We See the Sea in Cee

Yesterday, Lana and I were back at it – moving along the Camino by our own two (well four) tired but happy to be on the trail feet.

We walked from Oliveroa to Cee. A go of 19kms or 30,465 Fitbit steps in a little less than 4hours. We had the pleasure (tongue in cheek) of either mist, rain or just plain old sogginess all day. It was our first day on the Camino where we had to wear waterproofs for the full walk. We have been at this Camino thing now for a couple weeks so that’s not too bad! No complaints.

We were up this morning at our usual time of about 7am with the rest of the hostel crew in our room of 12 near full bunk beds.

I was feeling more rested than the days prior thanks to my headphones that play literally the sound of a big electric fan running on repeat. White noise magic! Lana was a little less rested. A pilgrim in the bunk next to us was sawing logs like no one’s business. I turned up my white noise volume and Lana tuned him out – snoring not the problem. Turns out another pilgrim could not tune out the snoring and proceeded to snap loudly or clap from across the room trying to get the snorer to wake. But instead of waking the snorer actually just woke everyone else up. Not sure where they read that the snap/clap technique was a thing – cause it sure was not. You can tune out a consistent snore but not someone snapping and clapping loudly in small room at midnight. Too funny (well it is now, it was not late last night).

Any who, we were up and ready for our soggy day by 8 or so and enjoying breakfast (coffee, toast and bananas) in the cafe of our albergue. By 920 we had done our good morning social media stuff and we hit the trail. See ya later Casa Loncho of Oliveroa.

Boots on, packs covered, and waterproof jackets on we set out. We had pre-made some sandwiches for lunch but it looked like the sogginess of the day was going to prevent the vision of a picnic we had in mind. We threw them in my pack anyway of course and hoped for the best!

We were quickly out of our village and walking on a forest gravel road of sorts – up, down, across and up another river valley. The rain prevented much of a view and the fog hid the row of massive wind turbines that dot the ridge of the hills.

At the 4 or 5km mark we walked through the last couple of villages we would see before starting a barren stretch of approximately 12kms into Cee.

At one of these villages we learned about the ferocious Vakner said to haunt the woods we would be walking through – that’s great to know!? Where is my bear/Vakner spray? Do you act big with a Vakner like you would with a cougar? Or make loud noise and back away like a Bear? There was no Vakner tips in the guidebook.

With no reason to delay (besides being mangled by a Vakner) we got right to the barren stretch – it was foggy, humid, raining or misting (similar to a Scottish like mist) the whole time. We had our hoods up which makes it really difficult to have a conversation. So we just got up business!

While I couldn’t have my camera (aka iPhone) out much due to the rain, I was able to snap a few pics. The landscape was just awesome even in the rain. I can’t imagine how great it would look on a sunny day!


Before long we were at the ‘distinct decent’ section that was described in our guide book. A long, big toe punishing hill that when over means you are in Cee.

Lana and I did an assortment of jogging, switchback, long stride and short stride hiking techniques to get down the hill while keeping our toes intact. Lana felt the jogging was her best bet and would often be 20-30 feet in front of me jogging almost out of sight in the thick fog. If she didn’t have her lime green cover on her backpack I am not sure I would have seen her at all. Seems the Vakner does not like jogging, so we not only got down the hill in great time and we also kept the beast at bay. Win, win!

All of a sudden we saw a road, some houses m, and if you squinted hard enough you could also see the sea in the distance. We had made it to Cee on the Sea!

We found our humble new home, Albergue Tequeron at the beginning of town and just a couple blocks from the harbour and a bunch of great cafes and checked in. The hostel lady greeted us with tea and cookies! Perfect after such a soggy day!

We were finally in a dry place. So decided to have that pre-made sandwich picnic we had planned for a sunny afternoon instead in our rain roof hostel terrace!

After that there wasn’t too much to do besides hang our stuff to dry, shower of the muddy mess that was on our legs (clearly kicked up by our amazing speed and agility on the muddy trail) and check our Cee from under the hoods of our rain jackets!

Well that ended up being a sit in a great pub and journaling, playing Camino-grams (a travelling version of Scrabble / Bananagrams of sorts that I made with paper and stamps before leaving home – too keep the weight down) and seeing what is happening in the world on iPad and iPhone. We love evenings like this!

We are up and at it again this morning with a walk to what is called Mile 0 of the Camino in Finisterre about 20km away. The forecast is 30% rain and 97% humidity… aka soggy but smiling!

Buen Camino!

Loncho, No Poncho

Yesterday was a ‘get out of jail for free’ day on our Camino to Finisterre / Muxia, Spain …

What is that? Well, before leaving Canada, Lana and I agreed we each get one ‘get out of jail for free’ day. Basically we each get one day where we can say “neither of us walks tomorrow, we get to our planned destination together but not solely by our feet”. Lana played her card yesterday and so today instead of walking the 33km from Negreria to Oliveroa, we bussed from Negreria to Baines and walked just 8km to Oliveroa.

As of tomorrow we are on the coast when we walk which is something we are both super excited about. The most excited about of all things in the pilgrimage. So to give Lana’s feet the best chance at being able to walk the costal days, skipping one last and very long land lubber walk was in order. I am sad not to walk but my body is not complaining about the break and we made the day a great one in usual Lana and Brande fashion.

Truth be told, I have been plagued with bug bites every day that are swollen, sore and itchy and heat rash on my feet and some kind of blistering rash on my ankle. So perhaps everything happens just as it should on the Camino and this ‘get out of jail free’ card could have also been mine to play.

So here was our yesterday …

At 9am this morning we left our humble little home in Negreria, Albergue Alcerin. The owner was just the most helpful fellow ever with directions and bags and everything. He saw Lana shiver and immediately showed her where the extra blankets were and turned on the heat – the rest of us suffered but Lana was finally warm! This morning we woke to find all the power out, he was quickly on top of it and so apologetic. Definitely a great hostel in Negs.

We made our way to the bus stop just a couple blocks away and waiting for the bus that comes ‘about 9,930 or 10’ to spirit us to Baines. We were not the only pilgrims waiting – a 33km day is a tough one especially with a full pack and he forecast of rain, rain and rain.

About 30mins later we were dropped off in a baby road side village of Baines. We were pleasantly surprised to find a pharmacy (more blister bandaids for Lana, more bug stuff for me) and a little supermarket (a litre of wine in a Tetra pack – lighter than a bottle – and some tomato sauce for our pasta dinner). We also found a little cafe and accidentally had a yummy cafe con leche before heading out of town.

While walking we giggled at the weird prices here in Spain. An amazing coffee is 1.50 euros each (and came with free breakfast tapas), our 30 bus ride was 2.95 euros each but somehow a litre of wine and a container of pasta sauce was only 1.95 euros. We don’t have to understand to appreciate the approx 2 euros it would cost each of us for our homemade dinner tonight at the hostel when you add up all the ingredients. Yahoo deals!

The 8km walk was uneventful and unexciting – well the only 8km part was exciting for our bodies! It was along a secondary highway so we had to step into the ditch area a few times when big trucks and tractors passed but other than that just walk till yah get there.

We arrived at Casa Loncho around 1pm and of course carried on our tradition of toasting the day with a yummy cervaza con limon (beer with lemon cordial in it – a Spanish Radler of sorts) and some patatas fritas!

The rest of the day was quite literally spent, soaking up the sun, relaxing, journaling, laughing at our pics and adventure to date – sitting outside the pub at our hostel. We were told rain but heck no – it was 20C and awesome!

Around 5pm we ventured to the ‘kitchen’ the hostel makes available for pilgrims … aka mouse house. Oh yes, a wee mouse kept poking his head out at us wondering when we would leave so he could eat up our crumbs. Cute and gross haha

We made ourselves a penne, tomato sauce, fried garlic and chorizo sausage dinner with some baguette and white wine – all for a well spent 5euros (hey Shar that is the best 5bucks I ever spent!)

After dinner we took a little walk to take some pics of the local area.

Then it was showers, get our stuff ready for our 21km walk to Cee this morning – and for me catching up on some journaling and sketching.

We are now stepping out the door on a very rainy day. Check in from Cee!

Buen Camino