland Way) and a few I want to (like Coast to Coast) and … believe it or not .. they will be doing the Cotswold at the same time we are! Chess and Susie – hope to see you again but maybe let’s not stand about chatting for 30mins on the Path next time 😉 Pub would be better!

I finished up my day at 21km today and caught my transport into Oswestry – another fantastic little town to check out!

That last one there is my wee home for the night and my room has a Nespresso and a milk frother in it! I have not had a coffee since I left home – I may have done a little happy dance and forgave the cow jerks from earlier.

Tomorrow I am off to Welshpool which will be a 24km walk with more time on the canal – my foot is loving the easy walking. A good ‘rest’ as the next mountain days are looming.

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day3 Clywyd Gate to Llangollen

/ runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 3 of 14 complete and what a beauty – I got a bit of everything today. Quiet lane waking, some hard work up and over livestock fields, quiet and dark forest paths, and even a lengthy and amazing stone pathed bog (my favorite!)

I topped out at 26 kilometers today in just over 8 hours and honestly I felt every step. Maybe a good time for a foot update…

4 months ago in a soccer / futbol match I tore 2 ligaments in my right foot. Not ruptured but a grade 3 tear aka barely hanging on. You cannot fix ligaments except with surgery and they don’t do that until they are fully torn (ruptured). The result was months of physiotherapy to make my foot and ankle and calf and hamstring stronger so they compensate for these now wimpy ligaments.

Well as I walk farther and harder (up and down steep sections of which are around every corner or stile) my muscles get tired which then let’s those ligaments misbehave. Long story long, we are only day 3 and every step feels like fire in my heel and a punch in the arch. Once I get a good clip on it feels much better (not gone) but after any break or pause it’s a bit of torture for a while and I am pretty super sore at night. Combine that with the rocky surface or cow churned up field and holy-heck-ouch. I have pain killers (not sure they work) and topical pain killer cream (I think helps a bit) and stretches but it’s feeling pretty ick.

I may need to build in a rest day and that makes this long distance hiker’s heart break – i will think about it over the next few days and pick it strategically if I do. I don’t want to mess up the Cotswold Way Walk that I do just after Offa’s with my sister Shar and our besties Rosa and Cheryl. I do have a rest day between so that’s good this and that – so that’s good!

Back to the good stuff …

I put up a compilation video on @runningforthegate Instagram off some of the different trail bits to give you an idea of that too.

What I didn’t get to do today was the scree crossing – this terrified of heights gal just couldn’t make it happen. I thought it was pretty short like 100-200meters and was fully prepared to make it /happen. But, oh no my friends it is over 2 MILES or 3.2 KILOMETERS long and there is NO exit and is largely just shoulder width with nothing on the edge. You have to strategically think about how you pass people. That is just too much for me. Ugh thinking about it makes me all tummy floppy. The tipping point was honestly 3 different walkers I passed who had just come from that section encouraging me (without prompting) to take the alternative lane route – that is was awful. Lane it is!

To give you an idea of what this scree crossing is all about … here is a photo of the scree path from the nice, flat, quiet and quaint lane I was walking (it runs parallel). See that line across the mid point of the scree slide? That is the path! The second picture is the same shot just super zoomed in to show you the hikers up there that you cannot even see in my first photo it’s so high and scary and awful and no thanks!

My day near wrapped up with a break on a bench (that they call seat around these parts) admiring the ruins of the Dinas Bras Castle – or as one old gent put it when he asked where I was headed as I walked past his farm ‘that there is a real castle not like one of those pretty Edwardian things England offers’. While having my break, I ate my classic apple and a chocolate as another old guy and I exchanged stories of our long distance walks, his favorite was West Highland Way. Me too!

From there it was a 40 min lane stroll down into Llangollen where I am staying at the Squirrels B&B which is amazing! My room is so great and perfect and I enjoyed a warm tea, some cookies and a little nap with my feet up the wall as soon as I strolled in.

After that, a short stroll to check out this cute little town – and grab a pint and dinner, of course. What a cute little town!

Tomorrow is another 26km but looks pretty amazing .. and will be as I am going to wake up and my foot will be all fixed! 😉

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day2 Bodfari to Clywyd Gate

/ runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 2 of 14 done and what an absolute doozy! We are talking 20 kilometers, 6 of the Moels (mountains) of the Clwydian Range, one steep sheep track (my mistake) and the highest point of the entire Offa’s Dyke Path… aka a doozy!

My day started a little later than my preference – the taxi driver, the very Peter of Peter’s Taxi, does a school kid drop of so could only get me for 845am. So my actual hike started at 930am after a 25min cab ride a short moment to post my Day 2 good mornin’ on @runningforthegate Instagram and IGTV.

Before leaving the Sarum House B&B with Peter, I was up early to grab my lunch and snacks at the co-op – including Prawn Cocktail crisps (chips) mmm. Then I enjoyed a lovely breakfast at the B&B before donning my sunnies (sun glasses) for the day! Yahoo sunshine in North Wales!

Right out of the gate, and by that I mean a kissing gate, I was heading up and up and up. I was not quite ready for the incline so my new buddy, Snaily McSlowerton was kicking my butt. In the end, my legs beat out his slime and I made my way up and over not just the first but all of the Moels today.

Some highlights of the first, Moel Pen-Y-Cloddiau at 440m or 1442 feet – those old prove to be the most gentle of all my climbs today.

From there it was my arch nemesis Moel Arthur at 456m or 1496feet. This one gave me so much trouble I am officially friends off with anyone named Arthur! Ugh the way up was ok but I could not find the descent and ended up on a very steep, there may have been tears – ok there was, on this sheep path from hell.

See that nice path that goes up out of the right of the car park .. that should have been my way down. Instead I came down that line of rocks/fence largely on my ass in prickle county! Ugh.

From there it was up and over Moel Dywyll at 472m or 1550feet which had a crazy incline up hill – like just straight up the Moel. Has anyone in Wales heard of switchbacks?

Then it was into Moel Famau with the Royal Jubilee Tower sitting on top of its 555m or 1820feet. I could see the squat building from the start of my morning calling my name and it looked SO far away! This is the highest point on the Offa’s Dyke Path and I put up a wee video on @runninforthegate Instagram that includes my attempt at capturing the amazing, panoramic scenery from atop this beauty. If you listen closely you can hear me laugh as I am almost pushed over from the wind!

From there it as down, down, down to just go back up and up to Moel Eithinen at 432m or 1425feet. Including a little spot to toss up the feet and have a wee lunch!

Once down from the last Moel, it was a nice jaunt across some pastures, and a very friendly face in my cab driver waiting for me. I had guessed a 5pm when I chatted with him that morning .. and it was 5:02! He got me to my lovely Sarum House B&B in about 10mins and I enjoyed a shower and my feet up with a tea more than I can tell ya!

Tomorrow is a longer day about 24km but I do finish off the mountain range with just a couple more and then a nice stroll (she laughs) into Dinas Bras where I stay next!

Brandé