Beyond the Bonk

Excited to share a guest post by one of my hiking besties, Cheryl aka Impossible Turtle …

We’ve all been there: You’re partway through your day on the trail and you find yourself checking your watch (or phone or AllTrails or Ken – aka Cairn) to see how many kilometres you have left. And it never seems like the “right” number. Then it slowly hits you, that realization that no one wants on a hike: You fell out of love with this sh*t five or six km back.

Dammit. This, my friends, is the wall. The bonk. The “why am I even out here” moment. And it sucks.

But let’s not mistake it for more than it is. It happens to everyone at some point. It doesn’t mean you don’t still love hiking or long distance walking, it just means you need a different game plan for this hike and this day of walking. That’s it. And believe me when I say you can spend five or six or ten kms trying to talk yourself out of it and find your trail joy again or you can embrace the suck, acknowledge where you are (in all the ways – literally, metaphorically, emotionally, physically), see it as temporary and get sh*t done.

Before I delve into the ways I battle the bonk, I should mention there are plenty of perfectly logical, sensible ways to prevent bonking.

Here are a few:

  • Get adequate sleep the night before your hike
  • Drink (and bring) plenty of water, some with added electrolytes if it’s hot or you’re a sweaty mess like me
  • Eat a good, but familiar breakfast. Think something filling that will hold you til elevenses but not something heavy or bothersome for your guts.
  • Bring plenty of snacks. (Protein like beef jerky or pepperoni is a go to for me. Salty is good. Candy is also good, but we’ll get to that in a minute.)
  • Relax. This is the hardest one, I know. But if you can stay in the moment and keep your head on the trail (not at home with your daily stresses), you’ve got a better chance of feeling the pre-bonk feelings and saving yourself some grief.

Now, let’s say you (*cough*me*cough*) did all of these things to the best of your ability, given the circumstances and still, you’re feeling. It. All.

Muscle pain. Fatigue. Joint pain. Heat. Anxiety. Guilt.

It’s all beating down on you like the 28 degree sun but there’s no cream that blocks that junk out. You feel like you hit your limit.

(Side note: I’m willing to bet you’ve never actually hit this limit. I’ve let the negative part of my brain convince me I’ve been at that edge many times, on many trails. But it’s lied to me every time. There’s a way to finish. I promise.)

So what do you do? What did I do? I got angry with myself. That sounded a little like this: “You’re in the Cotswolds, for god’s sake! C’mon, Ashworth, you’re in England, in area of outstanding natural beauty, how dare you not love this? Do you know what your family had to do to make this work?” Uhm, that’s not exactly a motivational speech, friends. That kind of self talk doesn’t make the 10 or 15 kms left feel breezy. 😉 But I had to have that moment to hear the ridiculousness of it and then I had to say it out loud to mg trail buddies to hear it sound even more ludicrous. And then it was out of my system. I’ve admitted it. This afternoon, this moment in time on this small section of the Cotswold Way is not my friend. I admitted that, I owned it and I tried to let it be. I couldn’t change it. I loved the day before and would probably love the day to followed. Not loving this bit right here and right now doesn’t define my walk.

So now what?

Candy. I wish I was kidding. Moments like this are what Skittles were made for, my friends. A little glycogen for the muscles, a little sugar straight to the brain brings back some semblance of motivation. I discovered Skittles without the shell in the UK and they saved me several times. Despite condensing themselves into one giant candy clump in the heat, I could always rely on these for a sweet little kick in the butt.

My second saviour will seem like a real trail rule breaker to some and that’s fine! I get it. But music motivates me like nothing else. When you really, truly need something to push you forwards, I know you have a go to song. For Wales & Cots, mine was Free by Florence and the Machine. I don’t often have headphones in my pack, but I did throw them in for the last few days on the trail. (Persistent muscle troubles and some joint pain will have you reevaluating and carrying bits & bobs you otherwise might skip.) I always have my phone, for maps and for emergencies, so at least once, on my really down day, I pulled out my headphones and set Florence to repeat. I think Shar relied on some Motley Crüe one day – whatever floats your boat or moves your feet!

Above all, the biggest thing to remember is the cheesiest platitude I have for you: This too shall pass. It will. It does. And when it happens next time, you’ll know it won’t beat you. It never has. The bonk never wins.

As long as your feet are still in your boots, you can bust through any bonk.

Cheryl

Cotswold Way, Day 8 Cold Ashton to Bath

Looking back on Day 8 of 8 on the Cotswold Way – yes that’s right, finish line day!

We clocked this day in at 15 kilometers and just over 5 hours back in July – wrapping up before the sun was sweltering but still warm enough that the cold ‘finish line’ pint in the ONLY pub with air conditioning in all of Bath felt amazing. In fact, it felt epic!

We kicked the day off as early as possible as part of our continued ‘beat the heat wave’ strategy. We were staying in Bath so had to arrange taxi transport from our B&B back to Cold Ashton to start our walk back to Bath (where the finish line is for the Way).

Our walking company had arranged the taxi to pick us up at 930am originally but in light of the 35C temps we expected by noon that was no longer going to work! Chatting direct with the taxi company, they agreed to change it to 6am for us. We had to skip our included breakfast at the B&B but totally worth it! We were on the trail for 630am and the temperature was really comfortable of hours. That 3.5 hour difference would likely mean a 10C difference – that’s a big deal!

Much of the day (morning really) was spent walking though fields of cattle or crops. Most had wide open views of the hills and other fields around us – the sense of being small in such a big space was fantastic!

The path today was ‘easy’ in that it was a lot of rolling up and downhill – not the dramatic, heart pumping climb in and out of every town we had grown used too. The trail and the views were still spectacular mind you! Recognizing that we would soon be playing in Bath and London and the views would be all city scape and not these beautiful green hills – we had to snap one more selfie ‘up top’. So lush!

A little bovine excitement …

One of the fields we crossed had a ‘Bull in Field’ sign. While we appreciate the heads up, the warning can make you a little more nervous than is maybe warranted. I could have probably crossed this field blissfully unaware that Mr Bull was present but the sign had me on high alert. (Refer back to terrifying Bull vs Brande of 2008 on Hadrian’s Wall incident here for background lol)

We stayed together walking with a pep in the ole step to the rock stile (steps up and over the field’s rock wall perimeter) where we would leave the field behind – no reason to dilly dally even if Mr Bull was being entertained by his ladies in the far corner.

As luck has it though, when we stared our trek across the very long field, the cattle also made their move and started to make their way to the same end of the field we were headed towards. But no worries folks – our graceful, stealth like hiking skills had us at the rock fence well before the beef arrived. In fact, we were so non-pulsed by the walking steaks and hamburgers heading our way that we hung out at the rock wall a while for a little photo shoot. We knew we could just pop over the fence quickly if the beef headed our way.

Little did we know, the fence was not complete. The beef walked right through the gap to the very next, again long and large, field we were also heading into. Another field where we had to walk to the far side of AND then walk the length to the farthest corner (where the cattle were heading too) to reach the next stile to leave said beef filled field behind. Yikes! We double timed it a little more seriously this time … just in case Mr Bull heard us laughing at him and took exception to our tom foolery!

We made it and little did we know that would be some of the last livestock we would see as we wrapped up Cotswold Way. Soon we were in more urban settings, passing though a golf course (where we took a nice snack break), then city parks and finally the city itself.

By the time we did get into Bath late morning, we were smoking hot – the temp was already in the low 30s and the approach into Bath was full of steep hills and little shade. An emergency iced latte was required from the cutest coffee shop called Hungry Bear before we even approached the finish line.

Rested a bit and refreshed a little, we made our way to the Bath Abbey where the Cotswold Start/Finish is located – a circular plaque on the ground with an acorn in the center, matching the one we started at in Chipping on Campden.

Unfortunately the Abbey was in full swing all week for local university graduations so we couldn’t visit the actual Abbey (as many do when they finish or start) and we had to act like bouncers to get some time with the acorn plaque without a grad in the frame. So while not quite what we expected – it felt pretty amazing all the same.

Right, well there is the Cotswold Way wrapped up with a spectacularly hot finish but what a long distance adventure! While not listed as difficult or even moderately strenuous in guide books, the Way should not be underestimated. There is a good amount of work on the trail to be done – you cannot achieve great views without great climbs. Most definitely easier that the Offa’s Dyke Path but still a heck of a work out and but felt great to finish.

Ok now let’s go find a celebratory pint …

Brande

Cotswold Way, Day 6 Dursley to Old Sodbury

Day 6 of 8 on the Cotswold Way was the first day we saw the temperatures rise to well above the 30C mark. The heatwave that we are experiencing here in England has definitely changed our approach to the walk and I am secretly loving it .. we have decided to start these last days of the Way as the sunrises at 5am. My favourite time to be hiking! Brings back fond memories of my Camino adventure.

All of us were up at 430am (if not earlier) to get ready and quietly sneak out the doors of the Woodlands House B&B in Dursley. The B&B does not do breakfast for 430am so instead they left us a nice note and had some fruit, crisps (potato chips) and granola bars for us to grab and go. I have to admit I did missed my full English Breakfast and pot of tea.

As we started our walk with the moon heading to bed and the sun coming up all in the first hour of the day. The temperature was perfect and, crazy enough, still warm enough to be in just tank tops and shorts (a signal of the heat to come!)

The Way kicked off with a climb out of the town (of course), a nice jaunt across a golf course, some more uphill and then we were rewarded with our first break of the day at the Broadway Tower.

An amazing tower on the top of a lengthy hill surrounded by forest and fantastic footpaths all over the place. No wonder we saw so many early morning dog walkers here – they too were beating the heat of the day at a great place!

While the rest of us settled into our first break to enjoy our trial breakfast, Shar popped up the 187 steps of the tower to see the 360 views of the landscape. Adding more steps to an already 26km day on a skinny old, stone, skinny spiral staircase was not my idea of a good time. She was our tribute to head up and see what she could see – while we snacked lol.

While sitting enjoying our breakfast we heard scary, freaky animal screaming from the forest we would be entering next – like blood curdling kind of screaming. We had no idea what made the sound. A bird of prey, tortured souls, maybe a werewolf! The dogs in the area were barking heaps when it happened too. When we asked the locals who passed us what is was they also had no idea. What the heck?! I asked one chap walking his dog if there are werewolves in the areas, jokingly of course, oh wow he laughed. We chatted about our hike with him a bit more and as we said goodbye, he said ‘good luck with the beasties’. Hilarious!

Happy to report we made it through the woods safely. We may never know if it was a werewolf or white walker or a death eater.

From there we crossed field after field of crops and livestock. One crop we had not seen yet was a field of, we think, Canola plants. They were head height and the field was so long it took us quite some time to get through – poor Cheryl was in the front of our pack on spider web clearing duty and her shoulders and arms were on fire by the time we came through. Thanks Cheryl!

I took my turn on spider web clearing in the next Vegetation Corridor of Humid Hell (what we came to call skinny paths between chest height brambles and grasses). One of the down sides of getting out first on the trail is that no other hikers cleared the arachnids for us already.

One ‘exciting’ moment on the trial was when we tried to get through a pasture of cattle. Other walkers came through before us and cause the cattle to move to one end of the pasture which was quite skinny with bramble (thistle, stinging nettle, blackberry bushes, etc) and either side and our gate dead centre where the beef were currently standing. Doh!

We tried to find a high path to get past and down to the gate but nope, trued a low route and nope, tried to encourage them as a group to move along to one side or the other but nope, and tried to walk through them also nope.

After way too many minutes in the hot sun hoping they might move away from the gate on their own, we made our way through the devil brambles and used the arms wide and saying ‘Bubba Bubba Bubba’ over and over again (not sure why I used that word in the first place but we all got in on it and it worked) moved the massive cows off the path enough to get to the gate. We mostly came out unscathed…Rosa’s legs (she was the lead on the bramble taming portion of our plan) however will never be the same!

In our travels we passed a few other cool sights, another tower, a fantastic church, neat shine stile and some new Cotswold Way sign style we hadn’t seen before.

Our most favorite moment, was this sweet sign from a local child offering us weary hikers some fresh water on way too hot of a day.

Just a few kilometers from Old Sodbury, our destination for the day, we stumbled into the Beaufort Arms pub to refresh with some iced sparkling water and a look at the trail ahead. The temp was already in the 30s and we had just finished a long section of the trail where there was little or no shade to take breaks in.

As it got hot on the trail our technique was to hike from shade to shade. Cross a long pasture in the sun, take a micro standing break in the shade to cool down and slow the heart rate – repeat! During the afternoon, these shaded breaks were getting far and few between with no trees or clouds to provide refuge. We were sorta, kinda, totally melting.

Looking at the trail ahead, we had just a few km left but it was all through wide open farmland – that meant waist high crops and zero trees / shade. We would have been like mini donuts on the deep fryer conveyor belt at a carnival. I like to eat donuts not be a donut. So what to do? When in doubt let the path decide…

The bartender (we refer to her as Beaufort Bonnie now) was going into Old Sodbury at the end of her shift in an hour and offered us a ride AND the kitchen had cooked too many roasted potatoes for Sunday dinner and brought us out a warm bowl for free to enjoy. A sign to order cold pints to wash the potatoes of joy down and hitch the ride!

We arrived at the Old Sodbury, thanks Beaufort Bonnie, at about 4pm to enjoy a shower, maybe a nap, and then a great supper in the Dogs Inn pub (also our accommodation) and some pints in the beer garden with some other hikers we met along the way. Fun!

A fantastic way to end the day before we start again tomorrow at 5am again!

Brandé

Cotswold Way, Day1 Chipping Campden to Wood Stanway

Day 1 of 8 of the Cotswold Way is a wrap and wow there is just nothing like it!

The Cotswold walk is a National Path in England from Chipping Campden to Bath. The distance is 164 kilometers and the trail is largely rolling hills between quintessential butterscotch colored brick and thatched roof buildings clustered together into small villages. The buildings are so different than any other area I have walked in before in the UK – so signature! Very touristy compared to Offa’s Dyke Path truth be told but only in the towns. While on the Path it’s just us and nature!

We (myself, my sister Shar and our two besties Rosa and Cheryl) kicked of the fun this morning just after 8am at the official start/finish – which is the very old market area of Chipping Campden.

From there we made our way out of town and and across parkland and pastures and quiet lanes most of the day. The temp was meant to be about 24degrees so we were a bit worried about walking in the heat – but the ‘trail provides’ as they say and it was warm but we had cloud cover all day. Yahoo!

We walked right through a little village called Broadway where we stopped for a fantastic lunch at the deli. A goat cheese with chili jam and red onions toastie (panini) for lunch? Yes please!

We made our way out … or should I say up .. from Broadway after lunch to enjoy more pastures, quiet lanes, and parkland.

Our afternoon (or two-sies) break was on some well placed rocks along a quiet lane – just long enough to have a bit of a snack and for me to put my foot up for a wee bit. If I stay ahead of it with pain killers, sports tape and elevation for a bit every 10+ kilometers – its golden!

As we came into Stanway, a small village just before the hamlet where we are staying called Wood Stanway, we discovered the Stanway Fountain and Manor House was open. So we popped in for a break at the 300 foot fountain (largest gravity fountain in the world?) and a look around the home and estate that has been with the same family since the 1600s. You can even tour the actual manor house – but not the house kitchen as the Earl himself was making a cup of tea. For reals!

From there it was a short skip and a jump (ok at 20+ kilometers there was no actual skipping and jumping) we arrived at the Wood Stanway Farmhouse our B&B got the night. Not only was this B&B farm house built over 400 years ago, but our host Maggie was amazing, and she made us a delicious home-cooked meal for dinner. Wow! Checks all the boxes.

That’s an early night for us. 2 of our crew are still adjusting to their 7hr time change and all of us are keen to get a good sleep and on the Path early tomorrow before the day gets too hot!

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day11 Pandy to Llangattock-Langoed

Day 11 of 14 done and this one included a few tourist opportunities too!

We started the day with a delicious cooked breakfast at The Crown Inn, and then made our way to the Longtown Castle.

There is a lot left to these castle ruins and while we were sad to see you could no longer go into the tower (repairs required to make it safe) there was enough stone walls and arches to imagine what this castle would have been like! Originally a Roman fort it was later used by the Saxons – built in the 13th century. Wow!

From the castle it was just steps away to the church also built in the 13th century. I cannot believe how well loved this church is, beautiful gardens and flower beds and still the place to go worship in the town and surrounding area.

We then made our way to the Old Pandy Inn in the wee village of, you guessed it, Pandy. This pub is known for their yummy Welsh Faggots.

I love trying very local fare – whatever that country or region boasts as a local favourite or staple. From Mopami worms deep fried and dipped in Peri Peri sauce in Zimbabwe to an entire foot long squid grilled over an open flame with lemon and pepper in Greece – I am in!

Welsh Faggots are basically meatballs but honour cooking ‘nose to tail’ .. so include all the bits and offal that would not be part of other cuts you might usually buy at the butcher. An interesting thought as you are eating them but they were really good. Served with mushy peas, gravy and chips. Yummy!

From there we made our way to Llangoteck-Langoed (try pronouncing that one!) – the path was largely agricultural with pastures and lots of crop fields. A few sweaty uphills to get the heart pumping and nothing but sunshine to get these hiker tan lines solidified!

From there we spent some time exploring the St Cadoc Church which is literally right next to our B&B .. I am trying to not think about all the 200+ year old gravestones just feet from my bedroom window. Who you gonna call?

We spent the rest of the afternoon doing a little sink laundry and then letting it dry in the garden under the sun while we journaled and read and chatting about our last 3 days ahead of us.

Then to the pub for a pint of some local brew and cider (Robinson’s Cider is epic by the way) .. after stopping for a little guillotine photo shoot on the way as you do!

Tomorrow we are off to Monmouth and right on the Path we get to visit White Castle. It’s a longer day at 22+ km but the weather looks great and the path inviting!

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day10 Hay-on-Wye to Longtown

Day 10 of 14 done and I cannot even begin to tell you how amazing today was! My absolute fav day so far – just wow, wow, wow!

After a long and not so gentle climb out of Hay-on-Wye (a town I wish we had a full day to explore), we spent the next 3+ hours up on the Hatterall Ridge of the Black Mountains.

The ridge is a wide, moorland area that is a mix of packed trail or stone slabs (to fight erosion). There is heather as far as you can see and it hides the thick bog to the left and right of the Path. Dotting the landscape are so many wild ponies – including some wee baby foals that are adorable!

Can you even believe that view? The day started overcast and at a great temperature for the climb up (about 10-12C) but once up at top the sun started to peak out and the temp was fantastic (about 15-19C)! The wind even stayed quite mild which made for easy walking!

At about the 20th kilometer of the day and 330pm-ish, we found our stone marker that signaled the decent to Longtown for the night!

We wrapped up looking back at how high we really were for the day and then into our home / pub for the night at the Crown Inn for a celebration pint and some fish & chips!

Tomorrow we will check out the Longtown Castle and then walk from Pandy to a town named Llangattock (I will not be pronouncing that correctly on tomorrow morning’s video!)

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day9 Kington to Hay-on-Wye

Day 9 of 14 done and what a day! I have a friend! Cheryl aka trail name Impossible Turtle is my bestie to the end of Offa’s Dyke Path!

We had beautiful overcast skies today with NO rain at all and a few sunny breaks. The average temp was 15C on the ridge and 19C in the valley. Aka absolutely perfect hiking weather!

We started the day, as usual, with a climb out of the town of Kington but it was a nice incline. Enough you needed some breaks but not so steep that are cursing King Offa himself! In about an hour we were at the top and had fantastic views and the company of some wild ponies!

From there, after a little lunch in our very own homemade picnic spot, we started the long way down into Hay-on-Wye. A bit of forest time and a lot of pasture or field time too.

Coming into Hay-on-Wye felt like it took forever – but we passed some cute little gems in the forest and a number of really cool sights in the town. This town is the book store capital of the world or something fun like that – there are so many amazing bookstores and it was so hard not to go in and buy ALL the books.

The ‘long’ way in Hay probably felt longer cause of my feet … so a bit of an update … arch is a little better (tape has made a huge difference) but the beating the other foot took to over compensate is now causing me a problem. Think infected blisters. Ugh! Seems these feet cannot win but I am keeping a close eye.

Day 10 of the trail is the Hatterall Ridge – up and up and up then we walk the open grassy ridge for 3 hours. Wow!

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day8 Knighton to Kington

Day 8 of 14 done and today may have been my favourite so far! I got all the things I love today, some good climbs with amazing views as a reward, lots of time in the quiet forest and a good amount of sunshine too! Also a nice distance at 22km and in about 6hours – sweet spot.

The day started with a yummy hot breakfast at 8am and by 830 I had said ‘thanks very much’ to the amazing owners at The Red Lion Inn and was on my way! I had my Sunnies on and was excited to stretch the legs again after my much needed rest day.

The day started with a heart pumping climb up and out of Knighton through a quiet dark forest (thanks to the fine folks who built in some stairs on the steeper bits) and I had the pleasure of staying quite high for a couple of hours with lots of grassy walking and fantastic views.

My fav moment of the walk … a wee old Welsh guy out checking on the sheep and cows ‘as you should do on a Sunday mornin’ joined me for a couple of long pastures. Chatting about his farm, giving me some hints on the best views and somehow guessed West Canada as my original. I did not have a visible flag on my pack! What a bloke, such a fun little visit!

From there, what goes up must come down. I spent some time angling down to the lower valley with some more forest time, pasture walking and much of the time walking on the actual Dyke itself!

I met quite a few Offa’s Dyke Walkers on this stretch. One couple (locals) mentioned they lived in Calgary once and he was one of the guys who built the Jasper Gondola! Another gave me a heads up about a VERY overgrown section of the Path ahead – very is an understatement! What I wouldn’t have given for a little travel sized weed wacker for that mile. My daily tick check was extra vigilant this evening!

I enjoyed a little snack for my lunch at the side of a little river. I somehow forgot to buy lunch for the day so an apple, crackers and a Twix for the win! The bridge had a great spot to sit and the angle made a perfect spot to pop my feet up for a little rest too! Brilliant!

Well in Wales, what goes down must go up and up and up again. The climb from this river to the top of the next ridge called Herrock Hill was a doozy – heart beating and hard working. I just ‘kept swimming’ so much so I didn’t care that I got bit by not just one horsefly but 4! They love getting their fangs into you at the worst time, and on the back of my legs and butt too! At least it’s not my face like the other day. Jerks!

Totally worth it for the view!

From there it was a pleasantly long and steady downhill into Kington. Just as I walked into town, my home for the night The Swan Inn came into sight. I was just thinking about stretching and putting my feet up … and a pint!

Now I told you about the best part of the Path but do you know the best part of the day?! I have been joined by the one and only Impossible Turtle (trail name!) for the second half of this amazing Path!

There will be shenanigans than usual with Cheryl at my side!

Tomorrow we are walking Kington to Hay on Wye about 24km which includes a long ridge walk – and the weather looks amazing!

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day6 Buttington to Lower Cym

Day 6 of 14 done and dusted folks! Today was a great day – the path and the weather behaved marvelously and my foot, for the most part, minded it’s own business too! A win!

The day started with a 1.5hr up, up, up and more up that got the heart pumping! It was largely through livestock fields or pastures so pretty easy walking underfoot. Nothing too-too steep but just enough of an incline that you still need to really work for it. The next gate or stile in the distance is a major milestone.

What goes up, gives you a great view, and must go down. The next section of the walk stayed up top for a bit in a forested area and included a tour of the Beacon Ring which would have been one of the beacon fire locations from the ole castle days. Very cool! (Yes Shar, like Lord of the Rings lol)

Even cooler was the Offa’s Dyke Path Stamp box I found. Scrapbookers dream! These little boxes are in a number of places along the trail and believe or not I found two of them today!

From there it was mostly a gentle downhill stroll (one uphill with stairs that went on forever) through the forest. I did see a German couple walking North but I think they were going for ‘personal best time’ so no idea where they were heading to or coming from. A ‘hiya’ and ‘good walk’ was our exchange. They were speedy!

After coming out of the forests downhill portion, it was all about the open fields and another field and another. For the most part I had the path to myself – once in a while sharing with a few sheep of course who were so kind and gave me my personal space.

Met an old American fellow also walking North he was quite excited about being in his last few+ days of this walk and waxed poetic about Cotswold Way (he did it last year).

And a few more forest bits to wrap up the day – this section reminded me of the Hobbit! (You can take a peek at the different trail highlights in a compilation video of each day on @runningforthegate Instagram)

I stopped a couple of times to do the sunscreen thing – it doesn’t really show in the photos but it was one of those overcast but still bright days. Those are when I burn the worst! Oh and one quick stop for a shoe change and half sandwich – funny how much energy you put out when walking but so little appetite. The Welcome to Shopshire signs were in so many places – what a friendly bunch!

So really it was a near solid 6hr walking day, I left at just before 10am and arrived at my B&B at 4pm. The Offa’s Dyke Cottage B&B is literally on the Path – and is absolutely amazing! I thought I was still a couple hours away but a quick map check out it at the 45min mark instead and that put a pep in the step!

I have the run of the place. They made me a fabulous cottage pie (like shepherds pie) and so many wonderful veggies for supper, now I am sitting in the guest’s living room in front of a fire with a view out over the country side. Wow! Everyone needs this gem on their ODP!

Ok that’s a wrap for the day! A tea and a book by the fireplace is in order.

Tomorrow I am off to Knighton for a heal-my-stupid-wrecked-foot-in-a-day rest so I can ‘keep swimming’ the rest of the OPD and then onto Cotswolds Way. I am all about the long game on this one peeps and am currently at about 140km of the 450km+ planned!

Brandé

Offa’s Dyke Path, Day3 Clywyd Gate to Llangollen

Day 3 of 14 complete and what a beauty – I got a bit of everything today. Quiet lane waking, some hard work up and over livestock fields, quiet and dark forest paths, and even a lengthy and amazing stone pathed bog (my favorite!)

I topped out at 26 kilometers today in just over 8 hours and honestly I felt every step. Maybe a good time for a foot update…

4 months ago in a soccer / futbol match I tore 2 ligaments in my right foot. Not ruptured but a grade 3 tear aka barely hanging on. You cannot fix ligaments except with surgery and they don’t do that until they are fully torn (ruptured). The result was months of physiotherapy to make my foot and ankle and calf and hamstring stronger so they compensate for these now wimpy ligaments.

Well as I walk farther and harder (up and down steep sections of which are around every corner or stile) my muscles get tired which then let’s those ligaments misbehave. Long story long, we are only day 3 and every step feels like fire in my heel and a punch in the arch. Once I get a good clip on it feels much better (not gone) but after any break or pause it’s a bit of torture for a while and I am pretty super sore at night. Combine that with the rocky surface or cow churned up field and holy-heck-ouch. I have pain killers (not sure they work) and topical pain killer cream (I think helps a bit) and stretches but it’s feeling pretty ick.

I may need to build in a rest day and that makes this long distance hiker’s heart break – i will think about it over the next few days and pick it strategically if I do. I don’t want to mess up the Cotswold Way Walk that I do just after Offa’s with my sister Shar and our besties Rosa and Cheryl. I do have a rest day between so that’s good this and that – so that’s good!

Back to the good stuff …

I put up a compilation video on @runningforthegate Instagram off some of the different trail bits to give you an idea of that too.

What I didn’t get to do today was the scree crossing – this terrified of heights gal just couldn’t make it happen. I thought it was pretty short like 100-200meters and was fully prepared to make it /happen. But, oh no my friends it is over 2 MILES or 3.2 KILOMETERS long and there is NO exit and is largely just shoulder width with nothing on the edge. You have to strategically think about how you pass people. That is just too much for me. Ugh thinking about it makes me all tummy floppy. The tipping point was honestly 3 different walkers I passed who had just come from that section encouraging me (without prompting) to take the alternative lane route – that is was awful. Lane it is!

To give you an idea of what this scree crossing is all about … here is a photo of the scree path from the nice, flat, quiet and quaint lane I was walking (it runs parallel). See that line across the mid point of the scree slide? That is the path! The second picture is the same shot just super zoomed in to show you the hikers up there that you cannot even see in my first photo it’s so high and scary and awful and no thanks!

My day near wrapped up with a break on a bench (that they call seat around these parts) admiring the ruins of the Dinas Bras Castle – or as one old gent put it when he asked where I was headed as I walked past his farm ‘that there is a real castle not like one of those pretty Edwardian things England offers’. While having my break, I ate my classic apple and a chocolate as another old guy and I exchanged stories of our long distance walks, his favorite was West Highland Way. Me too!

From there it was a 40 min lane stroll down into Llangollen where I am staying at the Squirrels B&B which is amazing! My room is so great and perfect and I enjoyed a warm tea, some cookies and a little nap with my feet up the wall as soon as I strolled in.

After that, a short stroll to check out this cute little town – and grab a pint and dinner, of course. What a cute little town!

Tomorrow is another 26km but looks pretty amazing .. and will be as I am going to wake up and my foot will be all fixed! 😉

Brandé