Coast to Coast Day 10 Reeth to Richmond

Day 10 of the Coast to Coast done! A 17km stroll from quiet and oh so quaint Reeth to the bustling, steeped in history Richmond.

We kicked off from The Black Bull Hotel after an underwhelming breakfast – we are spoiled with all the fancy BnB breakfasts so a hotel breakfast seems so boring. No fancy plates and serving where, no sweet proprietor asking you questions and giving route suggestions, etc.

From Reeth we had a mix of foot paths and touch of road to take us out of the hamlet area. All super flat to wake up the joints. We were trying to pass and stay ahead of a very large Coaster group – made easy when they took a wrong turn at the River Swale Bridge had to circle back. Oops!

About 40mins into the day, we passed the Marrick Prior built in the 1100s and were keen to check that out as a little micro stop. It has been turned into an Outdoor Activity Centre with no public access so we could not go inside but it looked pretty neat and massive!

No matter, we would be getting to know the Nuns who worked there pretty well soon – our next milestone was up and up the Nun Steps. A series of over 375 stone steps they built to get up to the top of the next ridge. More like a stepped stone pathway and wow much have been so much work!

Despite not even being hot out yet and the steps being in shade through what’s called Steps Forest, they were work and ended in even more grassy hill to climb at the top. Blood pumping and sweat dripping now. Let’s go!

Our next milestone of the day was Elaine’s Farmhouse Kitchen at Nun Cote Farm & Campsite. We had heard she made amazing food – so instead of ordering a packed lunch from the hotel, I called Elaine the night before and she agreed to make us 4 ham and cheese sammies that we could pick up as we walked by their farm in the morning.

We hit the hamlet of Marske at about 1030 and made our way to Elaine’s farm to pick them up. A short 10 min detour off the path. She even had some chips and cold drinks we could add. If we weren’t so fresh off breakfast, I would have definitely had a tea and scone – her baking looked amazing! A few other Coasters were there having a treat and tea.

Leaving out her back gate, we immediately rejoined the Coast to Coast and made our way to the next milestone in Marrick a few more miles ahead.

Marrick is another hamlet and boasts the St Edmunds Church which was built in the 11 century and they host an extensive honesty box for walkers. Everything from water to chocolate biscuits (bars) to crisps (chips) and even plasters (bandaids) and supports (tensor bandages) all for donation the church. They even have a little machine you can self-tap your donation amount with a credit card!

We each grabbed a little treat, tapped the credit card, and then had our lunch break right there in the church grounds with a couple other walkers. As we sat a number of other walkers came through to enjoy the honest box – they are the ultimate trail magic!

From Marrick, we were down to our last milestone of the day – Richmond. With some pep in the step from a great lunch break and hopes we might catch a movie tonight, we set off at a great pace. It’s like we have been doing this for days and we found our groove.

Quick work is an understatement. We had great paths underwood with some fields, forest track (the first forest we have actually walk through to be honest) and farm track making for quick walking. Not to many climbs but some undulation which is perfect for walkers to mix it up a bit on the ole hips!

We arrived in Richmond to our home for the night, The Buck – looking much better from the outside than sadly it offered inside.

For those who like a short story…

  • Date: Wednesday June 25 2025
  • Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
  • Day: 10 of 17
  • To/From: Reeth to Richmond
  • Start/Finish time: 921am / 3pm
  • Distance: 17.1km (Hiiker)
  • Steps: 29,859
  • Terrain: a bit of road (including two, long and steep descents into towns – ouch), lots of fields and gates, and 375 stone steps built by nuns!
  • Weather: humid but not too hot at about 17C overcast with maybe 4 mins of rain
  • Breaky: avocado toast and scrambled eggs with tea
  • Lunch n Snacks: delicious ham and cheese sandwich’s from Elaines Farmhouse Kitchen, chocolate, fruit
  • Dinner: pizza
  • Tonight’s home away from home: The Buck in Richmond (ugh unfortunately it great at all)
  • Mood: great, another fantastic day
  • Body: feeling good, just need this baby two to get the ‘get in line’ memo
  • Highlight: a movie!
  • Lowlight: The Buck Inn
  • Deep thoughts: it can’t all be roses, but even dandelions are better than cow plops

After a quick freshen up, we headed out to check out this little city and see a movie! The Station is an old Train Station transformed into a cinema, art gallery, brew hall, cafe and more. We saw How To Train Our Dragon and had the place to ourselves. Feet up, popcorn in!

That’s us kicking off Day 11 – check in soon!

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 9 Keld to Reeth

Day 9 in the books! A fantastic low route ramble between hamlets and a stop for tea!

We left the Keld Lodge after an amazing cooked breakfast – today was only 17.5km of mostly flat walking so we were in no rush at all. A few chats with the staff, an extra cup of coffee or tea or two. A great, relaxed good morning.

During breakfast we had been closely watching the weather across the valley views to see just what she might get up to today. We were prepped for the predicted 95% chance of rain ALL day with gusting winds up to 35km/h but as we watched, a change was a coming! By the time we wrapped up breakfast, it has moved from dark sideways rain to misty sun showers. No way, could we be so lucky? Yup!

By the time we were out the door, no waterproof pants required (but tucked just in our packs close at hand as to not risk weather’s wrath) and just our waterproof jackets on for the mist that was still coming down. No one loved walking in waterproofs head to toe – so we were feeling pretty blessed for the twist!

Off we go! A very short road walk and then we were on fantastic little path farther down and across the valley. Lots of other walkers leaving the Keld Lodge this morning so we adjusted our pace to have the path to ourselves accordingly.

As always on the Coast to Coast, what goes down must come up, we were soon hoofing it up a pretty decent incline out of the deep valley to shoulder the hills. A tough but short slog that was reward with good views and a waterfall and our favorite.. a bridge!

As the sun started to peak out a bit more, the valley opened up and we began our walk along the River Swale. Which we call the River Swell because it’s just so pretty.

The Swell River would keep us company most of the path and right into Reeth today. We were technically walking some of the Swaledale Valley walk as it overlaps the Coast to Coast Low Route (which we were on today). We chose the Low Route for a chance to see some of the hamlets dotting the landscape, a chance for a lunch stop and ultimately avoid the wind gusts expected on top of the wide ridge walk. Shar was caught looking longingly at the ridge lines above once in a while …

There was so much to look at between the bridges, the changes in the river, adorable little lambs and a lot of old stone structures – we assume most were houses at one point when this valley was super busy with led mining far in the past but that’s a guess.

At about mid-day and mid-point on today’s path we walked into the lovely hamlet of Gunnerside and found our way to the Ghyllfoot Tearoom for lunch. What a cute little cafe, and our host was lovely. We could not resist having a cream tea – scone with clotted cream and jam. Yummy!

After lunch, and Shar getting maximum pets in for the two Scotty Dogs (Archie and Max) on the Cafe’s patio, we continued on our way. The trek out of Gunnarside was up and up and up to above the valley. Longer slog than expected but we did have some clotted cream to work off!

Once up above the valley, we enjoyed really easy walking on a soft grass path for quite some time on the edge of the moor with sheep for company and great views. We passed through a couple more very quiet hamlets before making our walk down, down and down back to beside the River Swale on our last few kilometers into Reeth.

One highlight at the end of the day … I did mention we liked bridges … was the swing bridge just as you come into Reeth. Technically we did not need to cross this one but we could not resist giving it a go, just to come back again. The water at this part of the river can rise to a terrifying 3meters in 20mins according to the info board by the bridge!

Arrived in Reeth, we popped into a couple of small shops that were still open – the post office / local store and a crafters cooperative – then made our way for an end of day pint!

For those who like it short …

  • Date: Tuesday June 24 2025
  • Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
  • Day: 9 of 17
  • To/From: Keld / Reeth
  • Start/Finish time: 945am / 415pm
  • Distance: 20.0km (Hiiker)
  • Steps: 30,642
  • Terrain: some road, some grassy paths, lots of fields and rocky paths, a load of gates!
  • Weather: cool 15c with some wind ( a few gusts) and most no rain
  • Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: amazing jam and clotted cream scone and Yorkshire tea at Ghyllfoot Tearoom in Gunnarside!
  • Dinner: chicken parm and a pint
  • Tonight’s home away from home: Black Bull Hotel in Reeth
  • Mood: great, fantastic trail day
  • Body: feels good, the blisters starting misbehaving again and I have more heat rash than I care for but overall great
  • Highlight: tearoom for lunch!
  • Lowlight: the large groups of Coasters that left at the same time as us this morning making it too busy to kick off
  • Deep thoughts: don’t get so comfortable that you forget to look around, to appreciate, to pay attention

Well that’s us, off on Day 10 – check in from Richmond our next destination!

Brande