Coast to Coast Day 16 Egton Bridge to Robin Hoods Bay

July 2, 2025 / runningforthegate / 1 Comment

Finished! We wrapped up our 16th day of walking the 300+ kilometer Coast to Coast Path yesterday afternoon at the ‘finish line’ in Robin’s Hood Bay! What a journey.

We started the day with some buttermilk pancakes (excited for anything other than the 16th English full breakfast) at the Horseshoe Hotel in Egton Bridge. Stepping out of the hotel door and onto the path earlier than usual at about 830am and in fantastic hiking weather!

We had 26.5km to cover – our longest day yet – and the high of 17C, overcast but with little chance of actual rain all day is what I would call perfection.

We started with a short 30min flat walk from Egton Bridge to Grosmont.

When we hit Grosmont, we popped into the local Cooperative Store to pick up lunch and snack provisions for the day. Our timing was epic – a steam train came as we were in town and right next to the train station. I am a huge Harry Potter fan so rather obsessed with steam trains and UK train platforms!

Back at it, the climb out of Grosmont was no joke! Over a mile, on the road and at a 33% grade for much of it, that was some kind of obstacle! Up and up and up we went.

This is where Shar and Dad as Summit Seekers excel. Heads down, they get it done quick. In contrast, this is where Hailey and I, as the (mountain) Valleys Girls, make it happen efficiently while also enjoying the sights – like the snake, frog, and deer – on the way up.

With our big climb out of the way, we had a fantastic morning traversing gravel tracks through fields and moor, and an awesome path through the Great Wood forest which surprised us with a few gems for the day!

A beautiful saying carved into this fallen tree ‘The tumult of my shattered heart is stilled within this sheltered spot. Deep in the bosom of the Wood forgetting and forgot’ by Allen Grants. The National Path symbol, the acorn which we call the Yay-corn was also carved into a nearby stump.

We also had to take a quick stop at The Hermitage for a photo opportunity. This is a very small cave that from what I read may have been a small chapel for a monk or hermit and was carved out of the stone in 1790 by George Club (there is a G+C 1790 carved directly in the stone above the door.

Finally in our way out of the Great Wood, we took in the Falling Moss waterfall and crossed the troll (clearly a friendly one) bridge. At about 1130am now, we took a little micro 11sies break after the bridge and then were our way again! No time to doddle much today.

Leaving the Great Wood, we had a couple kilometers on a very quiet tarmac road – which gave us our last sighting of the Oreo Cookie Cow. These are the Belted Galloway cows but obviously Oreo is much cuter! Usually we only see them in dark chocolate (black) but this field has a milk chocolate one too (brown) and some calves. Adorable.

We then spent the next hour on moors again – it’s been a bit of a heat wave here so the moors were very dry. Still ankle breaking with the uneven ground so you have to watch each step but no one had to worry about stepping in deep peat mud or water.

Before making our last tarmac traverse and then walk along the coast to the finish line, we had our Lunchsies stop at Low Rigg Farm. They offer a pretty neat honesty box set up in an old caravan, picnic tables and more for Coasters as well as their campsite.

Lunch and sweets on board, we were ready to push the last 4 miles to the Bay. The trail was starting to get busier, lots of Coasters come in for the finish today! We made quick work of the road section – made easier thanks to the views of the sea ahead – and soon we were on the cliffs right beside it!

The feeling was amazing! We had just crossed England with our own two feet. The ocean breeze was so refreshing and the views amazing. All of us had pep in our step and smiles plastered on our faces as we snapped too many photos and finished out the last section of our adventure.

As we came into Robin Hood’s Bay at about 4pm, we walked past the Lee Side BnB (our home for the night) so popped into check in. Making sure we had the pebbles we collected day 1 in St Bees, we headed down and down the town’s steep road and cobble stone steps to the Bay.

We walked out onto the beach, congratulated each other and then retuned those pebbles back to the sea as our final Coast to Coast milestone!

A pint at the Bay Hotel and photo under the ‘finish line’ sign was our last to-do.

For those who prefer a half pint of info ..

Date: Tuesday July 1 2025 – Canada Day!
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 16 walking + 1 Rest Day / 17
To/From: Egton Bridge to Robin Hood’s Bay
Start/Finish time: 830am / 5pm
Distance: 28.1km (Hiiker)
Steps: 40,881
Terrain: everything – gravel track, forest track, moors, coastal fields, some roads
Weather: 17c with cloudy skies and a slight breeze. Perfect hiking weather!
Breaky: pancakes at the Horseshoe Hotel in Egton Bridge
Lunch n Snacks: cheese bun, crunchie bar, orange juice, cookie
Dinner: pizza and a pint at Smugglers
Tonight’s home away from home: Lee See BnB which is absolutely fantastic!
Mood: amazing! So excited about this amazing accomplishment while it’s over so soon. That flew by!
Body: feeling good, ready for a couple days of blister heeling but otherwise good!
Highlight: we finished!
Lowlight: we finished already!
Deep thoughts: time goes slow, until it doesn’t

Well that’s a wrap – thanks so much for following along. We are off for a whirlwind 24hrs in York and then back to Canada.

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 15 Blakey Ridge to Egton Bridge

July 1, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Our 15th day walking the Coast to Coast Path is in the books. A 18.5km trek across and down off the moors into Egton Bridge.

We started with a hearty breakfast at The Lion Inn and after a quick snap with the Lion himself we were off on our way to Egton Bridge. Everyone already in a layer of sunscreen and hats, with 3L of water in our packs – we were ready for the mostly wide open moors walk at 28C ahead!

The day started with a few kilometers of road walking – thankful for the wide grassy shoulder beside this busy highway. Not a fantastic way to kick off a beautiful morning but we made quick, happy work of it.

In pretty quick order we turned into the moors on a small path. And for most of the day we were then on either a small path like this our back to the wide gravel tracks we have been on for a few days now up here.

Soon the views started to change. Showing off some farms, hamlets and even the North Sea (the finish line) in the distance. Not just moors everywhere the eye can see anymore. Oh but don’t worry, there were still our constant companions, the sheep!

We were making great progress today, chatting with fellow coasters here and there – including a long chat with Virginia who walked with us for a while. A very nice chap from, you guessed it, Virginia, who has done a number of long distance walks. Great to see him here and there on the trail for the last few days for a nice chat and check in!

At 130 we strolled into Glaisdale, a town about an hour from our destination of Egton Bridge for the day, with high hopes of hitting the local shop for a cold drink or popsicle. Insert major disappointment here! They were closed for their lunch break. What the heck?!? Boo! We took a short micro break in the shade sitting on a concrete step to recover from our sorrow .. and then cracked on. As you do.

After a long descent down down down through No Popsicle Town, we were revived with a walk through a forest!

There were all these cool stones along the path making walking a little more entertaining, we had shade, we had the sound of the river below us. Loved it!

In no time, we came into Egton Bridge and were seated at the Horseshoe Hotel (our home tonight) in their amazing beer garden with cold pints and snacks from our packs.

So quick today we beat our bags! We had to sit in the beautiful gardens with the resident chickens! They are so adorable and very, very smart .. they could hear a crisp (chips) bag from across the garden!

Once our bags arrived, we had showers, had a nice dinner and strolled through the town a little. Our hotel was old, smoking hot, small windows, and no fans … so we stayed out in the slight wind and shade as long as we could!

For those who have the attention span of a chicken…

Date: Monday June 30 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 15 of 17
To/From: Blakey Ridge to Egton Bridge
Start/Finish time: 930am / 3pm
Distance: 18.4km (Hiiker)
Steps: 29,061
Terrain: some tarmac today and a lot of gravel / sand track, with a good section through the forest near the end
Weather: 28c with a slight breeze and a few clouds later in the day
Breaky: full English at The Lion Inn
Lunch n Snacks: sandwich from the Lion Inn, strawberries, OJ, cookies
Dinner: cheeseburger and chips at The Horseshoe Hotel
Tonight’s home away from home: the Horseshoe Hotel
Mood: great, starting to feel the feels about tomorrow being finish day
Body: feeling good, even had the old knee brace off for some of the day today!
Highlight: chickens!
Lowlight: Glaisdale Post Office / Shop closes for lunch
Deep thoughts: everyone has a rhythm, their very own rhythm – listen closely and you may love the beat!

That’s us – off on the 16th day of walking and believe it or not today we hit the Finish Line!

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 14 Clay Top Bank to Blakey Ridge

June 30, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

That’s us, Day 14 on the Coast to Coast Path is a wrap. We walked the 14.5km stretch of gravel track all in the high moors to reach Blakey Ridge. A fantastic day!

We started with an 8am breakfast at the Fox and Hound in Slapewath. A nice little hotel that was quite a ways off the Path so it was odd to not be around Coast to Coasters!

At just after 9am, Ray our private car hire (arranged by Contours Holidays) picked us up and we were zooming back to Clay Bank Top where we left off yesterday. Wow, does a car feel fast when you have only been moving by your own feet for 2 weeks!

By 945am, we were on the trail head and ready to stroll the 14.5km to Blakey Ridge. A bit of an incline to start though the trees, a quick pop over the fence and we were on the stone slabs that would get us to the top of the ridge.

After a short uphill work out and pause to catch our breath, we were at about 370m and that is pretty much where we would stay for the next few hours until we reached Blakey Ridge and The Lion Inn.

The path opened up to a gravel / sand track, that slowly meandered across the moors. We followed this path the whole way – so not tough a job for my navigation skills today!

Spending that much time in the moors with a flat path underfoot meant you could really take a look around at all the different flora and fauna, the colors, just how much the landscape actually changed around us, etc.

So neat to see the rock boundary markers dotting the landscape, and experience a bit more of the Cleveland Way (which continued to overlap much of the Coast to Coast today). We even glimpsed and overlapped the Esk Valley Walk trails, and this area is the Lyke Wake Walk too which follows engraved boundary markers. I am always in awe (and jealous) of the public footpath systems here in the UK. Brilliant!

We understand that much of today’s path is on what was the iron workers railway – used by iron workers and their families exclusively before the motor car and change in industry removed the railway in early 1900. I do not recall seeing any proof of the actual railway history other than how flat and gentle the curves of the path are which would be railroad friendly I am guessing.

A couple of highlights included reaching a trig point (or triangulation station) – a cement triangle at the top of a peak used for navigation and surveying. Hikers love a milestone, so these are always a photo opportunity!

Another big highlight was coming around the last bend in the path, and glimpsing our home away from home for the night – the Lion Inn!

The Lion Inn is ‘a 16th Century free-house located at the highest point of the North York Moors National Park, it stands at an elevation of 1,325 feet and offers breathtaking views over the valleys of Rosedale & Farndale.’ The history of the Inn is very interesting and definitely worth a read if staying here!

I have read a lot about each place we are booked to stay. Helpful things like where it’s located, amenities, directions, etc and also less ‘helpful’ things but so much more interesting … like if they have ghosts!

The Lion Inn has a host of ghosts stories and wasn’t I beyond excited to be handed the keys to Room 5 – the very room that is believed to be most haunted here! Mrs Potts?

Well, maybe it was the long walk in the heat, the couple of pints, a big supper, more likely the fact that my Dad is right across the hall in Room 4 making the little girl in me feel super safe – but no ghostie for me. Boo!

I slept like a comfy little hiker baby. And when I did wake up in the night, I didn’t pick up on a single ghostie vibe. At one point Shar (my roomie tonight) did ask if was ok?! Odd. Now, the ghost in Room 5 is believed to be friendly. Maybe they were just being a good host and letting us get our hiker sleep? Or maybe the thing was standing over me all night …

Only have a sec? I got you …

Date: Sunday June 29 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 14 of 17
To/From: Clay Bank Top / Blakey Ridge
Start/Finish time: 945am / 2pm
Distance: 14.3km (Hiiker)
Steps: 21,753
Terrain: small section of forest track and stone slabs/steps then all gravel track in the moors
Weather: 22C with a slight breeze and a few pretty, whispy clouds
Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
Lunch n Snacks: banana, tuc crackers on trail and then a burger with chips (shared with Shar) at the Lion Inn
Dinner: beef sandwich and chips(shared with Dad) at The Lion Inn
Tonight’s home away from home: the one I was MOST excited about, The Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge in believe to be haunted room 5!
Mood: excited!
Body: feeling good, all my blister buddies seem to be on a little vacation!
Highlight: a full day on the moors
Lowlight: not a tree in sight for just a minute of deep shade
Deep thoughts: doing the same thing over and over and over again is a comfortable routine but even that can chafe

Well that’s us off on Day 15 – catch you when we reach Egton Bridge in 18.5km.

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 13 Ingleby Cross to Clay Top Bank

June 29, 2025June 29, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 13 complete! A 22km stroll up and out of Ingleby Cross and then some more up and overs x4 till we hit Clay Bank Top!

The morning started with a lovely breakfast at the Ingleby House Farm BnB. The fruit salad was epic, the company included a couple from New York doing the Coast to Coast and the coffee and tea were piping hot. Perfect.

After thanking our host (and Shar saying good bye to their dog, Socks) we were on our way. First through the small village of Ingleby Cross on some quiet hamlet roads and a quick stop at the local church to see if we could find more of those wooden church mice carvings.

Too bad, the church was locked up so we took a peek in the windows (spotting the purple pew boxes we had read about in the guidebook – bold colour choice) and got back to the task for the day – walk, walk, walk.

Pretty quickly we were in the trees, and the incline was starting to lean up. A mix of packed path, gravel track and some stone steps and slabs had us up and over the valley in no time at all.

At the top, we were rewarded with views of the path ahead and our first glimpse of our ultimate destination the North Sea in the distance. Crazy to think we are so close now! Hard to see in the photo but there looked to bit a bit of a rainbow across the horizon above the sea ahead – a good sign.

Right near the top of this first climb, the Coast to Coast meets up with the Cleveland Way (another walk on our list to do one day) and we would actually remain with the Cleveland all day. At this point the path gets a little confusing though with so many signs, and we made a wrong turn to get to the right detour!

In my defense, I may have been distracted by the googley eyes someone put on the National Path acorn symbol. I am a sucker for googlies!

A local lady walking her dog told us about the Our Lady’s Chapel just off the path. The origins of this Chapel are interesting but best I can make out it was stood up in the 1300s, is still a working Chapel and still welcomes pilgrims to stay. It was very secluded, the smallest we have see yet but no less beautiful. The stone work!

I had a chance to check the map to guidebook and found out where I went wrong, and a quick way to get us back on tracking using one of the many public footpaths all over the hills.

We made quick work of it and even had another walker (doing the Cleveland Way and the guy we now call Sticks) follow us back to the path as we had all done a little happy detour. We would see Sticks a few more times today as we traded places on the path.

Soon we were on our way to the next big climb of the day across the Scarth Wood Moor. This was a fantastic section of the path – wide open, with huge views of the surrounding rolling country side. The path was a mix of packed sand stone or mill stone slabs. Easy waking!

Leaving Scarth Moor we then hit Clain Wood and made our way back up and up into the forest (and a micro break) before dipping back down for a short time on the road and then again back up and up into the trees again for our next climb of the day over Knolls End via what I think is the Carlton Moor. There are a lot of Moors!

We read that this are has the highest density of Heather growing and one look confirms that. Only some of the Heather was in bloom (an amazing purple) and I can only imagine how beautiful it is when it’s all in bloom. Wow!

We stayed on top of this ridge for a little while enjoying the amazing views as we walked, but soon enough the steep, stone descent was upon us and we made our way down, down and down to both get out of the wind and find our lunch break picnic spot. We were at 13km by now and feeling ready for some fuel.

Over lunch we strategized the rest of our day. Confirming our anticipated pace so I could check in with Ray the private car hire giving us a ride from the trail to our hotel (and back again in the morning) and approach to the next climbs. There are a couple of alternative paths for the next climbs – so we decided to split and do all the routes!

Shar would go up and over (she is a Summit Seeker!) and we would do the shoulder approach around the peaks. We set meeting points after them both as the paths came back together each time to check in. Perfect!

Off Shar went. Some highlights..

Off Dad, Hai and B went. Some highlights …

At about 345pm, right around when planned, we met at the Clay Bank Top. This is literally a car park with a picnic table that people use to access all the many trails in the area.

We had pre arranged to meet our driver here at 5pm (but he confirmed he could come early at 430pm) so we had some post hike snacks at the picnic table to pass the time.

Ray our private car hire was very efficient getting us about 30mins to our stay for the night at the Fox and Hound in Slapewath. A bit of a drive (with some tight hair bending turns for these Canadians) but it’s been a great stay.

We arrived just after 5pm to a fantastic welcome, clean rooms and after some showers enjoyed a pint outside and dinner.

For those with only a wee bit of time…

Date: Saturday June 28 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 13 of 17
To/From: Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top
Start/Finish time: 845am / 4pm
Distance: 21.4km (Hiiker)
Steps: 29,948
Terrain: forest track, a few fields, rocky paths, stone steps and slabs
Weather: 22C with a mix of cloudy and sunny skies, nice breeze with gust on top of the ridges
Breaky: amazing fruit salad, and full English at Ingleby House Farm BnB
Lunch n Snacks: pre packed lunch from Ingleby House Farm BnB with crisps, fruits, strawberries, cookies
Dinner: vegetable lasagna at the Fox and Hound Pub in Slapewath
Tonight’s home away from home: Fox and Hound Hotel in Slapewath (transported to/from by Ray’s Personal Car Service arranged by Contours Walking Compani)
Mood: fantastic!
Body: feeling good. Bill, Bob, Edna and Irene (my blisters) understand the house rules now and are being a little less rambunctious
Highlight: walking in forests again!
Lowlight: horseflies!
Deep thoughts: you don’t what you are missing, if you miss it

That’s us off on Day 14, catch ya on the flip!

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 12 Danby Wiske to Ingelby Cross

June 28, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Well, that’s Day 12 on our Coast to Coast Path adventure in the books. Today was short and flat with one big milestone – crossing the major A16 highway with no bridge and no lights.

We started off with a proper slow morning today. We only had 13+ km to walk and wanted to time it arrival in our new town Ingleby across for lunch when we arrived and the ability to check into our BnB.

At 8am we met for our usual breakfast time and some semblance of full English cooked breakfast for each of us. Then we finished getting gear, packs and such ready before heading out the door of The White Swan for 930am. Skies were overcast but it was a great 15C and no rain expected.

Before leaving town we popped down a block to check out the Danby Wiske Church built in the 1200s. They were loading up the place with fresh flowers for a wedding this weekend – smelt amazing and looked pretty impressive!

Just beside the church is a Campsite which looks amazing and boasts a pretty awesome Tuc shop (little shop) so we ducked in and, wow, it was fantastic! Run on the honest system you could get cold drinks, ice cream (even some for dogs), all kinds of crisps and biscuits, homemade cakes, fruit, camping meals and more. Wow!

Many Coasters walk right through Danby Wiske to instead stay in Ingleby Cross or beyond – this Tuc shop is worth a pop on if you do come through! We grabbed some fruit.

Now ready to roll, we kicked off today’s walk with a stroll out of town on the road. Today’s terrain would be a mix of fields, quite a few gravel tracked and roads. No major milestones or features to see on the way.

At about 12km we hit the petroleum station beside the A16 and popped in for a few snack provisions for the next couple of days where there are no shops available… and a little sugar courage for the A16 crossing. This is the MAJOR highway in this area and it’s 3 lanes at least each direction (plus merge or slip lanes as they call them here) and hella busy!

Without any further excuses we made our way to the shoulder of the A16. The goal was to cross the first side, then pause in the middle shoulder for our chance to cross the next side. We ended up making pretty quick work of it. In about 10minutes and thankful for some natural gaps in traffic – we made it! I sure hope the locals are successful in getting a pedestrian overpass built soon – it is a National Path!

From there we had a quick 1km road walk to our lunch stop, The Joiner Cafe in Ingleby Cross. They had a Brie quiche on special and a load of delicious baking – yummy! We chatted with a few other Coasters who came through.

Then it was up to Ingleby House Farm to check into the most adorable BnB ever – we have our own little cabins! Complete with an outdoor seating area in their amazing garden, fresh scones in our room, tiniest mini fridge with cream for tea and clotted cream for the scones, and the nicer owners!

We all had a chance to freshen up, some of us washed a couple laundry items (the windy days and wind gusts are great for drying laundry) and we had some time at our little garden area before we made our way to dinner.

Tonight we ate at The Blue Bell Inn – the only pub / place to eat and gather in Ingleby Cross. Walking in to this bustling place felt like it was the life blood of this little village. We had great food, a game of Farkle and then headed back to enjoy the rest of the evening at our BnB. We wanted to soak up every minute we could.

For those with preference to peruse..

Date: Friday June 27 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 12 of 17
To/From: Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross
Start/Finish time: 945am / 2pm
Distance: 15.4km (Hiiker)
Steps: 21,466
Terrain: some fields, some roads, a s lots of gravel tracks, and one MAJOR highway to cross (A16!)
Weather: 19C with cloudy skies, gusty winds and clouds and maybe a few mins of rain if that even counts
Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
Lunch n Snacks: delicious lunch at the at The Joiner Cafe in Ingleby Cross
Dinner: chicken tenders and chips at The Blue Bell Inn in Ingleby Cross
Tonight’s home away from home: Ingleby Farm House in the most amazing little cabin like rooms and homemade scones
Mood: fantastic!
Body: feeling good, I have named each of my pesky blisters now so I can curse them each specially and thoroughly
Highlight: Ingleby Farm House!
Lowlight: crossing the A16 motorway like terrifying game of Frogger
Deep thoughts: if you can’t change it, embrace – the story is always good!

Not a super eventful day on the Path today but that’s ok. That means we are rested up for Day 13 that will take us back up and up and up into the hills. Stay tuned!

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 10 Reeth to Richmond

June 26, 2025June 27, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 10 of the Coast to Coast done! A 17km stroll from quiet and oh so quaint Reeth to the bustling, steeped in history Richmond.

We kicked off from The Black Bull Hotel after an underwhelming breakfast – we are spoiled with all the fancy BnB breakfasts so a hotel breakfast seems so boring. No fancy plates and serving where, no sweet proprietor asking you questions and giving route suggestions, etc.

From Reeth we had a mix of foot paths and touch of road to take us out of the hamlet area. All super flat to wake up the joints. We were trying to pass and stay ahead of a very large Coaster group – made easy when they took a wrong turn at the River Swale Bridge had to circle back. Oops!

About 40mins into the day, we passed the Marrick Prior built in the 1100s and were keen to check that out as a little micro stop. It has been turned into an Outdoor Activity Centre with no public access so we could not go inside but it looked pretty neat and massive!

No matter, we would be getting to know the Nuns who worked there pretty well soon – our next milestone was up and up the Nun Steps. A series of over 375 stone steps they built to get up to the top of the next ridge. More like a stepped stone pathway and wow much have been so much work!

Despite not even being hot out yet and the steps being in shade through what’s called Steps Forest, they were work and ended in even more grassy hill to climb at the top. Blood pumping and sweat dripping now. Let’s go!

Our next milestone of the day was Elaine’s Farmhouse Kitchen at Nun Cote Farm & Campsite. We had heard she made amazing food – so instead of ordering a packed lunch from the hotel, I called Elaine the night before and she agreed to make us 4 ham and cheese sammies that we could pick up as we walked by their farm in the morning.

We hit the hamlet of Marske at about 1030 and made our way to Elaine’s farm to pick them up. A short 10 min detour off the path. She even had some chips and cold drinks we could add. If we weren’t so fresh off breakfast, I would have definitely had a tea and scone – her baking looked amazing! A few other Coasters were there having a treat and tea.

Leaving out her back gate, we immediately rejoined the Coast to Coast and made our way to the next milestone in Marrick a few more miles ahead.

Marrick is another hamlet and boasts the St Edmunds Church which was built in the 11 century and they host an extensive honesty box for walkers. Everything from water to chocolate biscuits (bars) to crisps (chips) and even plasters (bandaids) and supports (tensor bandages) all for donation the church. They even have a little machine you can self-tap your donation amount with a credit card!

We each grabbed a little treat, tapped the credit card, and then had our lunch break right there in the church grounds with a couple other walkers. As we sat a number of other walkers came through to enjoy the honest box – they are the ultimate trail magic!

From Marrick, we were down to our last milestone of the day – Richmond. With some pep in the step from a great lunch break and hopes we might catch a movie tonight, we set off at a great pace. It’s like we have been doing this for days and we found our groove.

Quick work is an understatement. We had great paths underwood with some fields, forest track (the first forest we have actually walk through to be honest) and farm track making for quick walking. Not to many climbs but some undulation which is perfect for walkers to mix it up a bit on the ole hips!

We arrived in Richmond to our home for the night, The Buck – looking much better from the outside than sadly it offered inside.

For those who like a short story…

Date: Wednesday June 25 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 10 of 17
To/From: Reeth to Richmond
Start/Finish time: 921am / 3pm
Distance: 17.1km (Hiiker)
Steps: 29,859
Terrain: a bit of road (including two, long and steep descents into towns – ouch), lots of fields and gates, and 375 stone steps built by nuns!
Weather: humid but not too hot at about 17C overcast with maybe 4 mins of rain
Breaky: avocado toast and scrambled eggs with tea
Lunch n Snacks: delicious ham and cheese sandwich’s from Elaines Farmhouse Kitchen, chocolate, fruit
Dinner: pizza
Tonight’s home away from home: The Buck in Richmond (ugh unfortunately it great at all)
Mood: great, another fantastic day
Body: feeling good, just need this baby two to get the ‘get in line’ memo
Highlight: a movie!
Lowlight: The Buck Inn
Deep thoughts: it can’t all be roses, but even dandelions are better than cow plops

After a quick freshen up, we headed out to check out this little city and see a movie! The Station is an old Train Station transformed into a cinema, art gallery, brew hall, cafe and more. We saw How To Train Our Dragon and had the place to ourselves. Feet up, popcorn in!

That’s us kicking off Day 11 – check in soon!

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 9 Keld to Reeth

June 25, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 9 in the books! A fantastic low route ramble between hamlets and a stop for tea!

We left the Keld Lodge after an amazing cooked breakfast – today was only 17.5km of mostly flat walking so we were in no rush at all. A few chats with the staff, an extra cup of coffee or tea or two. A great, relaxed good morning.

During breakfast we had been closely watching the weather across the valley views to see just what she might get up to today. We were prepped for the predicted 95% chance of rain ALL day with gusting winds up to 35km/h but as we watched, a change was a coming! By the time we wrapped up breakfast, it has moved from dark sideways rain to misty sun showers. No way, could we be so lucky? Yup!

By the time we were out the door, no waterproof pants required (but tucked just in our packs close at hand as to not risk weather’s wrath) and just our waterproof jackets on for the mist that was still coming down. No one loved walking in waterproofs head to toe – so we were feeling pretty blessed for the twist!

Off we go! A very short road walk and then we were on fantastic little path farther down and across the valley. Lots of other walkers leaving the Keld Lodge this morning so we adjusted our pace to have the path to ourselves accordingly.

As always on the Coast to Coast, what goes down must come up, we were soon hoofing it up a pretty decent incline out of the deep valley to shoulder the hills. A tough but short slog that was reward with good views and a waterfall and our favorite.. a bridge!

As the sun started to peak out a bit more, the valley opened up and we began our walk along the River Swale. Which we call the River Swell because it’s just so pretty.

The Swell River would keep us company most of the path and right into Reeth today. We were technically walking some of the Swaledale Valley walk as it overlaps the Coast to Coast Low Route (which we were on today). We chose the Low Route for a chance to see some of the hamlets dotting the landscape, a chance for a lunch stop and ultimately avoid the wind gusts expected on top of the wide ridge walk. Shar was caught looking longingly at the ridge lines above once in a while …

There was so much to look at between the bridges, the changes in the river, adorable little lambs and a lot of old stone structures – we assume most were houses at one point when this valley was super busy with led mining far in the past but that’s a guess.

At about mid-day and mid-point on today’s path we walked into the lovely hamlet of Gunnerside and found our way to the Ghyllfoot Tearoom for lunch. What a cute little cafe, and our host was lovely. We could not resist having a cream tea – scone with clotted cream and jam. Yummy!

After lunch, and Shar getting maximum pets in for the two Scotty Dogs (Archie and Max) on the Cafe’s patio, we continued on our way. The trek out of Gunnarside was up and up and up to above the valley. Longer slog than expected but we did have some clotted cream to work off!

Once up above the valley, we enjoyed really easy walking on a soft grass path for quite some time on the edge of the moor with sheep for company and great views. We passed through a couple more very quiet hamlets before making our walk down, down and down back to beside the River Swale on our last few kilometers into Reeth.

One highlight at the end of the day … I did mention we liked bridges … was the swing bridge just as you come into Reeth. Technically we did not need to cross this one but we could not resist giving it a go, just to come back again. The water at this part of the river can rise to a terrifying 3meters in 20mins according to the info board by the bridge!

Arrived in Reeth, we popped into a couple of small shops that were still open – the post office / local store and a crafters cooperative – then made our way for an end of day pint!

For those who like it short …

Date: Tuesday June 24 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 9 of 17
To/From: Keld / Reeth
Start/Finish time: 945am / 415pm
Distance: 20.0km (Hiiker)
Steps: 30,642
Terrain: some road, some grassy paths, lots of fields and rocky paths, a load of gates!
Weather: cool 15c with some wind ( a few gusts) and most no rain
Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
Lunch n Snacks: amazing jam and clotted cream scone and Yorkshire tea at Ghyllfoot Tearoom in Gunnarside!
Dinner: chicken parm and a pint
Tonight’s home away from home: Black Bull Hotel in Reeth
Mood: great, fantastic trail day
Body: feels good, the blisters starting misbehaving again and I have more heat rash than I care for but overall great
Highlight: tearoom for lunch!
Lowlight: the large groups of Coasters that left at the same time as us this morning making it too busy to kick off
Deep thoughts: don’t get so comfortable that you forget to look around, to appreciate, to pay attention

Well that’s us, off on Day 10 – check in from Richmond our next destination!

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 8 Kirkby Stephen to Keld

June 24, 2025 / runningforthegate / 1 Comment

Day 8 is a wrap and we loved it. About 20km from Kirkby Stephen to Keld is such a great trail and while the rain held off (thank you), his bestie Mr Wind did not. Wow!

We kicked the day off with a fantastic breakfast at 8am at the Bollam Cottage BnB, some time with the BnB resident and adorable dog-dog, and then headed out the door for about 845am. A quick stroll to the local Co-Op for lunch provisions and we were officially on trail for about 930am.

Today’s trail started with a nice footpath over Frank’s Bridge and then through the edge of Stephen Kirkby town before turning up and up and up and quiet road then a gravel track through a load of pastures. At about 3 miles we left the track and started up and up fields and moors to the Nine Standards, our first milestone of the day.

Very near the top of the ridge, we hit the stone slab sidewalks the Coast to Coast Path team (thanks whoever you are!!) have been laying down across the peat to make for easier walking, helping walkers find their way, and most importantly saving the peat from the extensive damage all our feet can do. I cannot imagine the work it takes to make these ‘sidewalks’ happen. And they are recycled stones no longer require from the mill so that’s pretty neat too. Some have markings!

These slabs of magic take probably hours off walking the path otherwise. Picking your way through peat to avoid wet feet, losing a boot in the mud, breaking poles and rolling ankles is soul sucking. And the whole time you are sort of going off route as you try to find the best spot to step, making navigation a real challenge. Shar and I had hours of peat walking on our East Highland Way hike in Scotland a couple years ago and I swore I was giving up hiking forever .. drama!

Up and up on the new Sidewalk O Slab we made great time and were soon high enough to be blown about pretty good by the wind, and reached the Nine Standards!

The Nine Standards are literally 9 large rock cairns. We read they may have been built for navigation, to make a border, or to distract raiders. Believed to be over 400 years old – showing up on original survey maps as navigation landmarks. You can see them from way down in the town of Kirkby Stephen as 9 small points on the ridge – so it was neat to finally be among them after 2 days of seeing them up there. Much bigger than they seemed.

The wind was nuts up there – blowing anything away and making walking look more like a late pub night stumble than an athletic endeavor. We hid behind one of the Nine Standards for a quick micro break before we headed out for the lengthy traverse across the ridge with Gusty McGusterton.

The Sidewalk O Slab and some little wooden bridges continued for some time – look behind us in the above photo to see just how far it stretches. When available we made quick work of the path, working harder staying on it and upright than making progress sometimes. In the gaps of slabs, we picked our way across the mix of wet and dry ground as best we could while looking forward to the next sidewalk section.

You can see where the Coast to Coast Path team have dropped pallet after pallet of the stone slabs along the trail – making for very easy navigation. When those are all installed this section of the day will be perfection!

As we stared to descend into the valley, the wind got a little less gusty but didn’t let up completely. We were being nudged by ole Gusty vs pushed around – an improvement. Although the sun was starting to peak through by now, we kept the waterproof jackets on as wind breakers!

We walked a half dozen more kilometers to Ravenseat Farm. They often offer a remote tea house but it’s currently closed for lambing season. Their picnic tables are out though for walkers to take their lunch. We took advantage of their picnic table after getting the most adorable greeting by the family dog. A wee Jack Russel!

After a fantastic lunch – despite the winds – we made the last few kilometers along an absolutely fantastic path to Keld.

We had rounded the shoulder of the ridge so stepped mostly out of the wind and the sun had decided to finish the end of the day with us! The farmer had put down slabs for us in the worst spots, the walking was easy and the views were fantastic. Always a little more pep in the step when the end of day pint is near.

Shar named this last section of the walk the ‘Sheepy Hallow’ instead of the Sleepy Hollow thanks to the a bit ominous greeting of a sheep’s skull on the gate. Well named!

For those who don’t have time to faff about reading long blogs:

Date: Monday June 23 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 8 of 17
To/From: Stephen Kirkby to Keld
Start/Finish time: 845am / 330pm
Distance: 18.2 (Hiiker)
Steps: 28,370
Terrain: some road, some field, a lot of peat and a lot of stone slabs
Weather: cool 14c with WIND
Breaky: scrambled eggs on toast, tea
Lunch n Snacks: yummy multigrain but with cheese, banana, cookie
Dinner: steak and ale pie, pints
Tonight’s home away from home: Keld Lodge
Mood: good, despite the wind we had such a fantastic day!
Body: feel amazing, not a pain. My baby toes are now behaving – good little piggies
Highlight: the Sidewalk O Slab
Lowlight: the Ravenseat Tea room closed, we heard her scones are epic!
Deep thoughts: sometimes it’s a gentle breeze and sometimes it’s a gust

That’s us cracking onto Reeth today! B

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 7 Orton to Kirkby Stephen

June 22, 2025June 22, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 7 was fantastic! Today we walked the 20km from Orton to Kirkby Stephen and it was such a smooth day – from path to views to how the body is feeling after 7 days on trail!

We left The George Hotel after a nice continental breakfast at about 830am and popped by the local shop just up the block for provisions for the day. The lady running the shop was so super kind – we even scored some fresh made baguette sandwiches! Yummy.

Not wanting to back track to pick up the Coast to Coast Path via the road, I downloaded the local public bridlepath map for the area and we found a nice short village walk, little lane tucked very closely between two house, and a couple of fields – the mainstay of today’s walk – and we were back on the path just after 9am! Few, I was either going to get it right and we would join in Scarside (one word) or totally wrong and we would end up back in Scar Side (two words). Seriously, no other names avail?

This must be the hour to start off each day! We saw the outline of more Coasters in and among the trails in the distance than we have any other day so far.

Seattle – a very nice guy from, you guessed it, Seattle who also booked with Contours the same company we booked with so we will see him all about the trip. He has done quite a few of the long distance paths solo and with his wife.
The ‘Couple of Couples’ – two English couples we met out of the gate Day 1 that are walking to Stephen Kirkby. These couples have done many, many other long distance walks around UK and were great to chat with as we are already thinking about what walk to do next! We had the pleasure of running into the Couple of Couples much of the day today.
In the distance we also glimpsed Doc. An older gentleman who is wild camping and just quietly present in his turtle neck tech shirt and waterproof pants everyday. Doesn’t say much but will quietly reply a ‘hi’ and smile if you kick it off. So I do! Each time! He reminds me of a pensive doctor that would work for a little remote hamlet somewhere.

Back on the Path, the day truly started with fields and another and another! I absolutely LOVE this kind of walking. The sun was out (already 22C), slight breeze, blue skies, and in the distance you can see the gate or fence you need to get to – and repeat! Little finish lines all day along the way.

We took a couple of micro breaks along the way when we found shade – a standing break, short, drink some electrolytes, put on more sunscreen and ‘just keep swimming’. The temps were quickly 24C which does make for pretty hot walking with shade so rare in the fields and moors. More breeze please!

At one point my dream of being a long distance path guide came true (winky) … we were crossing the moors where the guidebook says it’s particularly tricky to find the trail and I was all over it! We helped a couple re route as we made sure we too were on the correct path. Then another couple followed along too. Dad’s now calling me Dora the Explorer! Yah!

After a good push through the moors – we took our 11sies break on some well placed rocks (aka a natural bench to hikers) with some sheep for company. We were expecting the weather to change on us – thundershower warnings for later that evening and rain predicted at 90% for the rest of the afternoon – so we wanted to get in at least one sit down break before the rain started and kept us on our feet for the rest of the day.

We did get the rain we expected but not nearly as hard as we thought – it was the ‘I sorta need a rain jacket but it’s too warm in my rain jacket’. So the whole time wearing it you debate taking it off and the whole time not wearing you debate if you need it. Hiker problems, am I right?!

Just over half way, we hit the most Hobbit-like picturesque bridge you ever did see, Smardale Bridge. I swear I could see Gandalf pulling away in his cart making shapes with his pipe smoke. Merry and Pippin making jokes, laughing too hard, half singling jingles – ok that last bit was just me and Shar.

The rain seemed to have stopped for a short while so we took our lunch break here. Sitting along the fantastic old bridge and greeting Coast to Coasters as they passed by.

Right after lunch we had a long ascent out of the Cheese and Salami Shire and got to glimpse a couple of cool things across the ravine beside us. There was an aqueduct way in the distance and some sort of fortification built into the side of the ‘cliff’. Making up stories of what that could have been for or built by, we trudged up the incline to the top of the hills ready to tackle yet more fields.

We were making great progress and had managed to avoid the rain for a few more kilometers of fields and moor – loving the drop in temperature we were moving at a quick pace. That would end just as we were crossed a field for a tunnel under the rail line which we use to put back on the gear and of course a little photo opportunity!

The day ended with some more fields and a little bit of road walking in town and we arrived at our new best time (3pm) at the Bollam Cottage BnB. A little early for check in we debated dropping our bags and heading the couple of block to main street when our most amazing BNB lady offered to let us in a bit early (check in was at 4pm). Yes please! Hot tea, chilled water and cake to welcome us. Yes, yes please!

Refreshed, we made quick work of getting to our rooms and grabbing our dirty laundry to hit the laundrette – all of us keen to shower when we had clean clothes to put on later that eve. After the short couple blocks walk to town centre, we found the laundrette behind the fish and chip takeaway (literally the directions we were given) and clean clothes were ours!

We grabbed some dinner and a pint at the Pennine Inn. I had a local made steak and ale pie – called the Tipsy Cow Pie (love that!) – which was delicious. Then we headed back for showers and to enjoy the visitor’s lounge in our BnB for a couple games of Quirkle and a glass of wine.

For those with only the shake of a lamb’s tail…

Date: Saturday June 21 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 7 of 17
To/From: Orton / Kirkby Stephen
Start/Finish time: 830am / 3pm
Distance: 21.2km (Hiiker)
Steps: 32,931
Terrain: fields, some moors, and some more fields, baby bit of road walking
Weather: 24c with some cloudy and rain
Breaky: continental
Lunch n Snacks: salami and cheese baguette, banana, cookies, strawberries
Dinner: Tipsy Cow (steak and ale pie), chips and mushy peas, cold pint
Tonight’s home away from home: Bollam Cottage BnB (the most amazing so far, the decor this place has is nothing I have seen before and everything I want)
Mood: feeling good!
Body: feeling good, my feet are ready for a little break – switch the blister bandaids, etc.
Highlight: Gandalf’s Bridge (aka Smardale) and clean clothes
Lowlight: the thunderstorm did not play out as the warnings and sky was promising!
Deep thoughts: every fate opens and closes

Enjoying our rest day today (in their amazing lounge after a lazy morning exploring the town). See ya tomorrow!

Brande

PS We saw Ankles in Kirkby Stephen today and he is doing great! Got some new supports for those pesky ankles and continues to make his way. Such a nice chap. We are day behind now with our rest so likely won’t see him again, best of luck James!

Coast to Coast Day 6 Brampton to Orton

June 22, 2025June 22, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 6 wrapped on Friday for us and it was oddly a really tough one. Uphills felt harder than they should have and downhills longer than they were, for all of us today. All the Coasters we talked to said the same – odd!

We kicked off the day with a delicious cooked breakfast at the Mardale Inn in Brampton at 830am – chatting with a fellow Coast to Coaster we have nicknamed Seattle. He told us about a public bridlepath (walk way) that can be used to pick up the Path again instead of the 2.4km back on the road. Yes please!

We didn’t need to pack lunches today as the small village of Shap was about half way and boats a cafe, chippy chop, a Co-op grocery and more so we set off right after breakfast.

Making quick work of the public bridleways (and a stop to look inside the very old Brampton Church), we were on the C2C in no time and heading towards our first milestone at about the 4.2km mark, Shap Abbey. Founded in the late 12th century it is amazing what is left to see – from the altar, the main entrance, the kitchens and more. Lots of conversation about Pillars of the Earth by Ken Follett. (A book that you must ready if you have not already – fantastic!)

Before leaving Shap Abbey, we took a little 11sies. Shar and Dad both did a little preventative toe / blister surgery. The path today was mostly grass and while that sounds like such a break from rocks (and it is) that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s always easier. The feet slide a little more inside your shoes when you are walking down and up on angled fields, making what might have been a nagging spot on rocky climbs now a yelling spot on grass.

Just 4 more kilometers left to Shap for lunches, we cracked on. The temps were into the 20C plus now and everyone was sun screened up, hats on but still feeling that heat as we walked more fields and moors and roads.

Arriving in Shap, we swung by the Co-op for lunch stuff and found a great picnic spot in the park. Friendly folks in Shap walked by saying hi as we ate, one chap (now forever known as The Shap Chap) came on by and near joined us for lunch. By the time he was done sharing his life story with us – and Shar was done petting his cute and calm little Jack Russell dog – he actually said ‘right now that I have told you me life story, I will carry on’. And off he went. The best!

With 12.9km or more left to do, we finished lunch and started our ‘slog’ to Orton (our destination for the night).

We had a good mix of fields, moors, gravel track and some road walking but no big views like we had for the last few days – that took some getting used to. The transition from Lake District to Yorkshire Moors felt too quick. There was still lots to look at mind you, just not as ‘big’ as in the Lakes.

At some point we passed this huge quarry with the most dramatic signs I have ever seen – Quick sand? Dark slurry sludge? Cold Water Can Kill? I thought I was dramatic! Well done on the sign job there Stan.

We put our heads down – some of us put our headphones in and tuned into a podcast or audio book – and made it happen. Stopping anytime where was a tree for some ‘deep shade’ for a micro break to cool down, sunscreen up and carry on. The tan lines on our crew are getting entertaining!

After not too long – albeit it felt long – we were in the Orton vincinity. Orton is boasted about being on the Coast to Coastp Path directly. However, I am not sure what map we were or were not using because Orton Scar sure is but Orton is not. We used some of the amazing public bridleways (those well sign posted walks that are everywhere in this amazing landscape) to make our way the short distance off path to Orton for the night.

Before checking in at the George Hotel, we first grabbed a pint and enjoyed their beer garden at a shady table to cool down. Reading up what we could while we sipped to see if we would finally get some ghostie experiences tonight at our home away from home. Nope!

We had dinner right at the George Hotel and then us sisters walked down to the old Orton Church to check it out. Wow, it did not disappoint. What an amazing building and cemetery. They were teaching people how to ring the bells! People still pull on ropes to make the bells happen and it looks like tough work – no automation here. So cool!

For the ‘give me the quick version’ peeps

Date: Friday June 20 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 6 of 17
To/From: Brampton to Orton
Start/Finish time: 930am / 530am
Distance: 21.3km (Hiiker)
Steps: 32,871
Terrain: fields, up fields and down fields, and angled fields and more fields, and a few roads too
Weather: 24C toasty!
Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
Lunch n Snacks: strawberries, meat and potato pasty, cookies, banana
Dinner: pepperoni pizza and pints
Tonight’s home away from home: The George Hotel with a fantastic beer garden, crooked floors, and odd steps up and down into rooms that should be on the same level
Mood: grateful to be done the day
Body: feeling good, feet a little grumpy
Highlight: Shap Abbey – love!
Lowlight: the slog feeling today (and no ghost at the hotel)
Deep thoughts: easier is not easier