Coast to Coast Day 4 Grasmere to Patterdale

Day 4 done like dinner! What a beautiful day – from trail to views to weather, wow.

We kicked the day off with another great breakfast at The Swan Hotel – scrambled eggs, porridge, tea, coffee, the works. Then grabbed our kit and made our way the short way back through Grasmere to the Co-Op. A convenience store meets grocery store for small towns and one of my favourite shops for trail side provisions. I found my Prawn Cocktail crisps (potato chips) and was already excited to crack into them on our lunch break. Yummy!

About a kilometer of quiet road walking to kick off the day and then we were back on rocky paths.

Before heading up, we did a quick chat with Ankles. A very nice chap also doing the Coast to Coast that we had seen for the last couple days. Nicknamed (by us) for his two reconstructed ankles and our amazement that he is doing, albeit it looks painful, the Coast to Coast Path. I will officially complain less about my annoying knee brace!

Up and up and up along a rocky path between the trees and bracken, led us to a gorgeous river crossing and our first route decision on our way up to Grisdale Tarn (538m or 1,765 feet), our lunch spot for the day.

To get to Grisdale Tarn you had to go around Little Tongue – a baby ‘mountain’ – and there was the left side that has steeper sections and more exposed path or the right side Little Tongue that is a sustained climb but a way from the edge. Both at about 1.8km before the paths rejoined and all leading to Grisdale Tarn our lunch spot.

Surprise! I went right and my trusty partner in crime, Hailey, came with me. Also, surprise! Dad and Shar went left for a bit more adrenaline. With a wave and smile we set off.

The Little Tongue route Hailey and I took was absolutely breathtaking! We continued to walk on the very obvious rocky path, with a beautiful stone fence to our left most of the way (in my mind some farmer from way long ago out built it as a safety fence for me, thanks Ned!). We walked up and up and up on a gentle but thoroughly thigh burning incline – the little river or stream crossing every 100 or so feet helped break up the plod.

We left all trees behind pretty quick after the split (and would not see any again along the trail until almost into Patterdale our destination) and wow was it heating up. While still only 15C, we were feeling the sunshine!

A little micro break before the path turned up the incline for the final push over the pass to the Tarn was perfect for some more sunscreen. (You can tell the incline of the path by how we are seating in this photo.) Ankles joined us for this break and we got a bit of the back story on his injuries – soccer – me too!

Nothing to be done but up and over – we were now into Scaredy Bear climb territory – Hailey and I started the hot climb up to the Tarn. Which included lots of those stone steps into the side of the hill for our path and way too many sections that had my heart racing but we made great, steady progress. We were soon in a pretty spot without risk of falling and picking our way through an old rock slide with a smile. (For those from Alberta reading this, it reminded me of climbing through Frank Slide area)

One more final, hot push and we came over the pass at the side of Grisdale Tarn – our meeting spot with Dad and Shar and this side of the hill offered a nice breeze too! We hunkered down for our lunch break. Shoes and socks and knee brace off – felt amazing!

Reunited with Dad and Shar, we had another decision point on the trail today. There are 3 routes to get from here to Patterdale.

  • Striding Edge which is basically a long, exposed path up to a knife’s edge ridge walk then down to town – no thank you from all of us!
  • St Sunday Crag which is a little shorter but still long, exposed path up to a safe, wide ridge for the views then down into town – that was a yes for Shar and Dad.
  • The Valley which is the official route which is a long, decline down through the valley into Patterdale – that was a yes for the Valley Girls, aka Hailey and Brande.

A little photo montage from the Valley! (Highlight was that we could see Shar and Dad make their way up, up and up the climb to St Sunday Crag until there just a little mint and red specs on the hillside!)

A little photo montage from St Sunday Crag!

After a few hours all of us had had our Valley or Ridge thrills, then started to make our way down the long decent (no matter what route you took the toes were feeling it) into Patterdale. We celebrated the end of an amazing day with a cold pint on the patio of The White Lion before making our way to our accommodation.

For this with only a min to spare …

  • Date: Saturday June 18 2025
  • Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
  • Day: 4 of 17
  • To/From: Grasmere / Patterdale
  • Start/Finish time: 940am / 500pm
  • Distance: 13.8km (Hiiker)
  • Steps: 27,934
  • Terrain: rocks, rocks and more rocks (from boulders to pebbles, we had rocks!)
  • Weather: gorgeous 17c with a few wispy clouds mid afternoon for a short time
  • Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: 11sies cookie, 2sies half sandwich, Harry Potter candies, 5sies a pint
  • Dinner: baked potato
  • Tonight’s home away from home: Old Water View (wow what an absolute gem!)
  • Mood: feeling good, tired!
  • Body: feet are good, the calves are tight thanks to all this incline
  • Highlight: feet are good, the calves are tight thanks to all this incline
  • Lowlight: terribly sore tummy this afternoon and evening
  • Deep thoughts: it’s really is the little things

Our accommodation is the Old Water View Inn and wow wow wow. This place is an ode to Wainwright himself and stunning. They have a fantastic back garden with picnic tables over looking the river, full bar, baked potato inspired dinner menu, and a resident Red Squirrel (which is quite the treat to spot!)

That’s off on Day 5 up and over the highest point in the trail today in 25C heat! Yahoo?

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 3 Roswaithe to Grasmere

Day 3 done like dinner. It will be a simple 14.5km jaunt up and over the Lining Crag pass and through the valley to Grasmere, they said! Not so much my bloggy blog friends!

The day kicked off with an amazing breakfast at Yew Craggs BnB and then we donned the full waterproofs – from shoes to pants to jackets in anticipation of the 95% rain all day we were expecting … and nature delivered.

We started with just a short road walk and then were on a beautiful rocky path following a river, with a rock wall and some sheep (of course) beside us through the trees. It was raining but not too hard – so far the path was still a path and not a small river.

In about a couple kilometers the path turned into a mix of grass and rock and we were treated with views of the beautiful Lining Cragg pass we were heading up to find our way to Grasmere valley on the other side.

Lining Cragg was our challenge of the day. Sitting at 1,778 feet (542) metres we knew it would be a bit of an uphill slog to the top but with the temp sitting at a nice 7C, the rain still quite light and little wind we were up for it (pun intended!).

As we walked out of Borrowdale Valley (we’re Roswaithe and a number of other hamlets sit) the path started to introduce our incline. A fantastic gradual incline that was just enough to burn the thighs but not so much that you needed to stop for breaks.

The further into and up the valley we got, the path started to get serious – much more incline, stone steps built in. The slog had arrived but wow what scenery… what you could see anyway. We were pretty socked into the cloud and mists by now making it so quiet except our boots, poles and river below. Ok and a touch of Darth Vader breathing. The down side of your rain coat hood up is how amplified your own breath is – so I really sound like that!?

A couple of false summits later, we were ready to say goodbye to this pass. Nothing like coming around a bend on a high climb thinking you are done just to see another, harder section above. Again and again! Keep on swimming, keep on swimming as Dori would say.

By this time a few of the sections were a little sketchy for Scaredy Bear Brande with some thin paths on the mountain shoulder with drops to the side but I was powering through. That was about to change.

As we came up and around the last false summit, we saw the real one and could not believe it. We watched tiny little people ahead of us climb and scramble up what looked like a stone and grass wall. We checked the guidebook and my digital maps to make sure we were even on the right path. We were.

The lot of us were all a little intimidated. So we took a minute to focus our good thoughts and will power (aka the Strachan family stubbornness and competitiveness) to conquer this thing and watch where climbers before were finding the path. It was not clear at all from our vantage point if there was a path at all. There was … ish. Path-curious at best.

Nothing to do but carry on, so we did!

In a boost of path magic, a spry couple of gents went up just before us and confirmed that after a no path section, then a short section of scrambling (hands required) there were in fact a few stone steps to the left of the river we were following. Yahoo! That was confirmation we were going in the ‘right’ direction (debatable in my opinion) and there would be a few less sketchy spots to look forward too.

Dad out front, we headed up and up. Dad was wholly unimpressed by how dangerous this was for his daughters but I think secretly loved the challenge and tackled it like a boss! I was second last and did have to do a good amount with my poles strapped to my wrists and my hands on the rocks ahead it was well outside this gal’s comfort zone! The trail magic continue in our favour – the wind died down, the rain turned to very light mist and we made it. No mishaps or mistakes. Phew!

Looking back we all agreed it was a tough sketchy but not as sketchy as it first looked if they had just marked the actual path with some blazes so folks weren’t struggling to find the next spot to step.

Up and over it was my newest most favourite valley walk for 9 kilometers! Thanks to the recent heavy rains the river and streams were out in full glory showing off waterfalls!

We were even treated to the most amazing stone slab sidewalk where the water soggy grass / peat would have been an absolute nightmare to cross. The sun was trying to peek out and it looked like shiny sidewalk into the unknown! Loved it.

A little, short break for lunch on a few boulders when the rain let up and we carried on. We were making great time, everyone feeling good (despite Hailey’s absolutely water logged shoes poor thing). I loved loved loved this section. The high mountains to each side, green everywhere, amazing path underfoot that gave you just enough rock and rubble to keep you entertained.

At about a km from our destination we had slowly declined to farm level and started to weave on a stone path between farms and fields.

Once we hit the sweet little town of Grasmere at about km 15, it was about 330 and we were ready for a little look about. This town is like a small Banff or Whistler with lots of outdoor shops, tea rooms and little Inns.

I beelined to the Grasmere Gingerbread shop (gingerbread recipe that has not changed in over 150s of years originating right from Grasmere!) to queue for a few pieces for our crew to try. Glad I tried it, but it was too spicy for me with large chewy chunks of ginger.

I am more into a nice afternoon team with a scone, jam and clotted cream! When in England surely a cream tea is a requirement!

We headed to our home for the night, The Swan Hotel, after visiting a few outdoor shops (we needed new rubber bottoms for our hiking poles that have taken a beating on the rocks) and the most amazing puzzle store ever! Thank goodness I only have a backpack or I would have been bringing home at least a dozen puzzles. For real.

For those who love Cole’s Notes:

  • Date: Tuesday June 17 2025
  • Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
  • Day: 4 of 17
  • To/From: Roswaithe to Grasmere
  • Start/Finish time: 9am / 336pm
  • Distance: 14.5km (15.5km Strava)
  • Steps: 27,386
  • Terrain: rocky (and wet) flat track, stone and rock paths up and up, stones on the steep climb, and a little road walking into Grasmere
  • Weather: cloud and rain to mist all day about 13 degrees at valley level
  • Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
  • Lunch n Snacks: 11sies cookie, baby food tube. 2sies half a sandwich, gummy Harry Potter candies
  • Dinner: ham and fried eggs with chips
  • Tonight’s home away from home: The Swan Hotel, cute little hotel chain with an amazing beer garden out back
  • Mood: feeling proud our crew conquered the pass, wasn’t sure I could do it – scary!
  • Body: good, feet need some love
  • Highlight: the valley between the pass and Grasmere, absolutely amazing!
  • Lowlight: the terrifying scramble section to get up through the pass
  • Deep thoughts: you can do anything for 10 steps, and 10 steps more, and 10 steps more, and …

A nice dinner, a good sleep and we are just heading off for Day 4 now. I will check in again from Patterdale!

Brande