West Highland Way

West Highland Way, Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

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Day 7 of 8 on the West Highland Way wrapped up both in pouring rain and in sunshine…

We started today’s 14.5km trek from the beautiful Kingshouse Hotel in Glen Coe, after our 745am breakfast.

Today we had the infamous Devil’s Staircase as our first hurdle on the trail and everyone was keen to hit this highest point of the West Highland Way at 550m before the rain started. We made quick work of the meal so we could get boots on trail asap. By 815 am most of us were out the door!

The path started with some a couple of gentle climbs but largely level, open and wide track for about 3.6km from the hotel to the base of the Devil’s Staircase. The rain looked to be holding off for us and we were thankful!

I actually hadn’t had the chance to hike and chat with Niki (Spicy Hobbit) yet so took full advantage of this mostly level section for some good, deep trail chat when her and I started to pace with each other .. had to get the chats in before I didn’t have the breath to talk her ear off.

Arriving at the base of the Devil’s Staircase you can look over the road back into Glen Coe and get a great photo of this small, white cottage against the dramatic landscape – I remember this same view well from my first time up this climb in 2008. A quick pic and then the climb began.

The Devil’s Staircase is often thought to be the toughest part of the trail but I think the name suggests more than the punch it packs. It does peak out at 550m but you are technically already at about 270m elevation and takes about 45mins.

The path itself is a single, stone, loose rock or sand path that zig zags the Munro face to the top. While this trail design called ‘switchbacks’ is a clear sign to hikers that there is some decent ascent (or descent depending on your direction) ahead, it is much easier to hike than straight up (pr down) shenanigans!

Also, as a hiker terrified of heights – yes, that’s me – I will take switchbacks over a sketchy straight to the top climb any day!

You just keep swimming, just jeep swimming, just keep swimming .. if you get tired on the climb there are some little passing place pullouts for a quick rest, opportunity to be amazed AGAIN by the view, and then back at it. Just keep swimming. I was chasing our day’s pace car Kristi (Ka-chow) and Lori (Goose) up the path – stopping to take pics or film video along the way. If you look closely in the pic above you can just make out Ka-chow and Goose up ahead.

At the top you are rewarded with 360 views. Looking back across the valley and climb you just traversed and a view of the undulating track ahead. We made it up before the rain started.

With only a very light mist was in the air at the top, I had such fun greeting the crew as they came up and over the last stretch of the climb! Encouraging those who wanted to carry on to the rest of the trail ahead – assuring folks us lingering at the too peeps would not be far behind! A little too chilly up there to hang out for too long today but I did have to wait for Shar (Early Bear) and Nikki who decided to quickly bag the adjacent Munro top, Bien Bheag at 616m for kicks.If you zoom in you can see there wee little bodies at the top!

Once everyone was up, we were on our way down the other side for a fantastic afternoon of undulating forest path. The rain hit pretty hard a couple of times but with the biggest climb of the day behind us it wasn’t too much bother. Most electing to just wear a rain jacket and forgo the rain pants with such a short distance (less than 10km) to finish.

Unfortunately the day ended with a long, steep forest gravel road down into Kinlochleven. You were still largely in the forest so it was pretty all around but the grade of the decline was very ouch on any sore joints or feet. The image below is a photo looking back up the road to show the grade – and it does not do justice to the angle we were trudging. My knee hated every step of this part of the trail today!

But no worries, despite the pouring rain and sore bodies from that decline section, we all showed up smiling at the Trailrace Inn that greets walker’s as they enter Kinlochleven at about 130pm for an end of day pint and some lunch at their pub. Walkers were arriving in drive’s after us and soon the place was fabulously busy.

By the time we left the pub the rain stopped and we headed to the Edencoille Guest House – we had almost every room in the place for our overnight in Kinlochleven. Most of us electing for an afternoon of sunshine on their front deck before dinner. Amazing!

The stats of the day:

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 7/8 Finished!
  • To/From: Kingshouse/Kinlochleven
  • Start/Finish time: 8:15/1:30pm
  • Distance: 14.5km (14.9km Hiiker)
  • Steps: 25,736
  • Terrain: single track to, over and down from the Devil’s Staircase. The a wide gravel road decent into Kinlochleven
  • Breaky: full Scottish breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: baby croissant sandwich, Mac and cheese
  • Dinner: cottage pie
  • Pints: 3
  • Tonight’s home: Edencoille Guest House
  • Mood: smiling
  • Body: feeling great.. except on the gravel road decent, a knee killer!
  • Highlights: the views, wow just wow
  • Lowlights: the gravel road
  • People of interest: the Scots guy who ran the Balcony Bar and Inn like a well oiled machine
  • Spontaneous dancing: nope
  • Deep thoughts: empty ziplocks, a silk liner and laundry soap are necessary in a long distance hike

Next up is the finish line, Day 8 from Kinlochleven to Fort William!

Brande

West Highland Way, Kinlochleven to Fort William

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Finish line! That’s a wrap – our merry crew of West Highland Way walkers rambled into Fort William on Friday and sat down next to the guy with sore feet to celebrate our success!

And a special treat, our last day on the trail post is thanks to Shar (Early Bear) …

The morning started with a bittersweet (yet delicious) breakfast. Each of us filled with excitement for the finish line we have all worked so hard for and the sorrow of this amazing adventure coming to end.

Greeted with showers as we left the B&B and made our way through Kinchlochleven to rejoin the trail only to be faced with a steep climb up and into a beautiful trail winding through a glen so green and generously speckled with heather.

As the trail wandered through this lush valley, we danced over many small creek crossing, passed through the shadows of the surrounding monroes, coming across ruins of an old farm and cottage.

Shortly after passing the tall lone pine on the hillside, the trail leads you into a conifer plantation and onto a single undulating forest trail where we were welcomed by a herd of grazing sheep.

It was shortly into this part of the trail that hints of the great Ben Nevis whispered in our ears and teased our sight.

A steep ascent up and onto a forest road lead is down and into the Nevis Valley as we inched towards the finish line in Fort Williams’s Gordon’s square.

Although the surrounding was intensely stunning as Ben Nevis dramatically comes into full view, the last of the trail leaving the wilderness behind us was underwhelming.

With a short journey leading us through a small forested recreation area and onto a tarmac sidewalk where we pushed hard to get past and into Fort William.

The treck from this point on was a bit torturous – pavement is not a welcomed trail surface after journeying through the amazing landscape of the past 7.5days.

Passing the original end marker and onto High Street was pretty exciting for those whom have not visited Fort William previous to this adventure! And exciting for Brande (Doctor Boots) as this was the only finish line that existed her first completing the Way in 2008.

As we made our way to the end of the Way all our group gathered to cheer each walker as they got the man with sore feet on the bench waiting for us!

We hit the Black Isle Bar (pictured behind us above) for a celebration pint. There was even a toast from our resident Newfoundlanders, or as some on the trail may know them as as Impossible Turtle and Twisted Lobster or more recently C&C Walking Factory. All rights reserved, copyright, etc.

A Toast to the WHW

Devil’s staircase couldn’t break us
the paths before did take us
through glens of thistle and heather.
We crossed them all together
today, we ended the way in style
and celebrate every mile.
So cheers to the fast and furious,
here’s to the last and curious
to the keeners and in-betweeners
Slàinte Mhath and long may your big jib draw

What an amazing journey. How can something that feels so many days, so many kilometers, so many blisters, so many trail hurdles away come to an end so very fast? Already there is talk of what trail is on the books for our 2025 reunion!

Brande’s stats of the day …

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 8/8 Trail Complete
  • To/From: Kinlochleven/Fort William
  • Start/Finish time: 9:30/5:20pm
  • Distance: 23km (25.4km Hiiker)
  • Steps: 37,493
  • Terrain: single track up and up out of Kinlochleven, wide track through the Glen, into single track through forest and finally gravel road down to tarmac in Fort William
  • Breaky: full Scottish breakfast (scones were warm! mmmm)
  • Lunch n Snacks: baby bacon sandwich, cheese, jerky, candy, orange juice
  • Dinner: Grog & Gruel Chili Dog
  • Pints: 4
  • Tonight’s home: Stobahn Guest House
  • Mood: smiling, maybe even happy tears
  • Body: feeling really good, the hips are all that made themselves know yesterday – need to make sure I am not changing my stride for this brace
  • Highlights: the second half of the day on single forest track, amazing scenery with some hard work – my favorite
  • Lowlights: gravel road down to tarmac
  • People of interest: the little 6yr old girl walking the entire Way with her family without a care in the world
  • Spontaneous dancing: nope
  • Deep thoughts: there may be a reason trail and trial have the same letters (trial, an experience to test quality and value)

Now off the prep for the East Highland Way that starts for 2 of us on Sunday July 16!

Shar

West Highland Way, Orchy to Kingshouse

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That’s a wrap on Day 6 of 8 on our West Highland Way adventure! What a fantastic day. l love how after a few days into a day after day walking adventure – the trail distances start getting easier and easier. We knocked off 20km in 5 hours when a similar distance days ago was taking the group 10!

We started with a lovely breakfast together, most having a full Scottish or at least something warm/cooked. As folks were ready to go (carry forward bag left in reception, packed lunch tucked away in a rucksack) they started out across the historic Bridge of Orchy.

The path started with a pretty good uphill climb up and up on a single track through forest and then clear cut forest to amazing views.

From there we dropped back down to walk along a tarmac road for about 30mins – where we passed the most energetic and interesting shop owner at the Inveroran Hotel. He was standing outside congratulating us on hitting the 100km mark and suggesting ice cream to celebrate. Everyone who passed had a little bit of a different but still wholly excited experience. Sounds like Cheryl and Charmaine even had the pleasure of hearing play guitar and sing with inside the shop grabbing something.

On the tarmac, we passed a few farms and field. You may get a chance to see some local cows on some of our group’s Instagram accounts – they were next to the fence and so cute. Shortly, we made a quick turn and we’re back in or among the forest to start our very long trek on the Drover’s road where we experienced the life of cattle of old.

Drover’s roads existed (with many still around today and often part of the National trail system) for farmers in the good ole days to drive / walk their cattle to market. There was usually an Inn or hut for the Drover himself to shelter in at night along the route. We saw many of these as ruins but some are still around as Inns, bothies or private homes. We had the chance to have dinner at one, aptly names the Drover’s Inn, a couple days ago.

The actual Drover’s road itself reminds me of a cobblestone concept – rocks of all shapes and sizes across the road way pressed into the dirt to create a ‘road’ that unfortunately is pretty rough under foot. Good luck finding a flat spot to step. You really need to pay attention to each step or risk an ankle roll. We had almost 10km of this surface but the weather was great, not to much for incline or declines, and we had lots of rivers and bridges and the view to keep us entertained.

We had mostly great weather – some threat of rain but it settled itself into mist only and then back to sunshine – making for a great opportunity to take some photos and have a nice long break!

As we got closer to the end of the day, you could really see the view start to change – we were coming across Rannoch Moor with its beautiful expanse of open moorland (heather, grasses, some wild flowers and very very soggy soil without a tree anywhere for the eye to see) and then finally up and up over the shoulder of Bien Chaorach (a small Munro) and we had views of Glen Coe. Wow!

It was not too long from here where we could spot the Glen Coe Ski Resort in the distance and not too much farther the Kingshouse Hotel.

I was really excited to stay at this Hotel again. When I stayed in 2008 it was an oasis in the middle of nowhere after a pretty lonely day on the trail. I literally saw not a soul when I did this section back in 2008 – today we saw 50 people I bet including like full families! I also heard they had put in 12+million pounds to upgrade the place too.

The hotel did not disappoint – what a great place to stay! We met for drinks in the bar, our group growing as folks finished their day. A few took naps and/or met in the hikers bar (a little more our style aka less fancy) for some Quirkle and a pint before our dinner reservation and a much deserved good night’s sleep.

The stats:

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 6/8 Finished!
  • To/From: Bridge of Orchy / Kingshouse
  • Start/Finish time: 8:30/2:30pm
  • Distance: 20km (19.8km Hiiker)
  • Steps: 27,290
  • Terrain: single track up and up and up to start then down into wide track but like old cobble stone street – hard under foot ,
  • Breaky: full Scottish breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: half a chicken sandwich, gummy sharks, chips
  • Dinner: venison pie
  • Pints: 3
  • Tonight’s home: Kingshouse Hotel
  • Mood: smiling
  • Body: feeling great
  • Highlights: chatting and walking w sis
  • Lowlights: spot of rain
  • People of interest: n/a
  • Spontaneous dancing: nope
  • Deep thoughts: in future build a natural rest day into long distance hikes so you can get to know a place

Next up, 14.5km Kingshouse to Kinlochleven .. which includes the stretch of trail called the Devil’s Staircase!

Brande

West Highland Way, Tyndrum to Orchy Bridge

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Day 5 of 8 on the West Highland Way for our crew was a fantastic, sunny, social doddle!

The 10.5km walk from the town of Tyndrum to the Bridge of Orchy on wide track was almost like a rest day for the body and feet after some of the doozy days we have had already and those planned ahead. The weather was fabulous, adding to the joy!

Our merry band started out from the Green Welly shop at 10am. No need to rush with such a short distance so why not have a little lay in that morning!

The Green Welly shop is featured in guidebooks, blogs, YouTube videos and more by WHW walker’s as an oasis. It boasts a restaurant, service station and store, gift shop, liquor store, laundry and well kitted outdoor shop. We took advantage of most. Almost all of us picked up something from the outdoor shop – I blew out a pair of socks already so replaced those. I used the laundry machines for me and my roomies. All of us popped into the shop for snack refills for the next couple of days (there are no stores for the next 3 day on trail).

Myself, Shar, Cheryl and Rosa all accidentally stopped into that liquor store which had Arran Gold, a liqueur you can only get from the Isle of Arran. We fell in love with this liqueur when we did the Arran Way in 2018 and have been searching for it since! So yes, we all added a 750ml bottle to our packs lol.

Off we go, starting just around the corner from the Green Welly onto a minor road for a short distance then after a hard left onto wide track (think old, gravel road with no gravel left) which would be under our feet all the 10.5km to Bridge of Orchy.

Despite it only being about a 3hr walk, we could not resist a short break on a neat bridge with the sun shining. The view of the bridge side was of the rail track and we all had some Stand by Me comments of course.

At one point even the OG, the original crew, the brain child of ‘lets invites amazing women on a long distance walk with us in a breath taking country’ idea .. which resulted in this path and this crew today!

After our short break, we kept on walking – same track but maybe beside someone different this time. I love my quiet time on the trail but sometimes, when the track allows for u to walk 2 by each, good trail conversation is the best – even sometimes some trail therapy!

The tail end of the walk included an awesome tunnel under the rail line. And, if you have not noticed, tunnels require a photo!

Just before 1pm we rambled up the Bridge of Orchy Hotel – where we would have lunch, dinner, sleep and set out from tomorrow. We were not inside for 10mins before the skies opened up and it poured big time!

We enjoyed a great afternoon with pints, soups, scones with cream and jam, and more. Then a little quiet time in our rooms or chilling on the little deck at the back of each of our rooms. We were all in a row on the bottom floor so it was like being in a dorm!

At 6pm we met in Nikki and Deb’s room where Shar introduced everyone to a taste of the Arran Gold on ice – a resounding YUMMY from everyone. So amazingly delicious!

We had a fabulous dinner at 630pm in the hotel restaurant (the only game in town) and yes I had haggis again. Everyone was ready for winding down at about 9/930pm for a good sleep before we challenge our 20km walk to Kingshouse, a tough but beautiful day on trail.

Brande

West Highland Way, Inverarnan to Tyndrum

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Day 4 of our 8 trek of the West Highland Way was yet another fantastic one folks! Mostly easy walking and largely great weather makes days like this one dreamy.

Once again our crew of 12 was split between 2 B&Bs, some were at the Glengarry B&B up the road (which sounds great) and then we had 4 rooms at the Tigh na Fraoch B&B (Heather’s House in Gaelic) which was amazing for our crew! At our respective homes for the night, we woke up to yummy breakfast before catching our transport taxi at 815am back to Inverarnan (Beinglas Campsite). This was the same spot we left the Way yesterday.

We piled out of 2 taxi’s at about 835 and gathered at the Beinglas parking lot to get packs sorted, sun screen on, final blister checks and start our walking / hiking apps! The crew was really excited about the largely level walking today and that we had sunshine!

The last time I was at this campsite it was a little cafe and a small shop and some places to stay. Since 2008 it has grown fabulously and now boasts a big shop, bar and restaurant, cabins and more.

From the Bienglas Campsite, we headed up and back out of civilization again. Largely on wide track or some skinny sections up and over the hills through bracken and trail that had been turned to stream with the recent rain fall. All very easy walking if you kept a close eye on a sure spot for your foot!

After a fantastic morning we all took a lunch break together! I love when people can walk at their own pace, dispersed on the trail and yet we still find each other for breaks! Especially when there are some benches and sunshine.

After lunch we had a steep, long climb up into the forest to follow forest track for a couple of hours. Some was unfortunately clear cut forest but they already have saplings planted to build up the next forest for walkers in future!

After a couple of fun tunnels (one was a sheep run that require some serious crouching), a few bridges and some decent decline sections, we were back on level ground and making our way into town on park paths or moorland paths.

By now it’s raining hard. Most of us thought it would stay to just a classic mist of Scotland but were quick to discover this was a serious deluge and quickly donned the rain gear for the last couple of hours on trail.

We passed some fantastic historic spots on our final kilometers of the trail. An old graveyard with a informative display of what the engravings on the grave stones mean; the ruins of the St Fillan Priory, and the loch where they believe Robert the Bruce’s sword was thrown into and legend suggest it still remains in the lake to this day.

We made it into town later afternoon. Our walking crew for the afternoon (Niki, Deb, Kristi, Lori, Shar and I) made our way to the Tryndrum Hotel for a pint and late lunch / early dinner. We were shortly joined by the rest of the crew as they made their way into town for an end of day pint!

The rain continued to pour down! We braved the quick walk to our B&B and I took my turn doing our laundry (Rosa, mine and Shar’s) while they finished up in the pub or went back for showers. The laundromat machines were outside! Gotta love the Green Welly shop.

It was an early, chill night for most of us. After laundry, a shower, and a chat we all got ready for some downtime and finally some shut eye.

The stats:

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 4/8 Finished!
  • To/From: Inverarnan / Tyndrum
  • Start/Finish time: 8:45am/3:00pm
  • Distance: 20km (19.7km Hiiker)
  • Steps: 27,598
  • Terrain: wide track on open ground or through forest. Easy walking for about 80% of the day mixed with some undulations and a few steep / long ups and downs
  • Weather: 19C blue skies in the morning into rain for the end of the day (and it’s still raining)
  • Breaky: full Scottish breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: ham sandwich, half a Kit Kat and a Juice Box
  • Dinner: haggis, neeps and tatties
  • Pints: 2
  • Tonight’s home: Tigh na Fraoch (heather’s house in Gaelic)
  • Mood: smiling
  • Body: body feels good, dealing with some abrasion from brace
  • Highlights: waterfalls and rapids
  • Lowlights: laundry
  • People of interest: the couple who say just a foot away from where we were having our lunch break in the middle of nowhere then proceeded to make loud phone calls
  • Spontaneous dancing: nope
  • Deep thoughts: let it flow

Day 5 we would to Bridge of Orchy – stay tuned for details!

Brande

West Highland Way, Rowardennan to Inverarnan

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Day 3 of our 8 day West Highland Way trek is in the books and let me tell you it was a doozy! Notoriously the hardest day on the trail and it lived up to its reputation, big style! Ouch!

The day started with a full crew breakfast at the Clansmen Bar (part of the Rowardennan Hotel where we stayed) with all kinds of chat about what to expect on the trail. Words like strenuous and torturous were being read from guide books. Yikes. But hey, nae bother, we got this – let’s get it done!

The crew tacking the trail today headed out at 830am with about 3km warm up before we decided on if we would take the low road (said to be hardest with lots of bouldering) or the high road (said to be the way to go for Loch views) for the first half of the day. In the end we split the uprights so we could get the best of both worlds! Half up and half down.

Myself, Niki and Shar decided on low road and off we set ready for the challenge ahead!

The low road was easier than I remember than the last time let me tell you. Lots of fun skinny trails on the edge of the 2m or 30m drop to the Loch, lots of rocks to climb up and over or down, a couple of scrambles, a few bridges and a bunch of stream crossings. All good fun on a dry day with all the time in the world – yahoo us!

The high road crew surprised us by popping down to the beach on the low road where is low-readers would be passing by for a fantastic lunch break! Amazing views and awesome company – yes please. We all had packed lunches from the Hotel the night before so felt like little school kids excited to see what ‘mom packed for us today’. Sadly no chocolate bar but yummy cookies!

After our not so brief beach stop we finished off the morning on more undulating forest track, with some good and steep up and down hills to manage. Nothing horrible, especially as we passed waterfall after waterfall – the pretty stuff helps put the hard work in perspective.

We stopped at Inversnaid Hotel (half way on todays’s 22km trek to enjoy some more of our packed lunches and snacks on the lawn overlooking the Loch again. We could not get enough of this view. Today we would say good bye to Loch Lomond and move into our venture into Glen Coe our mod mountainous are – so we soaked it in!

After lunch (and a quick group photo, of course) we heading out to finish the last of the trek on the shore of the Loch. Now, full disclosure, this is when the trail got real-real.

Do NOT let anyone tell you the ‘low road’ between Rowardennan and Inversnaid is hardest, it’s not easy but it’s a doddle (in my opinion) compared to the next 2+ hours we would be spending horizontal scrambling up and over rocks on the precipice of the Loch! Squeezing between rocks and trees, between rocks and rocks, crossing streams and mud and all kinds of trail fun! Mind you, this was not a day for bad knees and darn it half the time the hinges on my knee brace were just wide enough to get stuck where I needed to precariously put my foot. Growl!

Having said that, it was all very fun and beautiful when if loads of work! We were all smiling but also ready for the chance to just walk on something flat for even a few steps.

On the second last beach of this section of trail we lost two of our crew .. the Newfoundland twins just could not resist the siren call of a large body of cool water on a hot day. We left them to dip in and meet up with us later.

And then there were 5, all keen to see the end of this stone scramble staircase shenanigan so we high tailed it through that last section of the stoney trail – taking one last photo at the end of the Loch to celebrate saying goodby to that particular flavor of trail hell.

From there the trail flattened (a little) under foot and wow the views opened right up to such amazing hills – the pictures just cannot do justice to how majestic it all was!

We made quick-ish work of the last section though bracken (pictured above) and forest track for another 2 hours. We were pacing very fast on this last stint – excited to finally find our way to the Drover’s Inn, today’s finish line.

The Drover’s Inn is a pub and hotel established in 1705 and has all the makings of a haunted stay! The Wi-Fi password even has the word Haunted in it! Rob Roy allegedly stayed here when avoiding arrest (there is a room named Rob Roy). I had the pleasure of staying there when I did the West Highland Way the first time in 2008 – an amazing stay but a little ghostie creepy.

After a quick bite and a quick pint or two, our transport arrived to drive us to our B&Bs in Tyndrum for the night. We deserved showers, feet up and a good sleep after the trail work we put in today. Wow!

The stats:

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 3/8 Finished!
  • To/From: Rowardennan/Tyndrum
  • Start/Finish time: 8:36am/6:11pm
  • Distance: 22km (23.8km Hiiker)
  • Steps: 30,355
  • Terrain: stone steps and bouldering and up and down and crawl and ouch – today is notoriously the toughest day of the Way and it did not disappoint
  • Weather: 22C blue skies, a few clouds to start and finish the day but otherwise it was wow!
  • Breaky: full Scottish breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: cheese and pickle sandwich with crisps trail side, naked skittles, cookie, almonds
  • Dinner: haggis, neeps and tatties
  • Pints: 3
  • Tonight’s home: Tigh na Fraoch (heather’s house in Gaelic)
  • Mood: smiling
  • Body: shaking legs after all that work, and sore arms using my hiking poles to full advantage but good sore not pain
  • Highlights: weather was amazing, our hiking crew today was perfection
  • Lowlights: tics
  • People of interest: the lady in reception at Rowardennan telling ghost stories
  • Spontaneous dancing: nope
  • Deep thoughts: just keep swimming

Day 4 we walk from Inverarnan (where Drover’s Inn is) to Tyndrum! Stay tuned.

Brande

West Highland Way, Drymen to Rowardennan

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That’s day 2 of 8 wrapped up on the West Highland Way, we made it from Drymen to Rowardennan. Today was the big Conic Hill climb day and it lived up to its reputation! The extreme winds didn’t help mind you.

The crew started the day with yummy breakfasts in our respective B&Bs and everyone started their day at their own pace and time and somehow a bunch of us still ended up finding each other along the Way.

Cheryl, Charmaine, Shar and I had a great full Scottish breakfast at the Shandon Guest House at 745am then set out for the day at 830. The wind was crazy (kicked up on the middle of the night) and we wondered if it was going to bring the storms or clear the storms.

The day stared with about a Km of road walking and then quickly turned to forest track which was just amazing. A couple of Km into the forest track we were so excited to come upon Kristi and Lori, creating our fantastic crew for the day!

You can see in the background here the infamous Conic Hill, a 371m – our destination from this path! The walking was fantastic through the forest and then moorland paths – the views amazing!

Once we hit the Conic Hill approach, the path got real! So well groomed but it was definitely up and up and up across sand and small rocks with large boulders to step up and reduce erosion. The wind was in our favour pushing us up the hill – thank you!

Once at the trail top, a few of the crew took the additional 5-10mins to the very top of the hill for the 360 views! After a bit of time feeling such gratitude to be standing looking over Loch Lomond with the sun shining on us – we started our way down. The wind continues to blow hard, a couple times I had to lean into the hill – felt like I was gonna blow away.

The way down took me what felt like forever with this knee – I felt really good about myself when kids were running past me in sandals. Great confidence boost! lol

Just after coming down from the Hill, we had a short forest walk and then we arrived in Balmaha, a great little Loch side town, where we had lunch at Oak Tree Inn.

After a great lunch, toasties and pints, we were back on the Way to tackle the 11km to our home for the night, Rowardennan Hotel. The path was forest track or right along the Loch. Other than the clegs (horseflies), midgies and black flies it was a fantastic walk. The up hills were frequent and much tougher than usual thanks to the Conic Hill burn from earlier but wow what an amazing section of the trail!

We arrived at the Hotel at about 5pm, already talking about ghosts seeing the place was established in 1696, and showed up for a nice dinner and rehash of the trail all together!

Brande

West Highland Way, Milngavie to Drymen

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An exciting first day on the West Highland Way for our merry band of 12 Canadian rock star ladies. Most of which who have never done a long distance hike before! West Highland Way was my very first long distance back in 2008 and I am so exited to do it again with this crew. I bet it also won’t be their last. I can see the long distance bug building already!

We started the day at 8am dropping our carry forward bags (all the stuff we don’t need for the actual day of hiking) with Travel Lite. This company will drop our bags off in Drymen, our destination, at our respective B&Bs.

From there the crew had breakfast together at the hotel restaurant – many trying a Scottish breakfast for the first time. Not the best one I have had by far but does give you a good idea on what is available (but yummier) on the trail ahead. Mmm black pudding.

We made our way from there to the start of the trail, the obelisk near the center of town (pictured above) and after a photo montage and setting up our various and preferred hiker apps, etc we were on our way at about 945am.

The path quickly turns from city to park path and after just a couple of kms we had our first excitement – a little detour to the Mugdock Castle Ruins. About 2kms out and back off the trail, and of course with a large hill (castles are always on high ground) but totally worth it!

Back down from the castle and on the Way again, we started to all find our individual pace and the groups that matched to establish the day’s hiking mini-crews. All of us were heading to the Beech Tree Inn or Turn up the Beet cafe’s in Dumgoyne just over half way so would see each other again there are or at dinner tonight. Walking your own pace is really important on these hikes – the body will thank you for it everyday!

Quite a few of us made the quick detour to the Glengoyne Distillery just before Drumgoyne. An easy detour on a nice day – involves maybe a 300m walk across a sheep field. We tried a 12yr old and an 18yr old whisky and both were equally disgusting to me but other visitors seemed to be enjoying it. Ha ha

From there it was just a few mins walk to Beech Tree Inn for our delicious lunch toasties and maybe a pint 😉 before heading back on trail. We were at 11km already and had only 8km or so to go before reaching tonight’s destination in Drymen. No problem!

Much of the last few kilometers of the day were on tarmac minor roads which makes the dogs bark a little (feet hurt) but allows for a nice pace and good conversations. Nikki, Shar, Mama Debster and I (my walking crew this afternoon) were having some pretty awesome laughs as we rambled on. We loved the one little community (self proclaimed the Shire) that set up a bunch of signs here and there playing on The Hobbit theme!

We rolled into our town for the night, Drymen, at about 545pm and clocked at 23km ready for a quick shower and change before dinner.

Most of the crew is staying at Kip in the Kirk B&B a converted church hall, the Hillview B&B of the Shandon Farmhouse B&B (about a kilometer out of town). We are at the Shandon and the hike up and out of town was totally worth it – what an amazing place!

For dinner we had 630pm reservations at The Clachan, on of the oldest bars establish in 1796 and wow was it amazing! The building had all the fun touches of being very old giving it a great ambience and the menu was amazing. Who needs to think about calories after walking that far? Not us!

We had a nice dinner on the restaurant side, then a few of us popped over to the bar side for a final night cap before making our way to our respective homes for bed. All of us pretty excited to get the feet up!

Here are the stats:

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 1/8 Finished!
  • To/From: Milngavie/Drymen
  • Start/Finish time: 9:35am/5:40pm
  • Distance: 19km + Detour trail (24.5 Hiiker)
  • Steps: 31.009
  • Terrain: mostly flat some steep inclines largely path or rail bed some road walking
  • Weather: 21C overcast not rain
  • Breaky: Full Scottish Breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: cheese n ham toastie with chips and a pint
  • Dinner: carbonara
  • Pints: 4
  • Tonight’s home: Shannon Farmhouse
  • Mood: smiling
  • Body: feeling good, blisters from knee brace and heat rash
  • Highlights: Mugdock Castle detour
  • Lowlights: road walking
  • People of interest: the old Scotsman Patrick Murray sitting outside the castle telling stories
  • Spontaneous dancing: not today
  • Deep thoughts: I have one pace when walking, is this me in life too?

Next stop Rowardennan .. just past the challenge of Conic Hill.

Brande

Excitement or Anxiety or Bit of Both

/ runningforthegate / 1 Comment

In the build to a big trip, or even a small one, sometimes excitement can start to feel a little bit like worry, or nerves or even anxiety. Don’t let this dampen the joy of your pre-departure prep. Instead focus on the things you can control about your adventure to ground any anxious thoughts – what you pack, what you plan, how you prep, etc.

My good friend Niki, trail name Spicy Hobbit (and her rockstar mom) are part of the crew I will be hiking the West Highland Way (WHW) in Scotland with this summer. Their first time in Alba and first time shifting their day hikes into a long distance, 8 day hike. Niki joins us today as our guest blogger sharing her excitement about our adventure …

Scotland! I can’t wait for this trip. Scotland has been at the top of my list of places to go in the world, since I was young. I never in a million years thought I’d be going in this way, to hike the WHW with friends and my 71 yr old mom.

What a way to see a country, I can’t wait to smell the air, see the countryside, look at the trees and sites, take in the history, taste the food, listen to the accent, talk with the people, enjoy the music and drink the whiskey. Not only am I hiking the WHW, my mom and I are going on a wee road trip after the hike. We can’t come all this way to not see where my mom’s family is from.

As soon as the deposit for the hike was put down, the planning was in full gear. First thing that was recommended for me to do was book the places to stay. The hike is being organized and booked by Contours, I have to plan and organize everything mother and I do after the hike. Being summer when we go, most places will be booked. So I researched, wrote, lists, compared prices, checked out locations and details for a month. Next, the car rental. After researching the roads I will be driving, prices, days needed for, pick up and drop off, I settled on a manual, which I haven’t driven in 20 yrs, yes I will be practicing before.

Getting the important things booked for the side trip, I then focused on my backpack. The pack I will take across the pond, carry on the hike and around Scotland. I had to get the right fit because everyone knows size does matter. Once my backpack was purchased I started to make lists of clothing to take and toiletries and extras. I have stuff sacks to keep my clothing organized and tidy. I have been pre packing and continuing to make revised lists. I dont want to take too much or not enough. Plus the excitement of the trip makes me play in my pre packing. Apparently this is stuff you do just weeks before not months, clearly I can’t wait for this trip and want to make sure I have all I need.

I have a book about the WHW and have gone through highlighted things to see along the way, or take note of, where we are walking to or by also taking notes of things to look out for or see along the way, I don’t want to miss anything. I have also done the same for after the hike, of the places my mom and I will be going to. I may be stuffing too much into so few days but I’d rather have a taste of it than not at all!

As we approach the 3 months to go marker, my anxiety and excitement are colliding, am I organized enough, have I prepared all of my essentials, is there much more I can get or do to prepare, are we there yet????

The anticipation is driving me mad, and then I think I hope it doesn’t go too fast? Remember to stop smell, breathe, look and take in the moments.

Niki

The Next Adventure

/ runningforthegate / 4 Comments

The makings of my next adventure are in full swing folks and I am so excited …

I am off to Scotland .. yes, again! I just cannot get enough of that place. It is the best small country in the world don’t you know! Don’t believe me? They will tell you, on a huge sign right when your come off the plane in Glasgow.

There is truth to this claim I tell you. The countryside, the highlands, the munros, the history, the wee villages, the people, the haggis, and more – all are absolutely pure, dead brilliant. 😉 The weather could use a touch of work but, well, it is really part of the Scottish experience. So I forgive them the near constant Scotch mist and unpredictable but yet expected sideways rain and winds that can push you right off a cliff! Still brilliant!

This trip is going to be a Scottish long distance thru-hiking trifecta – Speyside Way, West Highland Way, and Eastside Way.

No way? Yes way!

Let me wax poetic a little bit about each of these Ways for a bit so you can see why I am so excited:

  • Speyside Way is a 106km (66mile) ramble from Buckie on the North Coast of Scotland down to Aviemore, a fantastic little ski town in the Cairngorms mountain range. The route is never far from the Speyside River which feeds the many distilleries along the Way. A wee dram for ye lass? Yes please! I have the pleasure of walking this one with Rosa my sis-in-law-law and we are gearing up for a pre-walk evening in Aberdeen and a very haunted accommodation (more to come on that) before heading out to bag this Way in 5 days!
  • West Highland Way is a 154km (96mile) walk into the highlands of Scotland featuring the most beautiful of lakes, Loch Lomond. So beautiful there is a fantastic song to go with it! We start in Milngavie (right outside of Glasgow) and walk up to Fort William, an outdoor adventure hotspot. For this one, my dream of organizing long distance hikes for groups is coming true … there are 12 of us Canadians hitting the trail! A mix of sisters and friends and even a mom/daughter duo – all who love hiking but most have never done a long distance hike before. West Highland Way was my VERY first thru-hike back in 2008 and it started a fire in me that has resulted in me traveling all over the world to ‘get my hike on’. I cannot wait to see that fire light up in these gals too! We refuse to rush this experience and have given ourselves 8 days to walk.
  • East Highland Way is the icing on the cake for this trip. A 135km (84mile) hike from Fort William to Aviemore. This is tougher hike that the others – traversing through glens, hills and mountains with very limited way marking – hello map and compass! I will have my trusty hiking partner and sister Shar at my side for this one and we are up for the challenge of completing this one in just 4 days! I will be in full hiking mode after completing the Speyside and West Highland so have no doubt the 35km each days on this one will be no bother.

Each of the links above take you to the Contours Walking Company webpage dedicated to that walk. This is the company we have been working with to get all the details sorted. The team over at Contours have been just amazing to work with and I cannot tell you how much their local experience and relationships means to our hikes. It is their hard work that will ensure all of us have a cozy bed to sleep in each night, a delicious hot breakfast each morning and the pleasure of just carrying our light day packs. I am not affiliated with Contours, just grateful! I will be sure to pop up a post about walking companies one of these days so you have the skinny on what they do and how to make sure you got a good one when you plan your thru-hike adventure – they can make or break the pleasure of your hike!

The trifecta adventure starts in just 20 weeks which means my go-to 20 week training plan has kicked off! I depart on June 27th (135 sleeps) and start walking Speyside on June 30th – let’s get this body trail ready!

Off to get me a 10km hike in …

Stay tuned for more details on each hike, the prep and planning and packing, and of course a play by play as we complete our adventures!

Brande