gingerbread

Day 3 done like dinner. It will be a simple 14.5km jaunt up and over the Lining Crag pass and through the valley to Grasmere, they said! Not so much my bloggy blog friends!

The day kicked off with an amazing breakfast at Yew Craggs BnB and then we donned the full waterproofs – from shoes to pants to jackets in anticipation of the 95% rain all day we were expecting … and nature delivered.

We started with just a short road walk and then were on a beautiful rocky path following a river, with a rock wall and some sheep (of course) beside us through the trees. It was raining but not too hard – so far the path was still a path and not a small river.

In about a couple kilometers the path turned into a mix of grass and rock and we were treated with views of the beautiful Lining Cragg pass we were heading up to find our way to Grasmere valley on the other side.

Lining Cragg was our challenge of the day. Sitting at 1,778 feet (542) metres we knew it would be a bit of an uphill slog to the top but with the temp sitting at a nice 7C, the rain still quite light and little wind we were up for it (pun intended!).

As we walked out of Borrowdale Valley (we’re Roswaithe and a number of other hamlets sit) the path started to introduce our incline. A fantastic gradual incline that was just enough to burn the thighs but not so much that you needed to stop for breaks.

The further into and up the valley we got, the path started to get serious – much more incline, stone steps built in. The slog had arrived but wow what scenery… what you could see anyway. We were pretty socked into the cloud and mists by now making it so quiet except our boots, poles and river below. Ok and a touch of Darth Vader breathing. The down side of your rain coat hood up is how amplified your own breath is – so I really sound like that!?

A couple of false summits later, we were ready to say goodbye to this pass. Nothing like coming around a bend on a high climb thinking you are done just to see another, harder section above. Again and again! Keep on swimming, keep on swimming as Dori would say.

By this time a few of the sections were a little sketchy for Scaredy Bear Brande with some thin paths on the mountain shoulder with drops to the side but I was powering through. That was about to change.

As we came up and around the last false summit, we saw the real one and could not believe it. We watched tiny little people ahead of us climb and scramble up what looked like a stone and grass wall. We checked the guidebook and my digital maps to make sure we were even on the right path. We were.

The lot of us were all a little intimidated. So we took a minute to focus our good thoughts and will power (aka the Strachan family stubbornness and competitiveness) to conquer this thing and watch where climbers before were finding the path. It was not clear at all from our vantage point if there was a path at all. There was … ish. Path-curious at best.

Nothing to do but carry on, so we did!

In a boost of path magic, a spry couple of gents went up just before us and confirmed that after a no path section, then a short section of scrambling (hands required) there were in fact a few stone steps to the left of the river we were following. Yahoo! That was confirmation we were going in the ‘right’ direction (debatable in my opinion) and there would be a few less sketchy spots to look forward too.

Dad out front, we headed up and up. Dad was wholly unimpressed by how dangerous this was for his daughters but I think secretly loved the challenge and tackled it like a boss! I was second last and did have to do a good amount with my poles strapped to my wrists and my hands on the rocks ahead it was well outside this gal’s comfort zone! The trail magic continue in our favour – the wind died down, the rain turned to very light mist and we made it. No mishaps or mistakes. Phew!

Looking back we all agreed it was a tough sketchy but not as sketchy as it first looked if they had just marked the actual path with some blazes so folks weren’t struggling to find the next spot to step.

Up and over it was my newest most favourite valley walk for 9 kilometers! Thanks to the recent heavy rains the river and streams were out in full glory showing off waterfalls!

We were even treated to the most amazing stone slab sidewalk where the water soggy grass / peat would have been an absolute nightmare to cross. The sun was trying to peek out and it looked like shiny sidewalk into the unknown! Loved it.

A little, short break for lunch on a few boulders when the rain let up and we carried on. We were making great time, everyone feeling good (despite Hailey’s absolutely water logged shoes poor thing). I loved loved loved this section. The high mountains to each side, green everywhere, amazing path underfoot that gave you just enough rock and rubble to keep you entertained.

At about a km from our destination we had slowly declined to farm level and started to weave on a stone path between farms and fields.

Once we hit the sweet little town of Grasmere at about km 15, it was about 330 and we were ready for a little look about. This town is like a small Banff or Whistler with lots of outdoor shops, tea rooms and little Inns.

I beelined to the Grasmere Gingerbread shop (gingerbread recipe that has not changed in over 150s of years originating right from Grasmere!) to queue for a few pieces for our crew to try. Glad I tried it, but it was too spicy for me with large chewy chunks of ginger.

I am more into a nice afternoon team with a scone, jam and clotted cream! When in England surely a cream tea is a requirement!

We headed to our home for the night, The Swan Hotel, after visiting a few outdoor shops (we needed new rubber bottoms for our hiking poles that have taken a beating on the rocks) and the most amazing puzzle store ever! Thank goodness I only have a backpack or I would have been bringing home at least a dozen puzzles. For real.

For those who love Cole’s Notes:

Date: Tuesday June 17 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 4 of 17
To/From: Roswaithe to Grasmere
Start/Finish time: 9am / 336pm
Distance: 14.5km (15.5km Strava)
Steps: 27,386
Terrain: rocky (and wet) flat track, stone and rock paths up and up, stones on the steep climb, and a little road walking into Grasmere
Weather: cloud and rain to mist all day about 13 degrees at valley level
Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
Lunch n Snacks: 11sies cookie, baby food tube. 2sies half a sandwich, gummy Harry Potter candies
Dinner: ham and fried eggs with chips
Tonight’s home away from home: The Swan Hotel, cute little hotel chain with an amazing beer garden out back
Mood: feeling proud our crew conquered the pass, wasn’t sure I could do it – scary!
Body: good, feet need some love
Highlight: the valley between the pass and Grasmere, absolutely amazing!
Lowlight: the terrifying scramble section to get up through the pass
Deep thoughts: you can do anything for 10 steps, and 10 steps more, and 10 steps more, and …