West Highland Way, Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

Day 7 of 8 on the West Highland Way wrapped up both in pouring rain and in sunshine…

We started today’s 14.5km trek from the beautiful Kingshouse Hotel in Glen Coe, after our 745am breakfast.

Today we had the infamous Devil’s Staircase as our first hurdle on the trail and everyone was keen to hit this highest point of the West Highland Way at 550m before the rain started. We made quick work of the meal so we could get boots on trail asap. By 815 am most of us were out the door!

The path started with some a couple of gentle climbs but largely level, open and wide track for about 3.6km from the hotel to the base of the Devil’s Staircase. The rain looked to be holding off for us and we were thankful!

I actually hadn’t had the chance to hike and chat with Niki (Spicy Hobbit) yet so took full advantage of this mostly level section for some good, deep trail chat when her and I started to pace with each other .. had to get the chats in before I didn’t have the breath to talk her ear off.

Arriving at the base of the Devil’s Staircase you can look over the road back into Glen Coe and get a great photo of this small, white cottage against the dramatic landscape – I remember this same view well from my first time up this climb in 2008. A quick pic and then the climb began.

The Devil’s Staircase is often thought to be the toughest part of the trail but I think the name suggests more than the punch it packs. It does peak out at 550m but you are technically already at about 270m elevation and takes about 45mins.

The path itself is a single, stone, loose rock or sand path that zig zags the Munro face to the top. While this trail design called ‘switchbacks’ is a clear sign to hikers that there is some decent ascent (or descent depending on your direction) ahead, it is much easier to hike than straight up (pr down) shenanigans!

Also, as a hiker terrified of heights – yes, that’s me – I will take switchbacks over a sketchy straight to the top climb any day!

You just keep swimming, just jeep swimming, just keep swimming .. if you get tired on the climb there are some little passing place pullouts for a quick rest, opportunity to be amazed AGAIN by the view, and then back at it. Just keep swimming. I was chasing our day’s pace car Kristi (Ka-chow) and Lori (Goose) up the path – stopping to take pics or film video along the way. If you look closely in the pic above you can just make out Ka-chow and Goose up ahead.

At the top you are rewarded with 360 views. Looking back across the valley and climb you just traversed and a view of the undulating track ahead. We made it up before the rain started.

With only a very light mist was in the air at the top, I had such fun greeting the crew as they came up and over the last stretch of the climb! Encouraging those who wanted to carry on to the rest of the trail ahead – assuring folks us lingering at the too peeps would not be far behind! A little too chilly up there to hang out for too long today but I did have to wait for Shar (Early Bear) and Nikki who decided to quickly bag the adjacent Munro top, Bien Bheag at 616m for kicks.If you zoom in you can see there wee little bodies at the top!

Once everyone was up, we were on our way down the other side for a fantastic afternoon of undulating forest path. The rain hit pretty hard a couple of times but with the biggest climb of the day behind us it wasn’t too much bother. Most electing to just wear a rain jacket and forgo the rain pants with such a short distance (less than 10km) to finish.

Unfortunately the day ended with a long, steep forest gravel road down into Kinlochleven. You were still largely in the forest so it was pretty all around but the grade of the decline was very ouch on any sore joints or feet. The image below is a photo looking back up the road to show the grade – and it does not do justice to the angle we were trudging. My knee hated every step of this part of the trail today!

But no worries, despite the pouring rain and sore bodies from that decline section, we all showed up smiling at the Trailrace Inn that greets walker’s as they enter Kinlochleven at about 130pm for an end of day pint and some lunch at their pub. Walkers were arriving in drive’s after us and soon the place was fabulously busy.

By the time we left the pub the rain stopped and we headed to the Edencoille Guest House – we had almost every room in the place for our overnight in Kinlochleven. Most of us electing for an afternoon of sunshine on their front deck before dinner. Amazing!

The stats of the day:

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 7/8 Finished!
  • To/From: Kingshouse/Kinlochleven
  • Start/Finish time: 8:15/1:30pm
  • Distance: 14.5km (14.9km Hiiker)
  • Steps: 25,736
  • Terrain: single track to, over and down from the Devil’s Staircase. The a wide gravel road decent into Kinlochleven
  • Breaky: full Scottish breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: baby croissant sandwich, Mac and cheese
  • Dinner: cottage pie
  • Pints: 3
  • Tonight’s home: Edencoille Guest House
  • Mood: smiling
  • Body: feeling great.. except on the gravel road decent, a knee killer!
  • Highlights: the views, wow just wow
  • Lowlights: the gravel road
  • People of interest: the Scots guy who ran the Balcony Bar and Inn like a well oiled machine
  • Spontaneous dancing: nope
  • Deep thoughts: empty ziplocks, a silk liner and laundry soap are necessary in a long distance hike

Next up is the finish line, Day 8 from Kinlochleven to Fort William!

Brande

West Highland Way, Kinlochleven to Fort William

Finish line! That’s a wrap – our merry crew of West Highland Way walkers rambled into Fort William on Friday and sat down next to the guy with sore feet to celebrate our success!

And a special treat, our last day on the trail post is thanks to Shar (Early Bear) …

The morning started with a bittersweet (yet delicious) breakfast. Each of us filled with excitement for the finish line we have all worked so hard for and the sorrow of this amazing adventure coming to end.

Greeted with showers as we left the B&B and made our way through Kinchlochleven to rejoin the trail only to be faced with a steep climb up and into a beautiful trail winding through a glen so green and generously speckled with heather.

As the trail wandered through this lush valley, we danced over many small creek crossing, passed through the shadows of the surrounding monroes, coming across ruins of an old farm and cottage.

Shortly after passing the tall lone pine on the hillside, the trail leads you into a conifer plantation and onto a single undulating forest trail where we were welcomed by a herd of grazing sheep.

It was shortly into this part of the trail that hints of the great Ben Nevis whispered in our ears and teased our sight.

A steep ascent up and onto a forest road lead is down and into the Nevis Valley as we inched towards the finish line in Fort Williams’s Gordon’s square.

Although the surrounding was intensely stunning as Ben Nevis dramatically comes into full view, the last of the trail leaving the wilderness behind us was underwhelming.

With a short journey leading us through a small forested recreation area and onto a tarmac sidewalk where we pushed hard to get past and into Fort William.

The treck from this point on was a bit torturous – pavement is not a welcomed trail surface after journeying through the amazing landscape of the past 7.5days.

Passing the original end marker and onto High Street was pretty exciting for those whom have not visited Fort William previous to this adventure! And exciting for Brande (Doctor Boots) as this was the only finish line that existed her first completing the Way in 2008.

As we made our way to the end of the Way all our group gathered to cheer each walker as they got the man with sore feet on the bench waiting for us!

We hit the Black Isle Bar (pictured behind us above) for a celebration pint. There was even a toast from our resident Newfoundlanders, or as some on the trail may know them as as Impossible Turtle and Twisted Lobster or more recently C&C Walking Factory. All rights reserved, copyright, etc.

A Toast to the WHW

Devil’s staircase couldn’t break us
the paths before did take us
through glens of thistle and heather.
We crossed them all together
today, we ended the way in style
and celebrate every mile.
So cheers to the fast and furious,
here’s to the last and curious
to the keeners and in-betweeners
Slàinte Mhath and long may your big jib draw

What an amazing journey. How can something that feels so many days, so many kilometers, so many blisters, so many trail hurdles away come to an end so very fast? Already there is talk of what trail is on the books for our 2025 reunion!

Brande’s stats of the day …

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 8/8 Trail Complete
  • To/From: Kinlochleven/Fort William
  • Start/Finish time: 9:30/5:20pm
  • Distance: 23km (25.4km Hiiker)
  • Steps: 37,493
  • Terrain: single track up and up out of Kinlochleven, wide track through the Glen, into single track through forest and finally gravel road down to tarmac in Fort William
  • Breaky: full Scottish breakfast (scones were warm! mmmm)
  • Lunch n Snacks: baby bacon sandwich, cheese, jerky, candy, orange juice
  • Dinner: Grog & Gruel Chili Dog
  • Pints: 4
  • Tonight’s home: Stobahn Guest House
  • Mood: smiling, maybe even happy tears
  • Body: feeling really good, the hips are all that made themselves know yesterday – need to make sure I am not changing my stride for this brace
  • Highlights: the second half of the day on single forest track, amazing scenery with some hard work – my favorite
  • Lowlights: gravel road down to tarmac
  • People of interest: the little 6yr old girl walking the entire Way with her family without a care in the world
  • Spontaneous dancing: nope
  • Deep thoughts: there may be a reason trail and trial have the same letters (trial, an experience to test quality and value)

Now off the prep for the East Highland Way that starts for 2 of us on Sunday July 16!

Shar