Day 7 was fantastic! Today we walked the 20km from Orton to Kirkby Stephen and it was such a smooth day – from path to views to how the body is feeling after 7 days on trail!
We left The George Hotel after a nice continental breakfast at about 830am and popped by the local shop just up the block for provisions for the day. The lady running the shop was so super kind – we even scored some fresh made baguette sandwiches! Yummy.
Not wanting to back track to pick up the Coast to Coast Path via the road, I downloaded the local public bridlepath map for the area and we found a nice short village walk, little lane tucked very closely between two house, and a couple of fields – the mainstay of today’s walk – and we were back on the path just after 9am! Few, I was either going to get it right and we would join in Scarside (one word) or totally wrong and we would end up back in Scar Side (two words). Seriously, no other names avail?
This must be the hour to start off each day! We saw the outline of more Coasters in and among the trails in the distance than we have any other day so far.
- Seattle – a very nice guy from, you guessed it, Seattle who also booked with Contours the same company we booked with so we will see him all about the trip. He has done quite a few of the long distance paths solo and with his wife.
- The ‘Couple of Couples’ – two English couples we met out of the gate Day 1 that are walking to Stephen Kirkby. These couples have done many, many other long distance walks around UK and were great to chat with as we are already thinking about what walk to do next! We had the pleasure of running into the Couple of Couples much of the day today.
- In the distance we also glimpsed Doc. An older gentleman who is wild camping and just quietly present in his turtle neck tech shirt and waterproof pants everyday. Doesn’t say much but will quietly reply a ‘hi’ and smile if you kick it off. So I do! Each time! He reminds me of a pensive doctor that would work for a little remote hamlet somewhere.
Back on the Path, the day truly started with fields and another and another! I absolutely LOVE this kind of walking. The sun was out (already 22C), slight breeze, blue skies, and in the distance you can see the gate or fence you need to get to – and repeat! Little finish lines all day along the way.
We took a couple of micro breaks along the way when we found shade – a standing break, short, drink some electrolytes, put on more sunscreen and ‘just keep swimming’. The temps were quickly 24C which does make for pretty hot walking with shade so rare in the fields and moors. More breeze please!
At one point my dream of being a long distance path guide came true (winky) … we were crossing the moors where the guidebook says it’s particularly tricky to find the trail and I was all over it! We helped a couple re route as we made sure we too were on the correct path. Then another couple followed along too. Dad’s now calling me Dora the Explorer! Yah!
After a good push through the moors – we took our 11sies break on some well placed rocks (aka a natural bench to hikers) with some sheep for company. We were expecting the weather to change on us – thundershower warnings for later that evening and rain predicted at 90% for the rest of the afternoon – so we wanted to get in at least one sit down break before the rain started and kept us on our feet for the rest of the day.
We did get the rain we expected but not nearly as hard as we thought – it was the ‘I sorta need a rain jacket but it’s too warm in my rain jacket’. So the whole time wearing it you debate taking it off and the whole time not wearing you debate if you need it. Hiker problems, am I right?!
Just over half way, we hit the most Hobbit-like picturesque bridge you ever did see, Smardale Bridge. I swear I could see Gandalf pulling away in his cart making shapes with his pipe smoke. Merry and Pippin making jokes, laughing too hard, half singling jingles – ok that last bit was just me and Shar.
The rain seemed to have stopped for a short while so we took our lunch break here. Sitting along the fantastic old bridge and greeting Coast to Coasters as they passed by.
Right after lunch we had a long ascent out of the Cheese and Salami Shire and got to glimpse a couple of cool things across the ravine beside us. There was an aqueduct way in the distance and some sort of fortification built into the side of the ‘cliff’. Making up stories of what that could have been for or built by, we trudged up the incline to the top of the hills ready to tackle yet more fields.
We were making great progress and had managed to avoid the rain for a few more kilometers of fields and moor – loving the drop in temperature we were moving at a quick pace. That would end just as we were crossed a field for a tunnel under the rail line which we use to put back on the gear and of course a little photo opportunity!
The day ended with some more fields and a little bit of road walking in town and we arrived at our new best time (3pm) at the Bollam Cottage BnB. A little early for check in we debated dropping our bags and heading the couple of block to main street when our most amazing BNB lady offered to let us in a bit early (check in was at 4pm). Yes please! Hot tea, chilled water and cake to welcome us. Yes, yes please!
Refreshed, we made quick work of getting to our rooms and grabbing our dirty laundry to hit the laundrette – all of us keen to shower when we had clean clothes to put on later that eve. After the short couple blocks walk to town centre, we found the laundrette behind the fish and chip takeaway (literally the directions we were given) and clean clothes were ours!
We grabbed some dinner and a pint at the Pennine Inn. I had a local made steak and ale pie – called the Tipsy Cow Pie (love that!) – which was delicious. Then we headed back for showers and to enjoy the visitor’s lounge in our BnB for a couple games of Quirkle and a glass of wine.
For those with only the shake of a lamb’s tail…
- Date: Saturday June 21 2025
- Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
- Day: 7 of 17
- To/From: Orton / Kirkby Stephen
- Start/Finish time: 830am / 3pm
- Distance: 21.2km (Hiiker)
- Steps: 32,931
- Terrain: fields, some moors, and some more fields, baby bit of road walking
- Weather: 24c with some cloudy and rain
- Breaky: continental
- Lunch n Snacks: salami and cheese baguette, banana, cookies, strawberries
- Dinner: Tipsy Cow (steak and ale pie), chips and mushy peas, cold pint
- Tonight’s home away from home: Bollam Cottage BnB (the most amazing so far, the decor this place has is nothing I have seen before and everything I want)
- Mood: feeling good!
- Body: feeling good, my feet are ready for a little break – switch the blister bandaids, etc.
- Highlight: Gandalf’s Bridge (aka Smardale) and clean clothes
- Lowlight: the thunderstorm did not play out as the warnings and sky was promising!
- Deep thoughts: every fate opens and closes
Enjoying our rest day today (in their amazing lounge after a lazy morning exploring the town). See ya tomorrow!
Brande
PS We saw Ankles in Kirkby Stephen today and he is doing great! Got some new supports for those pesky ankles and continues to make his way. Such a nice chap. We are day behind now with our rest so likely won’t see him again, best of luck James!
runningforthegate 