spanish

Portuguese Camino now in Portugal

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We are officially, for real, finally, super excited to now be in Portugal! We walked from Villadesuso to A Guarda and then we hopped a ferry to Caminha, the port city of Portugal.

We arrived yesterday after a 20km walk on mostly amazing trails or forest tracks along the coast line. Only a few kms on the highway path overall, an awesome change from the day prior. Here are some highlights:

We powered through the day in hours – likely because of our lazy, more than one coffee, amazing breakfast that was included in our hotel room cost the night prior.

We have been at this ‘walking / pilgrimage’ thing now for a while and 20km is peanuts to these legs and feet! So much so our pilgrimage spirt animal the snail may now just be an ironic mascot. Nonetheless, he was out cheering us on big time yesterday!

We hit A Guarda in about 3hours. Once there, we decided to head straight for the ferry port to meet our water taxi when he arrived in a couple hours. We were sure there was a pub or cafe at the port and we had pre-made some yummy cheese sandwiches (mine where cheese and jam) for our lunch. While walking though town we snapped a few pics of the good stuff. The first pic below is their public library – wow!

Our plan to go to Caminha, Portugal on a Monday was rather not well timed. Turns out the only day the ferry between A Guarda in Spain and Caminha in Portugal does NOT run is Mondays. Come on! What are the chances!

So the night prior I had posted a plea on a Camino de Santiago form I belong to on Facebook called Camigas. Basically women helping other women plan, pack, walk, and reminisce about their pilgrimages. Within minutes of posting ‘help’, I had a host of replies from these awesome ladies. One even had a picture of a poster from an Albergue that advertised who you could call if the ferry was not running to get a water taxi of sorts.

So I called some guy named Mario in Caminha who had a boat and arranged for a 4pm pick up by his brother, in a red boat, from the dock A Guarda where the ferry usually is. I think I did anyway. He spoke Portuguese. I have learned only the most basic Portuguese which does not include arranging nautical transport to another country. We both spoke only some Spanish. Disaster! Well turns out the plan with Mario was doomed from the get go – Portugal is an hour earlier than we were in Spain. Oops, who knew! So did we arrange for his 4pm or my 4pm?

Down at the dock hoping for the best and that Mario would show up – especially after we came across three other pilgrims who also didn’t know the ferry does not run on Monday’s and needed to cross and invited them with us and Mario’s brother. A troop of cyclists (pedal bike) from a tourist group showed up. A whole host of them, like 25-30 bikes. Turns out they rented the ferry to cross and we could join them if the ferry people agreed. What!? Yahoo!

So we boarded the ferry with the tour group and paid just 1 Euro to cross each. Mario’s brother was charging us 5 Euros each. We were not the only ones to hitch a ride either – the other three pilgrim’s did and a few cars drove on as well. Hilarious! How do you even go about renting a ferry in the first place!? One of the phrases you hear a lot on the Camino is ‘the Camino provides’ … it sure does!

I called Mario once onboard and let him know (I think) that we don’t need him, don’t need boat, have boat, but thank you. Hopefully he got the message and didn’t come across for us. I had talked to the women who works at the bar by the ferry station and she knew Mario. She would have seen us board and maybe called him too. What a place!

Good bye Spain, we had fun:

Hello Portugal, so excited to meet you:

Once docked and we had walked the few short blocks into the old city center we were in love with Portugal! The houses were that classic European style all close together with amazing doors and instead of paint, most homes were tiled on the outside. Amazing. We went crazy photographing the houses, the tile, the doors!

We settled into our new home for the night Arca Nova, did some laundry (you do this a lot when you only have a few items each) and then ventured the town for the evening! We enjoyed those sandwiches we had made for lunch for dinner instead.

We now say goodbye to Arca Nova and Caminha and make our way the 28km to Viana de Costelo.

Buen Camino!
Brande

Sunset of Villadesuso

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Yesterday was day 2 of the Camino Portuguese – Coastal Way for us. We walked about 23kms from Nigran to Villadesuso (33,370 FitBit steps).

We started our day with a special treat – we met the awesome lady who had been making all the arrangements to have our extra bag transported forward. Sometimes she even does the transporting herself. Teresa of Santiago Backpacker Express. She is so helpful and just really such a nice person, it was great to put a face to the WhatsApp account I have been working with for the last few days.

After meeting Teresa, we left our hostel Pazo Pias in Nigran around 9am. The detail on the maps and online about were to walk on this route is pretty limited and so are the way markers. So we had peppered Maria with a few questions when we met her. We knew we had to cross this bridge …

Then keep the ocean on our right again all day. That seemed to work and there was even an awesome bike and walking path all along the coast for us to follow into the next two of Baiona.

We were held up a few minutes taking silly pics using a mirror on the trail. I think the locals walking by though we were nuts.

Anywho back to walking. We had ourselves some yummy eggs and bacon breakfast in Baiona and spent some time taking photos of the original fort they had reconstructed while we waited for the Tourist Info Office to open.

Tourist Info opened at 1030am! The map books we had said we had to use the inland route to make it to the next coastal section. What? We were sure we could stick to the coast the whole time. We wanted to ask Tourist Info if this was true and how. Why waste coast time walking inland! Tourist Info advised we could walk on a path beside the highway which runs along the coast the whole way to our next destination. Great news! Walking on a highway for 20km is tough on the feet it’s such a hard surface but also easy as it’s flat and even. So here we go.

Yesterday, for the first time, Lana and I both had our head phones in. She was music and I was some music and then my audio book. It was safest to walk single file close to the outside edge of the path as there were many other walkers and cyclists using this same path. And the noise of the highway made it a little hard to chat anyway. So that was a fun little change for us.

By 2pm we saw our hotel for the night in the distance, we thought we had about another 6km to go still so this was such a treat!

Yes that is a pool. But don’t get too excited – the pool also has a siesta from 1 to 5pm. So it was closed when we would have gone in. Doh! These siesta’s here are killing us. Nothing is open in the afternoon – not the markets, food in restaurants and apparently pools from about 2 in the afternoon till 8 at night. I am going to come home and expect to be off work and doing nothing for hours everyday after this trip!

We had a nice evening of drinks at the local pub, some beach time taking pictures of the sunset – which was amazing:

After the sunset we tried to find a place to eat – one restaurant had no one in it at all, another had no kitchen, and or own hotel restaurant also had no one in it. No other options in town. Weird! Clearly there are not enough hungry pilgrims in this town! So we had a private dining experience in our hotel’s restaurant – one table among 40. The service was excellent!

Today we get to walk into Portugal – yup we go to a new country today, how exciting!

But first we need to walk 24kms and find the brother of a guy named Mario who has a red boat and will take us across the water crossing into Portugal for 5euros. Sounds suspect right!? Well all the pilgrims on the Camino forums are doing it this way on Monday’s when the ferry service is closed or during low tide. So we are sure it’s a good plan. Yikes! Adventure here we come.

Buen Camino!
Brande

Camino Portugal Coastal Route Begins

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Yesterday was a horrible, no good, very bad day … we had to walk along beach after beautiful beach and enjoy endless sunshine here on the west coast of Spain. Tough, right?

We started what could be considered our fourth Camino yesterday, the Portuguese Way. We are not doing to full route which is from Lisbon to Santiago. But rather the costal portion only and in reverse. Walking from Vigo to Porto. As we get closer to Porto the weather will get warmer making our post Camino tourists days in Portugal that much better. We will be celebrating our Camino adventures with some days in Porto, Lagos and Lisbon before heading home to reality at the end of the month. Again, tough right?

The morning starting as usual – up around 7 and out the door of our home, Hotel Aquila, around 8. Leaving our extra duffel of the heavy stuff for transport. On this Camino we will be using Santiago Backpack Express and so far the owner of the company has just been so great helping is out!

Our Hotel was a real gem – super old but clean and had all the amazing original features. Check it out:

For breakfast we stopped at the Hotel Bafia Cafe right on the waterfront where the Camino begins. They didn’t really offer a hot breakfast but the waiter asked what we would want and said he could try and make it happen. He did! Cafe con leche; bacon and eggs and bread; and for breakfast dessert (yes that is a thing) chocolate and churros. This has been on my list to try while here in Spain – it’s a pretty standard breakfast here and I can see why. Delicious! Too much chocolate and not enough sugar and cinnamon, if you can believe that! I was pumped with sugar and ready to walk!

Oddly, once we did start out at around 10am, we couldn’t find any way markers for the route We decided we will just keep the water to our right side and stay as close to it as possible and eventually we will find the Camino arrows. We knew the little towns and milestones we needed to hit as per our very high level guide book, so that helped give us something to aim for. We are walking in reverse so do have to look back to find arrows and then do the opposite thing – but there was not an arrow to be found in The city of Vigo.

Our first hour was spent walking through the industrial, port area of Vigo which left much to be desired really. We powered through it as quick as we could to get it over with. Thumbs down for this section.

At about the 6th kilometer we came out of Vigo and into a little town called Bouzas and that is where the beauty of the Coastal route started to really show it self. Thumbs up!

Here are some highlights of our amazing, sunny, beachside or directly on the beach walk yesterday. I would say 15 of the 22kms was basically a dream!

We took a brief break mid-afternoon for some fruit and nuts from our pack. But by about 3pm a craving for a sea side cold one overcame us. You can only walk by that much beauty on your right and amazing cafes on your left before you give in to a ‘sit and sip by the sea’ moment.

That out of our system (for the day anyway), we made our way the final 4-5km into Nigran our new village for the night.

We are staying at the Albergue Pazo Pias which is an 1600s monastery of sorts refurbished into a type of hostel. Wow, amazing, maybe it’s haunted, how awesome, and cool! Check out the hallway and all me the first two words that come to mind? Starts with a colour and ends with an alcohol. Ha ha

We did our usual feet up for a bit and check in with the family on our safe arrival. Then out for a couple of drinks and some eats. Here in Spain during certain hours of the day, you get a wee tapa when you order a drink. Yesterday’s were super yummy!

We were back at the room for 900 to journal, social media and wind down for the night. Oh and full disclosure – this is a bit of a confessional. We were (ok I was) too hungry for the kitchens to open to get dinner. Here in Spain you cannot get a cooked meal between usually 3 and 8 sometimes even 9pm. The kitchen staff are off on siesta. So you either eat early or wait, which after walking all day can be tough to do. So we, no joke, had a pizza from Pizza Hut – yup Pizza Hut in Spain, first one we ever saw. It was so good! The crust and sauce are very different than home and way yummier (more fluffy and way more oregano and the cheese is so good). If it makes it any better, I did wash it down with a a Spanish red wine!?

Well that was yesterday and we loved it. Today we are up and at it for a 20km day walking from Nigran to Villadesuso. It is not as sunny today but this blondie is secretly happy for a little cloud cover once in a while (don’t tell Lana – she loves all out, hot hot hot sun).

Buen Camino!
Brande

PS We finally found some way marker arrows about 15km into our 22km day – let’s see if today is a little better!

Mucho Gusta Muxia

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Yesterday Lana and I completed another one of the Camino trails with our waltz (ok maybe not quite that graceful) into Muxia, Spain! The other end of the death coast (Spain’s name for it, not mine) and the Camino.

The day was a long one at 30kms that ended up feeling much longer, likely due to the kilometres and kilometres of just barren forest track we walked through the whole afternoon. Beautiful for sure but you start to wonder if you are getting anywhere at all if there are no milestones to pass.

We started the day with a hot breakfast at the cutest little hippy breakfast place run by some nice Germans right in the centre of Finisterre near the water. Once filled up on coffee and eggs, at around 10am, we started walking.

Now getting out of Finisterre to walk to Muxia is not as well marked as these two pilgrims are used to. We had our bearings mostly correct and the help of a pilgrim who completed the journey in reverse just the day before to get us started. We were pretty happy to see the first ‘a Muxia’ shell way marker though to confirm we were heading in the right direction. With 30km to cover, you don’t want to waste energy and distance getting lost.

Some highlights from our morning walk – which did I mention was warm and beautiful and full of sunshine! A welcome change from the past few days of sogginess. Even when we kinda sorta lost then found our way, we didn’t mind it was sunny!

At about 12km into our day and around 12noon we came into a village called Lires. Here we stopped at a cafe called As Eiras for a cafe con leche to get us going for the last 18km. This would be the last village, cafe, water opportunity until we reached Muxia in another 18km. So we really, really enjoyed that coffee! I also particularly enjoyed it cause of the heart in my creamy foam!

After our pit stop, we walked /slogged that 18km on some pretty neat woodland paths featuring stone walls, some asphalt local roads but mostly spent our time on a forest track (think logging road). It was this barren track that had us feeling the miles on our feet. It was just never ending and most of it up. Also the wind was so strong up along the top of the hills that you were working twice as hard as usual against it to get anywhere!

Finally about 3pm we both felt like we should have been there already and we were starving. We stopped and sat on top of a stone wall and ate the sandwiches we had made the day prior and shared a tetra, individual to go box of wine in our Canada cups. Mmmm

Lunch in our bellies and our feet ‘rested’ we figured we had to have only a few km left in the day … or the guide book was wrong (for the first time ever) and this day was way more than 30km it said it was.

We had been sure for the last hour or more that the coast was just around the corner or just over the next hill. It wasn’t! But now for sure it had to be, had to be – my feet hurt lol. Well it was! Within minutes of leaving our lunch time wall, we could see the coast! Yahoo!

In just a couple kms we were checked into the lovely Albergue Da Costa with the above view, had our feet up and were checking in with family on our safe arrival. Wow what a place.

Later that evening we ventured down to the water’s edge to see the church, Camino milestone maker, and lighthouse. Below are some pics showing you just how beautiful it really all was. If you follow me on Instagram (@brandedavison) I also put up a 360video.

We wrapped up the evening with some eats … we thought we ordered pork chops with chips and we got pork n chips of sorts. Weird but so yummy! Like meat poutine without cheese and gravy – ok so not really like poutine at all. But yummers all the same.

Today we are off to bus and train to Vigo, Spain where we begin our Camino de Portuguese, Coastal Route tomorrow.

Buen Camino!
Brande

Finished (Again) In Finisterre

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Yahoo, yesterday we completed another Camino here in Spain.

The Camino Finisterre – 86kms from Santiago de Compestela to Finisterre, the kilometer 0 marker of all the Caminos! A sort of epic moment for us for sure and for the many other pilgrims taking selfies with the 0 marker!

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We started our day in a very casual fashion. With just 20km or so to cover to our destination we had loads of time. We only had one roomie in our hostel room and laid about until she exited – then we had the place to ourselves to get ready for the day! I laid in bed longer than usual to be honest enjoying the view from my comfy pillow – aka the fog. The place we stayed had clean, wonderful duvets on the bed and we have not experienced a real blanket in weeks!

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At the late hour of 1030 with a cafe con leche in our systems and some toast and jam, we left the beautiful coastal city of Cee to make our way not Finisterre. We got a bit distracted by the next city of Corcubion however …

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Ok for real on our way, we hit a darn hill first thing and by hill I mean hill like crazy hill. Like never ending, hamstring torture hill. I was racing a snail basically and we were sweaty as all heck in the 97% humidity by the top!

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Ok hill of hell out of the way, we were really-really ready to make our way to Finisterre. While it was foggy and humid and a bit misty we never did have to put on our waterproofs. Here are some highlights of the 20km:

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Wow we made it to Finisterre – we checked into outer new home and then made our way another 2+km to the end of all Camino’s at the Finisterre or Faro lighthouse! Here are some highlights of that highway path and lighthouse:

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We headed back down the hill to Finisterre and found the muncipal Albergue to get our next Pilgrim’s certificate:

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The day wrapped up with a celebration with pimientos de pardon (deep fried jalapeño peppers with delicious rock salt) as our local treat, potatoes cause we burnt enough calories and why wouldn’t eat some, and shrimp as we are now on the coast. Chased with a local bottle of white to top things off!

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This morning, we are about to leave our Finisterre humble home, Albergue Finistellae, to head out on a big walk today. 28km to the Muxia coast which many people consider the other ‘finish line’ of the Camino.

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We will check back in 28km! Buen Camino!
Brande

We See the Sea in Cee

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Yesterday, Lana and I were back at it – moving along the Camino by our own two (well four) tired but happy to be on the trail feet.

We walked from Oliveroa to Cee. A go of 19kms or 30,465 Fitbit steps in a little less than 4hours. We had the pleasure (tongue in cheek) of either mist, rain or just plain old sogginess all day. It was our first day on the Camino where we had to wear waterproofs for the full walk. We have been at this Camino thing now for a couple weeks so that’s not too bad! No complaints.

We were up this morning at our usual time of about 7am with the rest of the hostel crew in our room of 12 near full bunk beds.

I was feeling more rested than the days prior thanks to my headphones that play literally the sound of a big electric fan running on repeat. White noise magic! Lana was a little less rested. A pilgrim in the bunk next to us was sawing logs like no one’s business. I turned up my white noise volume and Lana tuned him out – snoring not the problem. Turns out another pilgrim could not tune out the snoring and proceeded to snap loudly or clap from across the room trying to get the snorer to wake. But instead of waking the snorer actually just woke everyone else up. Not sure where they read that the snap/clap technique was a thing – cause it sure was not. You can tune out a consistent snore but not someone snapping and clapping loudly in small room at midnight. Too funny (well it is now, it was not late last night).

Any who, we were up and ready for our soggy day by 8 or so and enjoying breakfast (coffee, toast and bananas) in the cafe of our albergue. By 920 we had done our good morning social media stuff and we hit the trail. See ya later Casa Loncho of Oliveroa.

Boots on, packs covered, and waterproof jackets on we set out. We had pre-made some sandwiches for lunch but it looked like the sogginess of the day was going to prevent the vision of a picnic we had in mind. We threw them in my pack anyway of course and hoped for the best!

We were quickly out of our village and walking on a forest gravel road of sorts – up, down, across and up another river valley. The rain prevented much of a view and the fog hid the row of massive wind turbines that dot the ridge of the hills.

At the 4 or 5km mark we walked through the last couple of villages we would see before starting a barren stretch of approximately 12kms into Cee.

At one of these villages we learned about the ferocious Vakner said to haunt the woods we would be walking through – that’s great to know!? Where is my bear/Vakner spray? Do you act big with a Vakner like you would with a cougar? Or make loud noise and back away like a Bear? There was no Vakner tips in the guidebook.

With no reason to delay (besides being mangled by a Vakner) we got right to the barren stretch – it was foggy, humid, raining or misting (similar to a Scottish like mist) the whole time. We had our hoods up which makes it really difficult to have a conversation. So we just got up business!

While I couldn’t have my camera (aka iPhone) out much due to the rain, I was able to snap a few pics. The landscape was just awesome even in the rain. I can’t imagine how great it would look on a sunny day!

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Before long we were at the ‘distinct decent’ section that was described in our guide book. A long, big toe punishing hill that when over means you are in Cee.

Lana and I did an assortment of jogging, switchback, long stride and short stride hiking techniques to get down the hill while keeping our toes intact. Lana felt the jogging was her best bet and would often be 20-30 feet in front of me jogging almost out of sight in the thick fog. If she didn’t have her lime green cover on her backpack I am not sure I would have seen her at all. Seems the Vakner does not like jogging, so we not only got down the hill in great time and we also kept the beast at bay. Win, win!

All of a sudden we saw a road, some houses m, and if you squinted hard enough you could also see the sea in the distance. We had made it to Cee on the Sea!

We found our humble new home, Albergue Tequeron at the beginning of town and just a couple blocks from the harbour and a bunch of great cafes and checked in. The hostel lady greeted us with tea and cookies! Perfect after such a soggy day!

We were finally in a dry place. So decided to have that pre-made sandwich picnic we had planned for a sunny afternoon instead in our rain roof hostel terrace!

After that there wasn’t too much to do besides hang our stuff to dry, shower of the muddy mess that was on our legs (clearly kicked up by our amazing speed and agility on the muddy trail) and check our Cee from under the hoods of our rain jackets!

Well that ended up being a sit in a great pub and journaling, playing Camino-grams (a travelling version of Scrabble / Bananagrams of sorts that I made with paper and stamps before leaving home – too keep the weight down) and seeing what is happening in the world on iPad and iPhone. We love evenings like this!

We are up and at it again this morning with a walk to what is called Mile 0 of the Camino in Finisterre about 20km away. The forecast is 30% rain and 97% humidity… aka soggy but smiling!

Buen Camino!
Brande

Loncho, No Poncho

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Yesterday was a ‘get out of jail for free’ day on our Camino to Finisterre / Muxia, Spain …

What is that? Well, before leaving Canada, Lana and I agreed we each get one ‘get out of jail for free’ day. Basically we each get one day where we can say “neither of us walks tomorrow, we get to our planned destination together but not solely by our feet”. Lana played her card yesterday and so today instead of walking the 33km from Negreria to Oliveroa, we bussed from Negreria to Baines and walked just 8km to Oliveroa.

As of tomorrow we are on the coast when we walk which is something we are both super excited about. The most excited about of all things in the pilgrimage. So to give Lana’s feet the best chance at being able to walk the costal days, skipping one last and very long land lubber walk was in order. I am sad not to walk but my body is not complaining about the break and we made the day a great one in usual Lana and Brande fashion.

Truth be told, I have been plagued with bug bites every day that are swollen, sore and itchy and heat rash on my feet and some kind of blistering rash on my ankle. So perhaps everything happens just as it should on the Camino and this ‘get out of jail free’ card could have also been mine to play.

So here was our yesterday …

At 9am this morning we left our humble little home in Negreria, Albergue Alcerin. The owner was just the most helpful fellow ever with directions and bags and everything. He saw Lana shiver and immediately showed her where the extra blankets were and turned on the heat – the rest of us suffered but Lana was finally warm! This morning we woke to find all the power out, he was quickly on top of it and so apologetic. Definitely a great hostel in Negs.

We made our way to the bus stop just a couple blocks away and waiting for the bus that comes ‘about 9,930 or 10’ to spirit us to Baines. We were not the only pilgrims waiting – a 33km day is a tough one especially with a full pack and he forecast of rain, rain and rain.

About 30mins later we were dropped off in a baby road side village of Baines. We were pleasantly surprised to find a pharmacy (more blister bandaids for Lana, more bug stuff for me) and a little supermarket (a litre of wine in a Tetra pack – lighter than a bottle – and some tomato sauce for our pasta dinner). We also found a little cafe and accidentally had a yummy cafe con leche before heading out of town.

While walking we giggled at the weird prices here in Spain. An amazing coffee is 1.50 euros each (and came with free breakfast tapas), our 30 bus ride was 2.95 euros each but somehow a litre of wine and a container of pasta sauce was only 1.95 euros. We don’t have to understand to appreciate the approx 2 euros it would cost each of us for our homemade dinner tonight at the hostel when you add up all the ingredients. Yahoo deals!

The 8km walk was uneventful and unexciting – well the only 8km part was exciting for our bodies! It was along a secondary highway so we had to step into the ditch area a few times when big trucks and tractors passed but other than that just walk till yah get there.

We arrived at Casa Loncho around 1pm and of course carried on our tradition of toasting the day with a yummy cervaza con limon (beer with lemon cordial in it – a Spanish Radler of sorts) and some patatas fritas!

The rest of the day was quite literally spent, soaking up the sun, relaxing, journaling, laughing at our pics and adventure to date – sitting outside the pub at our hostel. We were told rain but heck no – it was 20C and awesome!

Around 5pm we ventured to the ‘kitchen’ the hostel makes available for pilgrims … aka mouse house. Oh yes, a wee mouse kept poking his head out at us wondering when we would leave so he could eat up our crumbs. Cute and gross haha

We made ourselves a penne, tomato sauce, fried garlic and chorizo sausage dinner with some baguette and white wine – all for a well spent 5euros (hey Shar that is the best 5bucks I ever spent!)

After dinner we took a little walk to take some pics of the local area.

Then it was showers, get our stuff ready for our 21km walk to Cee this morning – and for me catching up on some journaling and sketching.

We are now stepping out the door on a very rainy day. Check in from Cee!

Buen Camino
Brande

Camino Numero 2 Begins

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Yesterday we started our second Camino!

Now that we have our pilgrim’s certificate for the Camino Frances into Santiago – what better way to celebrate than doing another Camino out of Santiago.

So we started the Camino Finisterre / Muxia with our first day walking from the Santiago Cathedral to Negreria about 22km away yesterday. This Camino will finish on the coast instead of a cathedral. It is much shorter at just 116km or about 5 days walking than the Camino Frances which must be 100km by foot but can be as much as 800km (we did 235km).

Full disclosure – we look super tired in this photo! We had an awful sleep. Our fellow hostel peeps were up at all hours and the sound from the plaza outside was loud well into the night too – many people were done their Camino’s and on they way home the next day, so there were in full celebration mode. Very few are as outlandish (like less than 10%) as us and decide to keep on keeping on out to the coast another 100+km.

We stopped for breaky before even leaving Santiago and I will admit I didn’t stop at one cafe con leche yesterday morning. I had to have 2 right out of the gate … to get out of the gate! We also enjoyed some eggs and bacon which were especially tasty now that we had a secret stash of pepper in my back pack. Spaniards use salt only, maybe paprika it seems. Pepper is hard to find and when we did find it, it became a worthy enough item for carrying in my pack everyday!

After breakfast around 11am we started the Camino, here are some sights from our walk out of Santiago and before our afternoon break ….

The pre-break morning ended with a 2.8km climb up and out of one village and into another on first gravel or forest track then asphalt road. We did a little experiment to see how we would come out of from such a hill with a little pre and post hill selfie photo shoot. In the following order check out our pre-hill selfie, pics of the hill which does not do justice to just how steep this sucker really was, and post-hill selfie.

Why yes that post-hill selfie includes a vino blanco! After a hill like that we deserved a break and stopped in at a cafe called Poncho in the village of Transmonte. A wee, totally cute little cafe just 8km from our destination!

After a great rest of wine and chocolate (we read in a guidebook you should eat high energy food like chocolate on breaks – we take the guide books very seriously!), we headed out to finish our day and spend the evening in Negreria. I transition from socks to compressions again for this last stage. Helps the feet and looks quite fashionable!

Our final 8km into our town for the night was a great walk. We passed through a small village Ponte Maceira with a medieval bridge that was very cool.

We saw a few other interesting sights as we completed our walk for the day.

We arrived our next home Alcerin Albergue at around 400 ready for a nice evening of journaling, wine and pizza!

Off to Oliveroa now, just 33km away!

Brande

In Line for Santiago

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Yesterday we made it to Santiago and were given these awesome bits of paper that prove we are pilgrims! Pilgrim!! Ok we already knew by the dust, sweat and blisters we had that status but something ‘official’ made it much more real somehow!

Our day began around 830am yesterday after alone, last morning – we had the hostel room all to our selves and that is such a novelty we couldn’t resist enjoying it. Most of the the pilgrims left before 6am to get to Santiago for the noon Mass in English, but walking 2 hours in the pitch back is not my idea of a good time. We also needed a bit of time on wifi so before we left we chilled in the hostel living room sipping instant coffee (well sugar, fake cream and only some coffee from the taste of it) for a vending machine. We would need a real coffee room to replace this taste from memory.

On our way we were pleasantly surprised that it had poured rain most of the night – everything was fresh and the chances it was going to rain on us decreased. We expected a lot of pilgrims this final day but there was a lot fewer than most days. It’s funny how we hate too many pilgrims on ‘our path’ but also want just enough to confirm we are going the right direction.

Our way out of town was delayed by a brief photo shoot with our pilgrimages’s spirit animal – the snail.

Before stopping for our first coffee (real coffee made by humans not machine), we had some great path to cover.

Just before 10am and at about 3.4km we were ready for our coffee and a little warm up – while not as cold as the day before, the air had a bit of a bite and the clouds were keeping us pretty mindful that it could rain or mist, at least, any time. We had our shells and pack covers at the ready.

Leaving Cafe Amenal, we continued forward with some caffeine in our shuffle and started to feel like we were getting close now. The path started to provide lots of little photo opportunities for pilgrims and people were asking other people and groups to snap their pics, which wasn’t the case on the trail till today. Some people say the Camino should not include technology, but I say let’s all remember it’s ‘the Way, your Way’. And as a scrapbooker there is no way I could leave my camera (aka phone) at home!

We stopped again around lunch (at about 9.5km into our 22km day) for a glass of wine and to eat the amazing sandwiches we had prepared the night prior. We had found a salad (quite literally) of the local Arzua cheese which is amazing creamy goodness – so added some meat and baguette for an awesome lunch!

Our timing was impeccable – while we were inside at Casa de Amancio it poured rain hard, like I mean buckets of rain, for about 20mins and then didn’t rain again for the rest of the day. Not sure how but my wine and sandwich tasted even better watching the rain cascade off the glass roof that I was under!

We continued on our way that afternoon, again seeing many more pilgrim associated monuments and structures than noticed in prior days.

Coming into Santiago on sore feet and walking through a regular, old city with the cathedral almost completely hidden by scaffolding and sheets was a bit anticlimactic. We knew this would be what to expect but you secretly wish for maybe a parade or a banner or a marching band least?

We snapped a few pics and then went and got on the 2hours + line up to get our pilgrim’s certificate. It was cold and our feet were sore and wow that line barely moved and no one got the ‘personal space is important’ memo but we happy to be there.

Finally with our pilgrim certificate in hand, and a need to get off here barking dogs we paused for a quick photo shoot and heading to our albergue for the night.

While relaxing in our room we enjoyed an awesome view of the cathedral from our window and some refreshments and snacks. It feels so good to arrive at your next home for the night – so we never rush the getting our bags sorted and beds set up process.



At around 730 we headed out to see the old city that surrounds the famous Santiago cathedral – what a beautiful place. To give our feet a break we decided to take a total tourist trap train around the city. Some good info and we were totally laughing at ourselves the whole time.



After our Chu-Chu ride about the city, it was after 9pm and we were starving for supper – oddly this is the time everyone eats supper in Spain so the restaurants were fun and busy. We found a great place without too long of a wait and enjoyed an amazing pilgrim’s meal!

So full and so tired, we heading back to our albergue, The Last Stamp, for a good night’s sleep.

Well the good night’ sleep didn’t exactly pan out, but we are up and at em again this morning anyway – this gal is drinking two coffees before we even hit the road! So tired but still so happy to be here.

Today we start our next Camino – 5 days to Fisterre and Muxia (the Spanish coast)!

Buen Camino!
Brande

Pedrouzo Please

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Yesterday was our easiest day yet on the trail, from Arzua to Pedrouzo in about 20km and just under 30,000 FitBit steps.

We had all day and not much trail to cover so we took our time and just enjoyed every bit of the Way.

Up at 630am when our hostel roomies started packing up their gear. How they got up so early after going to bed (aka turning out the light) at midnight in our room, will never know. I am a pumpkin by 9am and dog tired when I wake these days. These other pilgrims have figured something out I haven’t yet – was there a memo? Regardless I was up and excited to say goodbye to our hostel and hello to the trail!

We were on the path by a few mins after 8am and pleasantly surprised to see we had clear skies and a beautiful full moon still in view before the sun broke the horizon. Wow!


We couldn’t resist a village side stand selling bananas and other fresh fruit first thing in the morning to tide us over to our first coffee. Sometimes things are just too cute and perfect to pass up!

As the path climbed up those clear skies turned into either fog or maybe we were actually walking in a cloud – not sure which. In any case the fogginess made it hard to see much beyond the next 20-30 steps on the trail and dropped the temp from the expected 17C in the morning to 8C. We were freezing but it was beautiful so we loved it.


Around 1015am At the first awesome cafe we saw Casa Calzada in A Calzada (approx 9.4 km into the day) we popped in for our breakfast. It was only outside seating so we were super cold but a hot cafe con leche and breakfast tastes delicious no matter where and how! Mmmm



We didn’t daly to long. We were up and on the trail as soon as we finished, but wow it was cold. Now our fingers were cold and we were talking about how we will want this temp back when the cloud and fog does clear and we are roasting all afternoon.

Still chilled and in no rush, we decided another coffee was in order to chase the chills away. At Lino Cafe and just 1.5km later we had another coffee. Both of us cradling the cup like a heating pad for our fingers. We found it particularly amusing that the napkins in this second cafe featured a snail cartoon – perfect, today was a snail day for us for sure!


Finally warmer inside and more alert with 2 coffees in us, we were strolling with a spring in our step. In fact, we walked right though the fog lifting and the sun coming out and right into Pedrouzo arriving at about 130pm.

Before heading to the hostel to check in we stopped to toast a great day with our first Sangria this region boasts. We found an amazing cafe called Taste the Way! What a place, offers food and drink from all the regions of the Camino – we loved it. Oh and wow Sangria here is like sweet grape juice – doesn’t taste a thing like wine like it does at home. But we both know it is and some Brandy so we kept it to one glass or these wobbly legs would be eve wobblier.

We also added the Cheeses of the Way to our celebration and ate cheese, apples, nuts, rustic bread and Sangria for the afternoon. Delicious!


The rest of the day was spent sitting in the sun relaxing, journaling, and just enjoying not walking. Here are a few highlights from our afternoon and evening …

We went back to The Taste of the Way for dinner and enjoyed an awesome pilgrim’s meal with some local food choices. I could not resist trying the backed Scallop the Camino Way – the scallop shell is the symbol of the Camino. Delicious! Bread crumbs, cheese, ham and scallop.

Well that was yesterday and now we are off to begin today’s walk to Santiago, another pleasant 20km. For many people this is the end, for us it’s the end of this Camino St Frances and the start of our Camino Finisterre/Muxia!

Buen Camino!
Brande