One Bridge Too Far

Yesterday was another great day on the Camino for this duo. We walked from Pamplona to Puenta La Reina which is just over 23km or 39,289 Fitbit steps.

Our day started as usual it seems with poor sleep, too many pilgrim body sounds recalled from the night prior, some white toast and jam and very strong coffee. The life of these pilgrims so far but we are still loving it!

We left our humble abode at 8:15am and commenced the day with a 5km walk though Pamplona. Along the way we had our cameras ready to capture a few sights:

When we hit the next town Cizur Menor we had already added another stamp to our Pilgrim Passport (thank you Universidad de Navarre), discovered how amazing and light you feel switching from boots to runners, and had a few laughs. Not bad for 5km!

When we hit a section of path that required boots, we would take a welcome break and switch them up. We were light as feathers with our sneakers – ok not really light with our packs still on but that’s what we kept telling ourselves. Especially after we ate our bananas about mid morning and further lightened our load.

Around 930 or so the proof of the ‘there is a big climb after Puenta La Reina’ came into view. This was all the talk at the albergue (hostel) and we were a bit confused. Sure the elevation map looked like we had a high blip but so much talk was a bit much especially when you compare anything to the climb of day one. As came around a bend in Cizor Menor we saw the windmill hill we were going up and over. It was a good one for sure and worth some pilgrim chatter but nothing these two pilgrims couldn’t handle.

Up and up we went over some amazing trail, largely across or beside farmer’s fields. Many that were wheat already harvested but some were all sunflowers. Had we walked maybe a few weeks ago I think it would have been a sea of yellow but by end of August, the sunflowers were scorched from the sun and not quite as picturesque. I felt for them – I was feeling the same way in the hot Spanish sun!

The highlight was coming over the ridge to find one of the most photographed pilgrim monuments on the Camino. We were pretty high up at this point (about 900m) as high as we had to climb that day. The wind was harsh and the wind turbines were all around us loud and looming. Once in a while you had to brace agains a gust of wind. But this did not prevent a photo opportunity for us gals! Including a reenactment of my favourite part of the movie, The Way. If you have see it, you will know instantly this scene. If you haven’t seen it, it’s amazing and you should!

The afternoon was down hill literally for the most part with some small ups – but generally easy walking and the weather continued to hold off any rain and give us long pockets of sunshine!

Mid afternoon when the tummies where grumbling for chow we stopped in for a couple of coffees in a town called Uterga. Well it turned into a massive lunch (I finally got some eggs and served with fries, come on! yahoo!) and a small ice cold cervaza. Mmmm

We walked the last 6km into Puenta La Reina maybe a little slower after that amazing meal but it was fun all the same! As we came through towns we took some pics and as we came by churches I took a peek inside. They are a welcome break from the heat and give you a peace boost!

Following a short back track (couple blocks) as I read the map wrong we were at our albergue. This is my second time in a week messing the map – not bad for being tired in mind and body and distracted and excited by all the new stuff around me. Not sure our feet agree lol

An evening of showers, journaling on the amazing terrace in the evening sun, a cold pint and some pilgrim’s food wrapped up the day for us.

We have a twin room tonight – so just me and Lana in our little individual twin beds with an amazing little balcony. So we will get much needed sleep (that’s so exciting I may not sleep) and a chance to air our ‘smelling like backpack’ clothes in the evening breeze.

Another amazing day on the Camino.

Buen Camino!
Brande

The Zubiri Hustle

Yesterday on the Camino de Santiago we walked from Roncesvalles to Zubiri. A 21.9km (37,779 steps) easy jaunt really when compared to the day prior!

Our day started at about 530am when a number of the pilgrims in our 200 person dorm had their phone alarms go off. Most heard it and turned them off, some perhaps could not hear their alarm over the cacophony of snoring and other sleep noises being made. No matter how early we were up though, Lana and I didn’t have breaky booked till 730 so I laid in bed and listened to my audio book and journaled some. Hard life, right!

At 7am when our bunk mates (a couple from Spain) in the other bunk bed of our 2 bunk bed pod departed, I rolled outta bed. Took my time repacking my pack, getting ready, basically being lazy but was ready to roll for 725. Lana was not too far behind and we made our way down to the first floor (stairs first thing in the morning is always a good pilgrim’s body check) and over to the cafe serving breakfast.

On our way I took a couple early morning pics of our hostel that is part of the massive monastery that is basically the whole of Roncesvalles. A tourist info office and a couple cafes were added to the place or make it a village and to support us pilgrims.

Breakfast is not really an apt description actually – it was one piece of dry toast, butter, peach jam, fake orange juice and a partial coffee with milk. I might need to start carrying around eggs for some protein! I was hoping for those yummy cheese and egg omelette the Spanish traditional breaky calls for! Maybe the next albergue (hostel)?

Following breakfast we hit the path and had an awesome first couple of hours weather wise. Stopped in the next town and got some snacks and apples for our packs and continue on our sunshine way!

We loved the little villages we walked through in the morning and were snapping photos like crazy tourists not pilgrims! Soon though at least for me my camera (aka my iPhone) had to be put away as a massive thunder and lightning storm was rolling in fast!

Not too long after this photo the wind picked up, it got super dark and the rain came down hard. We were tucked into our shell jackets and had our rain covers on our packs and kept strolling. Both of us have green covers for our packs so I feel we look liked a couple Ninja Turtles really both for our agility (haha) and our speed (no jokes). It was pretty awesome to walk head down against the rain and see the sky light up from your peripheral vision and then a huge crack of lighting right after. We stayed close to a lady walking with an umbrella – insurance really that the lighting would hit her not us. Very pilgrim of us!

About an hour later we hit another village and decided a cafe con leche (coffee with milk) was in order in this weather. No kidding by the time I came out of the cafe with the coffees Lana was siting outside in pure sunshine drying out her stuff. The change in weather again was awesome. We both draped our shells and rain covers on chairs, took off a couple layers and relaxed. Best sunshine coffee ever! Now up and on our way again!

A bunch of sunshine walking complete with up hill slogging and treacherous down hill treading and finally some wrangling on perfect paths with awesome conversation we arrived in Zubiri. Our final destination of the day and Hazel Sticks albergue.

After some much needed foot care for Lana and a freshen up, we made our way to the cafe next door and enjoyed a couple of Estella Galicia local delicious beer and some fritas patatas (French fries) served well what must be a local style with ketchup and mayo! Mmm

Today we are just about to head out for a walk into Pamplona – the city made famous by Ernest Hemmingway and the Runnning of the Bulls. So excited!

Brande

Final Prep and Packing for the Camino

With just 3 sleeps left to departure for Paris then train onto St. Jean Pied de Port to start the first of 3 Camino trails things are starting to get very real – and I feel like I am taking over the house with all of the final prep bits!

My scrapbook / craft studio has become a large display case for what will go in my backpack on Friday morning and for the next 36 sleeps after live on my back day to day, kilometer after kilometer. Everything is laid in a specific order (to me). Rolled where final decision has been made and that item is for sure coming – and only folded if I am unsure if its the “one” that gets to come with me. Post-it notes where I still need to grab the stuff from drawers or the laundry room or the drying rack.

My scrapbook / craft table has become a language lesson centre with all of my language cheat sheets spread out and ready for me to add to as and when I hear a word or phase in French, Spanish or Portuguese from my playbacks I didn’t write down yet. I am starting to get the languages down pat (well good enough anyway) but my “accent” for each is sounding oddly blended. I am rolling Rs and sh’ing Sh all over the place, even when I don’t need to. I am hoping that the nice people of the countries we visit will just find me eccentric and dramatic but still understand me. (like y’all do here in Canada!)

My kitchen counter has become a language playback display case. Each day and sometimes more than once a day, I grab one of the language lesson playbacks and throw the ear plugs in and practice. My morning run today was Portuguese. I was French on the way to work and back, and am about to get some Spanish in this evening. I have to return all of these to the library on Friday morning before we depart on a jet plane – so packing in my final refreshers while I can. Muy bien!

Finally, my poor walls have also been dragged into this prep mayhem with a large (think movie poster size) packing list in red Sharpie taking up some serious real estate. What is certain is written out, and what is still up for final decision is written and circled. Thurs night (last night home) I will compare the poster list to what is on the floor and cross the items off accordingly with a black Sharpie if they are there and make the final cut for the journey. { If any of my staff are reading this this post, you now have proof that I subject myself to the sharpie and post-it poster ordeal too – it’s not just a special torture I save for you all. LOL } 

By Thursday night all of these spaces and places will be returned to normal, and the house will get one final deep clean from me … leaving my hubby with a beautiful and back to normal home while I am off putting miles on with Lana!

Weird. I couldn’t help thinking this morning that it was my last Tuesday waking up in my own bed until October. I think of all back-home comforts I will miss, the top of my list is my hubby (of course, big style) and the second is my comfy, amazing, no other pilgrims snoring or making other gaseous sounds, bed bug free, king size bed.

It’s the simple things in life, you know?

Brande

PS tres duerme

 

Merely 3 Sleeps (Packing List)

Wow, wow, wow! Someone pinch me I cannot believe that this epic African adventure begins in just 3 sleeps. There is no way I am sleeping tonight. The excitement is crazy in this house and I am way to energetic to sleep.

I wonder though if it works like Christmas? You know when your parents told you the faster you go to bed the faster Santa will come! I think I will test this theory tonight and hope that my usual dreams of Kilimanjaro do not wake me from a dead sleep wondering if I remembered to pack socks, undies or my water bottle!  But then if I go to sleep and it does come fast, then the faster it comes the faster it will be over and then … STOP Brande! Enjoy, embrace, breathe and take it all in!

Ok well enough with that spiral of excitement with a side of worry, here is what I accomplished today in prep for departure … I packed for the tourist part of the African adventure (the other 4 weeks we are away).

packing for Africa

Everything you need for 4 weeks in a 65 litre pack? No problem!

For anyone doing a 2+ week trip in a warm weather climate, here is the packing list that has treated me so well for so many vacations to date and is exactly what I used for this African vacation as well!

Upper:

Rules: everything should be plain, solid coloured or an easy print. Think about bringing stuff that you could toss your 1 scarf on with (see below) to change the look technically getting you another outfit without actually changing. Also, everything on top must match everything you bring for bottoms so really think about the fabrics you bring and the colours. BUT DON’T OVER THINK!  Oh and keep the cleavage and the spaghetti straps to a minimum, we don’t want to draw too much attention to the goods.

  • 3 T-Shirts
  • 1 Long Sleeve T-Shirt
  • 1 Sweater
  • 4 Tank tops
  • 1-2 technical shirts (tank, tee or long sleeve – these are good for when you are working out, hiking, jogging, or even to wear under a wet suit)

Lower:

Rules: everything again should be solid coloured, this is not the time to bring out those stripped crazy pants! Also don’t go too short on the shorts, tourists should dress modestly. We want to see the sights not be the sight to see! 

  • 1-2 Shorts
  • 1 Jean
  • 1 Comfy / Travel Pant
  • 1-2 Sporty Pant or Capri (think of what you want to wear driving for hours, and also good for the plane, and for sight-seeing)

Full Body:

  • 1-2 Summer, Simple Dress (apply the same rules you would for the Upper above – plain, solid coloured or easy print and must match your scarf and your sweater)

Water:

  • 1 Bathing suit you like that you could hang out in all day (for any of you who groaned when you read the fact that you need a bathing suite, email me and I will remind you that you are beautiful and amazing!)
  • 1 bathing suit that could work under a wet suit or active water activities (not necessary if you can do it all in the 1 bathing suit you are bringing but I tend to bring a a robust bikini top and little shorts plus my nice bathing suite for just pool and beach time)
  • 1 Bathing suit cover up

Other:

  • Scarf or Pashmina (think simple, solid or easy print again – you should be able to put this on with ANYTHING you have brought with you in the Upper, Lower and Full Body sections above)
  • Wind stopper / Water resistant jacket
  • Flip flips or sandals or flat closed toe shoe like Tom’s that can be worn with everything above, get wet, and worn out (no crazy bling, they had better not cause you blisters, and break them in before you go!)
  • Runners or light hikers for when you need to get your sweat on
  • Pajamas (top, bottom, comfy sleep bra)

Unmentionables:

  • 2 sports bras (hopefully some of your Uppers above allow for this comfort, and for around the hotel in pajamas, etc)
  • 1 nice light coloured bra
  • 1 nice dark coloured bra
  • 10-12 undies (if you have light coloured Lower stuff be sure to bring a mix of light and dark colours)
  • 1 slip if needed for your dresses OR 1 slip shorts (little slim fitting shorts made of slip material so you get the slip and avoid thigh chafe)
  • Socks for those shoes you brought

Toiletries:

  • Keep this simple – before you go, one day put everything you use to get ready, in the morning, every medication you take, and what you use to get ready for bed at night in a basket – put all that stuff in a cosmetic bag and voila! (Do NOT even think about packing that face mask or night cream you have been dying to try with you – you will not use it, it will be a waste of room and weight in your bag.)
  • Sunscreen … I should not have to specifically mention this because you should be wearing this everyday but if you do not … start and pack some!
  • Extra, travel specific meds (Think about any possible issues you would like to be able to deal with quickly without the hassle of foreign medical services. Bladder infection, traveler’s tummy, etc)

Might be worth thinking about:

  • Some laundry soap so you can hand wash and dry anything on the list until or in absence of a Laundromat
  • Some little and big zip locks, just a few and just in case
  • A thin bag for your dirty clothes to keep it separate from your clean stuff
  • Hat (something that goes with the Upper and Lower above)
  • Travel towel (for your water activities)
  • Toe nail polish
  • Book(s) to read
  • Journal and pen to document your adventure
  • Handbag / courier bag – small but big enough for camera, snacks, water, etc. but not so big that your hips or shoulder aches from carrying it!
  • Camera, more camera cards than you think, charger
  • Sunglasses

From my backpack to yours!

Brande

PS: Did you know 3 sleeps is only 72 hours? eeeeeeek so excited!

Only 4 Sleeps (Packing Rules)

Ok this is getting really real!

This time next week we will already on our 2nd day of our 7 day trek up and over Mount Kilimanjaro… and I just did a little scream of excitement.  Well to be honest there is also a simmering scream of some nervous butterflies working their queasy magic on my tummy too. Every day up till now I have been super excited. Today I started to get nervous. Yes the nerves could be because of the snow on the Mountain, could be because there are some inherent risks with such a climb, but it is more than likely just because I want everything to go as well as it can for all of us travelling and I tend to worry about this more and for everyone.

Getting nervous – needed a distraction – stop thinking about it – finish packing!

I am lucky, the art of packing is pretty easy for me. I have adopted a few rules from people much smarter than me over the years and made up a few of my own. They may work for you as well in future, take a peek:

  1. Never pack a top (shirt, tank, long sleeve) that does not match EVERY one of your bottoms (pants, skirt, shorts). If it does not get along with everyone, it does not get invited to the backpack party!
  2. Never pack that one item you have never worn but you are certain it would be perfect for this trip. Nope, its not. Even if you pack it, you will never actually wear it. Well you might try it on but it will never leave your hostel, hotel, B&B, tent, etc. Trust me. Leave it at home or better yet pass that thing on to someone deserving feel the relief.
  3. If you do not love how something makes you feel at home you will hate it even more abroad. Travelling is about absorbing all around you and is not about adjusting and worrying about wardrobe. It is not the time to try and suffer through those skinny jeans that really don’t make you happy, or the bra strap that never stays up.
  4. Do always bring a very basic scarf that can go with anything you bring as a fashion accessory, to keep the neck warm when you get that weird sore throat that seems to always happen on planes, and to cover those shoulders and any cleavage if you are visiting any churches or the such. Also a scarf is great to put on the seat when you are wearing shorts or skirt so your bare skin is not on that well used train cushion.
  5. Do always toss in a couple of Ziploc style bags of different sizes and a couple of those bag closure clips in your backpack. Nothing worse than buying that awesome peanut snack mixture and having no way to close it securely before you put it in your pack to roll about with your nice clean clothes that need to stay that way!
  6. Of course, roll all clothes – do not fold!
  7. Put the big stuff in first and fill in the open gaps in the bag with the little rolled clothing. Put the heavy stuff at the bottom of the bag.
  8. Never leave anything to memory. We have all said to ourselves “I will toss in my ___ the morning before I go” and then you get on the plane and you have that sinking, awful feeling cause you know you forgot! If you need to put something into your bag at the last minute or when the laundry is done or whatever, write it on a post it and put that on or by your bag. Replace the post it with the actual item before you leave and voila.
  9. Charge it all before you go to the max. Camera, phone, Kobo, Kindle, iPod or whatever get it to 100% so you are not worried about getting a place where you can charge it more than you are about soaking in the amazing place you have traveled to.
  10. If you absolutely cannot imagine the trip without an item – do not leave it to chance in your checked bags. Carry that thing or those things on to the plane. I am carrying all my Mount Kilimanjaro essentials with me on the plane, and wearing my boots as well.
  11. Final trick, if you forgot it – it wasn’t mean to come! Ok this does not apply to important medications and deodorant but I mean that shirt, or those blingy flip flops, etc. Don’t sweat it. Embrace it!
  12. Absolute, final trick, If you are that heart broken that you forgot it… its a sign you are meant to buy it when you get there! Come on it could be your souvenir! Ha ha ha 🙂
Osprey packing

My day pack for Mount Kilimanjaro with everything I need for the Mountain (carrying this guy on the plane) .. with post it notes for items I still need to add.

Ok back to packing and being mindful of my own “rules”!

Brande

PS: only, for real, no joke, can you believe it, 4 sleeps left!

Just 5 Sleeps

What would you be doing just 5 sleeps from your departure for a crazy, amazing 6 weeks in Africa that includes a week on a mountain?

Well if you are me  – you are doing everything BUT thinking about the fact that it in my mind is basically a blizzard on top of Mount Kilimanjaro right now, Yes I am for real. It is snowing in Africa! Everything above what will be our 4th camp is snow, snow, snow. Check it out if you don’t believe me: Mountain Forecast

The upside is the scree on the summit will be frozen so that will make it better for traction on our 20 hour summit – but if scree can freeze so can we! Good thing for fleece, merino wool and our thick cozy Canadian blood! Mr. Hemingway was not kidding with his Snows of Africa prose. Well played Ernest, well played.

So here is how I am distracting myself from the snow with 5 sleeps to go:

Toiletries and Med kit for Africa

Sorting out the toiletries for Africa tourist time, for Kilimanjaro climbing and our medical kits for the mountain and in general.

water bladders

Washing our water bladders to make sure they are fresh and clean for Kilimanjaro. We will have a hard enough time finding good drinking water; we don’t need to bring germs from home.

Kilimanjaro Gear

Packing for Kilimanjaro – what fits in this laundry basket can be compressed and fit into my 35L Osprey Backpack of awesome. Carrying that bad boy on the plane so I have what I need for the mountain – just in case my bag is lost!

travel file

Preparing the travel file. Making sure we have copies of all our itineraries, e-tickets, flights, confirmations, vouchers, copies of passport, insurance and more. The bible of our trip really.

Over and above all this, about a b-zillion texts back and forth with Lana to find accommodations along the Garden Route, in Cape Town, and in Durban, South Africa. We were successful booking Durban (our rental home has a beautiful deck on the ocean and there are dolphins and whales in the bay every morning, squeeeek excited).

We are so far unsuccessful in booking Garden Route and Cape Town but there are a whopping 4 sleeps left to book this stuff. So I am sure I will not lose any sleep over it …. (said no one in my family ever!)

Brande

PS: Five, 5, Cinc, Pet, Fem, Vijf, Quinque, Cinco, Tano .. sleeps!