Coast to Coast Day 11 Richmond to Danby Wiske

June 27, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

That’s Day 11 done and dusted on the Coast to Coast Path. A dead flat stroll from Richmond city to Danby Wiske – with views of the Richmond Castle Walls as we left town!

We kicked off the day with a breakfast at The Buck, and then visited a few shops in time to pick up things we needed – like blister bandaids (I am going though mine quick), a new charging cord (I left mine in a BnB), a new book for Shar, and provisions for lunch.

At just before 10am we kicked on the Hiiker digital map, let the family know we were heading out and that’s what we did! Down Richmond town centre, across the river at Richmond Falls and again made Swale River our bestie (on the left this time) for much of the morning.

The first part of the walk was a fantastic path though a large park in the city outskirts – we don’t get to see much forest on the Coast to Coast so any chance is welcome!

Just out of town we had the ‘pleasure’ of the path running through a lengthy field with a bull in it AND it ran along side a rather obvious sewage plant. Lovely! We did not see the bull – phew! We did smell the sewage – ew!

At double time we were out of that field of stank in no time, and entered another long forest stroll. Looks like this area is used to train troops. You could see a couple of signs off with land nav exercise info but we did not see any actual troops in our travels.

Hoping we were done with Warning Signs for the day, we started the more expected landscape of the day – fields!

Kicking it off with my most favourite, a walk through a wheat field. You can take the girl out of Alberta, Canada but … well, you know how the saying goes.

(If your look very close in this wheat field photo you will meet Melvin – please pronounce with a lisp. He is a wool felted Beaver that Shar made to give away on our travels to say ‘thanks from the Canadians’ but promptly fell in love with his oddities, frizzy mullet and cuteness and now he is her traveling companion. You may spot Melvin from time to time in other photos!)

Oh not quite done with those Warning Signs yet. As we passed by the Catterick Bridge town there was a couple of old quarries now full with water … where we learned swimming in cold water can kill. Did you know? The signs here are epic! It looks like a movie poster.

At just over half way we walked into Bolton-on-Swale (not Brompton-on-Swale a hamlet also very close) and found our way to St Mary’s Church which offers a cool respite from the heat, and a cold drinks and chocolate honesty box.

To our absolute surprise they also had a little kitchen to make tea and coffee, a washroom and not just your run of the mill honesty box! The drinks and chocolate were in a fridge, and they offered a bunch of other food items too. The church also has a little table and chairs to enjoy it at. Yes please! We put in our donation, each grabbed a cold drink or chocolate, and sat down at that lovely table to enjoy our lunch break.

As we sat a few other Coast to Coast walkers came in to check out the church, honesty box and washroom. Striking up a chat with each around the usual ‘where are you from’, ‘did you walk from x town today’, ‘are you doing the whole C2C’, etc. Loads of locals lately, a lot of Australians and one US guy. We have yet to meet any other Canadians.

One couple told us that they were chatting with an older, local chap who said to look for wooden church mice in the church. He said when the wood working was being done, a few were added in as a little secret. A look about and we found quite a few! How exciting!

Thanks to Google, we found out they were made by a woodworker from mid 1800s call the Mouseman (Robert Thompson). He added these mousey touches to wood working in churches and abbeys all around the Yorkshire Dales area. In fact, the tradition lives on and you can buy Mouseman things, still find it in new works, etc. I will be looking at the next few churches a little more closely. Adorable!

After an amazing break and making sure we left our little church spot better than we found it, we had a few more fields to cross and a few more friends to meet, this time of the bovine variety. Shar named her Ellis and we almost had to leave Shar behind she was so enthralled. Eventually she realized we had walked away and came running.

Then it was our 5.2km tarmac section – a couple of us put our ear pods in and tuned into a podcast, and a couple of us had a nice long chatty chat to pass the time. It was a very, very quiet road so that was fantastic. I think we saw a couple of cars, a frog, a caterpillar, and a woman on a bike (twice) the whole time – so more like a path than a road really.

This tarmac route is what I have as the original C2C route in the Trailblazer Edition10 and Harvey Maps. However we noticed what was called the alternative through Ellerton is the way the brand new C2C signs are pointing to follow. So this Ellerton route is likely the new way to go and avoids some tarmac walking but its description in the books does not sound any better. While tarmac can be fast walking it can also be soul sucking especially on black tarmac, in boots, and in the heat! Maybe the C2C Team has made further adjustments to this new Ellerton way.

After the tarmac, we pass through a few more fields, by a few more farms and just like that we had arrived in Danby Wiske.

As soon as we turned into town we could see our home away from home, The White Swan in the distance on the edge of the village green.

For those short on time …

Date: Thursday June 26 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 11 of 17
To/From: Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross
Start/Finish time: 921am / 420pm
Distance: 22.9km (Hiiker)
Steps: 30,183
Terrain: lots and lots of fields, and a good time on the tarmac today too (boo)
Weather: 17C with cloudy skies, gusty winds and clouds but no rain
Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
Lunch n Snacks: ham and cheese baguette, prawn crisps, cherries, donut
Dinner: fisherman’s pie with veggies
Tonight’s home away from home: The Swan Inn (delightful!)
Mood: great!
Body: feeling good but the feet are trying to revolt of course
Highlight: honesty box and lunch at St Mary’s Church
Lowlight: 5.2km on tarmac
Deep thoughts: if you feel it, address it

That’s a wrap on 11, and we are about to set out on Day 12.

Brande

Coast to Coast Day 6 Brampton to Orton

June 22, 2025June 22, 2025 / runningforthegate / Leave a comment

Day 6 wrapped on Friday for us and it was oddly a really tough one. Uphills felt harder than they should have and downhills longer than they were, for all of us today. All the Coasters we talked to said the same – odd!

We kicked off the day with a delicious cooked breakfast at the Mardale Inn in Brampton at 830am – chatting with a fellow Coast to Coaster we have nicknamed Seattle. He told us about a public bridlepath (walk way) that can be used to pick up the Path again instead of the 2.4km back on the road. Yes please!

We didn’t need to pack lunches today as the small village of Shap was about half way and boats a cafe, chippy chop, a Co-op grocery and more so we set off right after breakfast.

Making quick work of the public bridleways (and a stop to look inside the very old Brampton Church), we were on the C2C in no time and heading towards our first milestone at about the 4.2km mark, Shap Abbey. Founded in the late 12th century it is amazing what is left to see – from the altar, the main entrance, the kitchens and more. Lots of conversation about Pillars of the Earth by Ken Follett. (A book that you must ready if you have not already – fantastic!)

Before leaving Shap Abbey, we took a little 11sies. Shar and Dad both did a little preventative toe / blister surgery. The path today was mostly grass and while that sounds like such a break from rocks (and it is) that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s always easier. The feet slide a little more inside your shoes when you are walking down and up on angled fields, making what might have been a nagging spot on rocky climbs now a yelling spot on grass.

Just 4 more kilometers left to Shap for lunches, we cracked on. The temps were into the 20C plus now and everyone was sun screened up, hats on but still feeling that heat as we walked more fields and moors and roads.

Arriving in Shap, we swung by the Co-op for lunch stuff and found a great picnic spot in the park. Friendly folks in Shap walked by saying hi as we ate, one chap (now forever known as The Shap Chap) came on by and near joined us for lunch. By the time he was done sharing his life story with us – and Shar was done petting his cute and calm little Jack Russell dog – he actually said ‘right now that I have told you me life story, I will carry on’. And off he went. The best!

With 12.9km or more left to do, we finished lunch and started our ‘slog’ to Orton (our destination for the night).

We had a good mix of fields, moors, gravel track and some road walking but no big views like we had for the last few days – that took some getting used to. The transition from Lake District to Yorkshire Moors felt too quick. There was still lots to look at mind you, just not as ‘big’ as in the Lakes.

At some point we passed this huge quarry with the most dramatic signs I have ever seen – Quick sand? Dark slurry sludge? Cold Water Can Kill? I thought I was dramatic! Well done on the sign job there Stan.

We put our heads down – some of us put our headphones in and tuned into a podcast or audio book – and made it happen. Stopping anytime where was a tree for some ‘deep shade’ for a micro break to cool down, sunscreen up and carry on. The tan lines on our crew are getting entertaining!

After not too long – albeit it felt long – we were in the Orton vincinity. Orton is boasted about being on the Coast to Coastp Path directly. However, I am not sure what map we were or were not using because Orton Scar sure is but Orton is not. We used some of the amazing public bridleways (those well sign posted walks that are everywhere in this amazing landscape) to make our way the short distance off path to Orton for the night.

Before checking in at the George Hotel, we first grabbed a pint and enjoyed their beer garden at a shady table to cool down. Reading up what we could while we sipped to see if we would finally get some ghostie experiences tonight at our home away from home. Nope!

We had dinner right at the George Hotel and then us sisters walked down to the old Orton Church to check it out. Wow, it did not disappoint. What an amazing building and cemetery. They were teaching people how to ring the bells! People still pull on ropes to make the bells happen and it looks like tough work – no automation here. So cool!

For the ‘give me the quick version’ peeps

Date: Friday June 20 2025
Trail: Coast to Coast Path, England
Day: 6 of 17
To/From: Brampton to Orton
Start/Finish time: 930am / 530am
Distance: 21.3km (Hiiker)
Steps: 32,871
Terrain: fields, up fields and down fields, and angled fields and more fields, and a few roads too
Weather: 24C toasty!
Breaky: full English / cooked breakfast
Lunch n Snacks: strawberries, meat and potato pasty, cookies, banana
Dinner: pepperoni pizza and pints
Tonight’s home away from home: The George Hotel with a fantastic beer garden, crooked floors, and odd steps up and down into rooms that should be on the same level
Mood: grateful to be done the day
Body: feeling good, feet a little grumpy
Highlight: Shap Abbey – love!
Lowlight: the slog feeling today (and no ghost at the hotel)
Deep thoughts: easier is not easier

We all turned in pretty early after that – tired from what felt like such a tough day, and ready to wake up refreshed to do it all again!

Brande

Absorbing All Things Endinburgh

August 2, 2018February 22, 2022 / runningforthegate / 2 Comments

We have had 2 amazing days in Edinburgh! With so much history in every stone, a story about every street and the amazing back drop of Arthur’s Seat – how can you not love this place?!

We started our first day with a much too fancy Scottish breakfast at the Delgarven House Hotel on Kilwinning. I think the breakfast room must also be used for wedding receptions. We did our best to get our fancy on in our travel clothes eating sausages and beans!

From there we caught a taxi to the train, the train from Kilwinning for Glasgow Central Station, took a quick walk from there to the Queen Street Station and then a train to Edinburgh Waverly Station! A quick 1.5hr travel time for 20pounds to discover an awesome historic city – perfect!

Once in Edinburgh we found our way in no time to MacBackpackers Hostel right on the Royal Mile! This is the first hostel experience for a couple of the crew and I wanted to make sure it was a good one. I have stayed with MacBackpackers before and they are great! Always super central, super clean, a great price and the staff are so nice! We were able to book a room all to ourselves too (4 beds, bunk bed style) so that also makes a great into!

We check our bags into luggage lock up and stepped out the hostel steps on the Royal Mile to find some lunch and a pint. We found it almost right next door at the Royal Mile Tavern – a recommendation from the hostel lady who lovingly calls it ‘The Tav’. We call it that now too! It was so great. The Haggis was amazing, the pints cold and the staff were so friendly.

From here we set out to see, absorb, sip, walk and eat our way through Edinburgh! We started with a walk down the Royal Mile to Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Palace. Here are some pics of our walk down the Mile and our visit to the Palace and Abbey.

It’s hard work this tourist stuff so our next stop was the very old and just so cool Tollbooth Tavern for a cold pint and a glass of water. Such a cool pub and it was super busy – good energy!

But then we got hungry and a little chilled from our cold pints … needed a tea and scone after that at Procaffeination. There may have been some shenanigan picture taking on the very steep stairs to the bathroom after the caffeine soaked in.

Pints in, caffeine in – we were ready to waltz about the city for a few more hours and see what we could see! Wow you can just walk in any direction in this city and see cool, old stuff! Love!

Guess what? We got hungry and thirsty again after all this seeing the sights stuff! So off to find some dinner and another pint. Oh and this stop (our last for the night) included some live music. One guy playing a harmonica, tambourine secured to his foot, played guitar and sang. Amazing! He even sang a Mumford & Sons song – yahoo, our fav!

Day 1 Edinburgh complete. We headed back to the hostel for a good sleep so we would be ready for Day 2. Well the beds were comfy and the room was a good temperature but being right on High Street (Royal Mile) comes at a cost – the street never sleeps so we couldn’t either! We heard every siren, all the drunken crowds, and some guy loudly looking for Paul (wonder if they found him?).

On Day 2, our morning alarm was a window washer all the way on our second story – filling our drying boots on the windowsill with soapy water. Maybe they will stink less now!

Well we are up now – so Shar and I went for a quick hike up Arthur’s Seat as our morning workout, checked out an amazing old cemetery that included a watch tower that used to be manned by guards to catch grave robbers who were stealing bodies for medical study in the 1830s, and enjoyed a Turkish coffee. Great morning!

Shar and I headed back to the hostel and once all of our crew was ready for the day we headed out in search of breakfast. We were all happy it was sunny outside and took full advantage of this rare occurrence in Scotland by eating our eggs and drinking our teas on the Carruber’s Cafe patio right on the Royal Mile.

After breakfast we headed up to Edinburgh Castle – Rosa has a friend of a friend who left us free tickets for the Castle! No jokes! How epic is that? Cheryl and Rosa who have never been before set off to discover the secrets of that amazing stone building.

Shar and I who have been the castle before heading off to see what we could see in the crazy steep and twisted streets around the castle. Well we got so far as the Castle Arms Pub!

During our pint, we did some research on what else and where else our crew should venture in this amazing place. We planned for some Old Town time, a pub for lunch, tea in the afternoon and our ghost tour that night.

After our pints and after the Castle, we all had a chance to see the inside of a very old church that sits on the Mile. We had the chance to talk to the history lady at the church about the Order of the Thistle – the highest, elite order of knights in UK who are appointed directly by the Queen. This is not for the Sir Richard Bronson or Sir Sean Connery knights of the world but a much higher order and only 16 sit on the Order at a time. They had a women on the Order once too .. well besides the Queen herself of course. The first picture below is one wall of seats of the Order’s meeting place. The crest of each night sits above their seat.

Post our Church visit we headed over to Princes Street area where we checked out an old Parish, and walked through a cemetery where the oldest grave was from 1820. Amazing all the stone work on the headstones and tombs.

After this we headed went up to Rose Street which is so neat with its pink banners and pub after pub along the largely closed to traffic street. This area also has a bookstore which we could not resist! Yah got me a new book for our flight home.

Next stop was the Sir Walter Scott Monument which if you have the stamina and fortitude to climb the small, winding 287 steps up the tower to the top offers amazing views of the city. I made it to the museum and then platform 2 level for pics – then chickened our as the steps got smaller and more twisty. No thanks. The views were still amazing!

After that wee workout we needed a tea and scones. So off to Deacon Brodie’s Cafe we go. Sadly they were already out of scones when we got there so I sucked it up and settled for a Nutella crepe and a tea. Rosa got one too and we shared a banana to kick it up a notch. Mmmm Deacon Brodie is a perhaps one of the most infamous character of Edinburgh’s history – he designed the gallows and devised the best way to hang criminals. Years later he committed a crime himself (burglary) and was hanged by the very device he invented. Karma?

Here we are post tea ‘locked’ behind the Cafe bars.

Our next agenda item was to get some souvenirs or gifties for folks back home – the amazing cashmere tartan scarves in every shop were so hard to resist. Post shopping we headed back to the room to pack up a bit, and ready ourselves for our Haunted Ghost Tour we had scheduled for 930pm.

The tour was awesome. Ella our guide was dramatic (but not too much), sarcastic (in the funniest way possible) and just all around a cool gal for sure. We spent about 30mins above ground hearing ghost stories about the closes and winds (skinny alleyways between buildings) and then another 30mins in the vaults below the city.

The vaults were awesome! We were so deep below the streets you could not hear any street noise or see any natural light. It was all bricks, stone, rock and coldness. They had the place lit with candles (I am sure for effect) and some electric lights on the stairwell down. It was cold, it was damp and it was creepy! Good fun! Ella would stand with her candle in hand and tell the story of each of the ghosts in the vaults.

Post tour we of course had to snap a photo with this chick, she was just so cool. The picture does not do justice for her hair though – it was all purple, white, pink and teal dress locks. She had dragon earrings and a cape and funky heels on as well. What else would you expect from a trained historian turned Edinburgh ghost guide!?

Wrapping up the tour it was about 1030pm and we felt one last pint to toast our couple of days in Edinburgh was in order. So we headed to one of my favourite pubs, Deacon Brodie’s (yes that character again), and all enjoyed a cider while we chatted about our favourite moments of Edinburgh.