West Highland Way, Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

Day 7 of 8 on the West Highland Way wrapped up both in pouring rain and in sunshine…

We started today’s 14.5km trek from the beautiful Kingshouse Hotel in Glen Coe, after our 745am breakfast.

Today we had the infamous Devil’s Staircase as our first hurdle on the trail and everyone was keen to hit this highest point of the West Highland Way at 550m before the rain started. We made quick work of the meal so we could get boots on trail asap. By 815 am most of us were out the door!

The path started with some a couple of gentle climbs but largely level, open and wide track for about 3.6km from the hotel to the base of the Devil’s Staircase. The rain looked to be holding off for us and we were thankful!

I actually hadn’t had the chance to hike and chat with Niki (Spicy Hobbit) yet so took full advantage of this mostly level section for some good, deep trail chat when her and I started to pace with each other .. had to get the chats in before I didn’t have the breath to talk her ear off.

Arriving at the base of the Devil’s Staircase you can look over the road back into Glen Coe and get a great photo of this small, white cottage against the dramatic landscape – I remember this same view well from my first time up this climb in 2008. A quick pic and then the climb began.

The Devil’s Staircase is often thought to be the toughest part of the trail but I think the name suggests more than the punch it packs. It does peak out at 550m but you are technically already at about 270m elevation and takes about 45mins.

The path itself is a single, stone, loose rock or sand path that zig zags the Munro face to the top. While this trail design called ‘switchbacks’ is a clear sign to hikers that there is some decent ascent (or descent depending on your direction) ahead, it is much easier to hike than straight up (pr down) shenanigans!

Also, as a hiker terrified of heights – yes, that’s me – I will take switchbacks over a sketchy straight to the top climb any day!

You just keep swimming, just jeep swimming, just keep swimming .. if you get tired on the climb there are some little passing place pullouts for a quick rest, opportunity to be amazed AGAIN by the view, and then back at it. Just keep swimming. I was chasing our day’s pace car Kristi (Ka-chow) and Lori (Goose) up the path – stopping to take pics or film video along the way. If you look closely in the pic above you can just make out Ka-chow and Goose up ahead.

At the top you are rewarded with 360 views. Looking back across the valley and climb you just traversed and a view of the undulating track ahead. We made it up before the rain started.

With only a very light mist was in the air at the top, I had such fun greeting the crew as they came up and over the last stretch of the climb! Encouraging those who wanted to carry on to the rest of the trail ahead – assuring folks us lingering at the too peeps would not be far behind! A little too chilly up there to hang out for too long today but I did have to wait for Shar (Early Bear) and Nikki who decided to quickly bag the adjacent Munro top, Bien Bheag at 616m for kicks.If you zoom in you can see there wee little bodies at the top!

Once everyone was up, we were on our way down the other side for a fantastic afternoon of undulating forest path. The rain hit pretty hard a couple of times but with the biggest climb of the day behind us it wasn’t too much bother. Most electing to just wear a rain jacket and forgo the rain pants with such a short distance (less than 10km) to finish.

Unfortunately the day ended with a long, steep forest gravel road down into Kinlochleven. You were still largely in the forest so it was pretty all around but the grade of the decline was very ouch on any sore joints or feet. The image below is a photo looking back up the road to show the grade – and it does not do justice to the angle we were trudging. My knee hated every step of this part of the trail today!

But no worries, despite the pouring rain and sore bodies from that decline section, we all showed up smiling at the Trailrace Inn that greets walker’s as they enter Kinlochleven at about 130pm for an end of day pint and some lunch at their pub. Walkers were arriving in drive’s after us and soon the place was fabulously busy.

By the time we left the pub the rain stopped and we headed to the Edencoille Guest House – we had almost every room in the place for our overnight in Kinlochleven. Most of us electing for an afternoon of sunshine on their front deck before dinner. Amazing!

The stats of the day:

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 7/8 Finished!
  • To/From: Kingshouse/Kinlochleven
  • Start/Finish time: 8:15/1:30pm
  • Distance: 14.5km (14.9km Hiiker)
  • Steps: 25,736
  • Terrain: single track to, over and down from the Devil’s Staircase. The a wide gravel road decent into Kinlochleven
  • Breaky: full Scottish breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: baby croissant sandwich, Mac and cheese
  • Dinner: cottage pie
  • Pints: 3
  • Tonight’s home: Edencoille Guest House
  • Mood: smiling
  • Body: feeling great.. except on the gravel road decent, a knee killer!
  • Highlights: the views, wow just wow
  • Lowlights: the gravel road
  • People of interest: the Scots guy who ran the Balcony Bar and Inn like a well oiled machine
  • Spontaneous dancing: nope
  • Deep thoughts: empty ziplocks, a silk liner and laundry soap are necessary in a long distance hike

Next up is the finish line, Day 8 from Kinlochleven to Fort William!

Brande

West Highland Way, Orchy to Kingshouse

That’s a wrap on Day 6 of 8 on our West Highland Way adventure! What a fantastic day. l love how after a few days into a day after day walking adventure – the trail distances start getting easier and easier. We knocked off 20km in 5 hours when a similar distance days ago was taking the group 10!

We started with a lovely breakfast together, most having a full Scottish or at least something warm/cooked. As folks were ready to go (carry forward bag left in reception, packed lunch tucked away in a rucksack) they started out across the historic Bridge of Orchy.

The path started with a pretty good uphill climb up and up on a single track through forest and then clear cut forest to amazing views.

From there we dropped back down to walk along a tarmac road for about 30mins – where we passed the most energetic and interesting shop owner at the Inveroran Hotel. He was standing outside congratulating us on hitting the 100km mark and suggesting ice cream to celebrate. Everyone who passed had a little bit of a different but still wholly excited experience. Sounds like Cheryl and Charmaine even had the pleasure of hearing play guitar and sing with inside the shop grabbing something.

On the tarmac, we passed a few farms and field. You may get a chance to see some local cows on some of our group’s Instagram accounts – they were next to the fence and so cute. Shortly, we made a quick turn and we’re back in or among the forest to start our very long trek on the Drover’s road where we experienced the life of cattle of old.

Drover’s roads existed (with many still around today and often part of the National trail system) for farmers in the good ole days to drive / walk their cattle to market. There was usually an Inn or hut for the Drover himself to shelter in at night along the route. We saw many of these as ruins but some are still around as Inns, bothies or private homes. We had the chance to have dinner at one, aptly names the Drover’s Inn, a couple days ago.

The actual Drover’s road itself reminds me of a cobblestone concept – rocks of all shapes and sizes across the road way pressed into the dirt to create a ‘road’ that unfortunately is pretty rough under foot. Good luck finding a flat spot to step. You really need to pay attention to each step or risk an ankle roll. We had almost 10km of this surface but the weather was great, not to much for incline or declines, and we had lots of rivers and bridges and the view to keep us entertained.

We had mostly great weather – some threat of rain but it settled itself into mist only and then back to sunshine – making for a great opportunity to take some photos and have a nice long break!

As we got closer to the end of the day, you could really see the view start to change – we were coming across Rannoch Moor with its beautiful expanse of open moorland (heather, grasses, some wild flowers and very very soggy soil without a tree anywhere for the eye to see) and then finally up and up over the shoulder of Bien Chaorach (a small Munro) and we had views of Glen Coe. Wow!

It was not too long from here where we could spot the Glen Coe Ski Resort in the distance and not too much farther the Kingshouse Hotel.

I was really excited to stay at this Hotel again. When I stayed in 2008 it was an oasis in the middle of nowhere after a pretty lonely day on the trail. I literally saw not a soul when I did this section back in 2008 – today we saw 50 people I bet including like full families! I also heard they had put in 12+million pounds to upgrade the place too.

The hotel did not disappoint – what a great place to stay! We met for drinks in the bar, our group growing as folks finished their day. A few took naps and/or met in the hikers bar (a little more our style aka less fancy) for some Quirkle and a pint before our dinner reservation and a much deserved good night’s sleep.

The stats:

  • Trail: West Highland Way, Scotland
  • Day: 6/8 Finished!
  • To/From: Bridge of Orchy / Kingshouse
  • Start/Finish time: 8:30/2:30pm
  • Distance: 20km (19.8km Hiiker)
  • Steps: 27,290
  • Terrain: single track up and up and up to start then down into wide track but like old cobble stone street – hard under foot ,
  • Breaky: full Scottish breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: half a chicken sandwich, gummy sharks, chips
  • Dinner: venison pie
  • Pints: 3
  • Tonight’s home: Kingshouse Hotel
  • Mood: smiling
  • Body: feeling great
  • Highlights: chatting and walking w sis
  • Lowlights: spot of rain
  • People of interest: n/a
  • Spontaneous dancing: nope
  • Deep thoughts: in future build a natural rest day into long distance hikes so you can get to know a place

Next up, 14.5km Kingshouse to Kinlochleven .. which includes the stretch of trail called the Devil’s Staircase!

Brande