Yesterday was our easiest day yet on the trail, from Arzua to Pedrouzo in about 20km and just under 30,000 FitBit steps.
We had all day and not much trail to cover so we took our time and just enjoyed every bit of the Way.
Up at 630am when our hostel roomies started packing up their gear. How they got up so early after going to bed (aka turning out the light) at midnight in our room, will never know. I am a pumpkin by 9am and dog tired when I wake these days. These other pilgrims have figured something out I haven’t yet – was there a memo? Regardless I was up and excited to say goodbye to our hostel and hello to the trail!
We were on the path by a few mins after 8am and pleasantly surprised to see we had clear skies and a beautiful full moon still in view before the sun broke the horizon. Wow!
We couldn’t resist a village side stand selling bananas and other fresh fruit first thing in the morning to tide us over to our first coffee. Sometimes things are just too cute and perfect to pass up!
As the path climbed up those clear skies turned into either fog or maybe we were actually walking in a cloud – not sure which. In any case the fogginess made it hard to see much beyond the next 20-30 steps on the trail and dropped the temp from the expected 17C in the morning to 8C. We were freezing but it was beautiful so we loved it.
Around 1015am At the first awesome cafe we saw Casa Calzada in A Calzada (approx 9.4 km into the day) we popped in for our breakfast. It was only outside seating so we were super cold but a hot cafe con leche and breakfast tastes delicious no matter where and how! Mmmm
We didn’t daly to long. We were up and on the trail as soon as we finished, but wow it was cold. Now our fingers were cold and we were talking about how we will want this temp back when the cloud and fog does clear and we are roasting all afternoon.
Still chilled and in no rush, we decided another coffee was in order to chase the chills away. At Lino Cafe and just 1.5km later we had another coffee. Both of us cradling the cup like a heating pad for our fingers. We found it particularly amusing that the napkins in this second cafe featured a snail cartoon – perfect, today was a snail day for us for sure!
Finally warmer inside and more alert with 2 coffees in us, we were strolling with a spring in our step. In fact, we walked right though the fog lifting and the sun coming out and right into Pedrouzo arriving at about 130pm.
Before heading to the hostel to check in we stopped to toast a great day with our first Sangria this region boasts. We found an amazing cafe called Taste the Way! What a place, offers food and drink from all the regions of the Camino – we loved it. Oh and wow Sangria here is like sweet grape juice – doesn’t taste a thing like wine like it does at home. But we both know it is and some Brandy so we kept it to one glass or these wobbly legs would be eve wobblier.
We also added the Cheeses of the Way to our celebration and ate cheese, apples, nuts, rustic bread and Sangria for the afternoon. Delicious!
The rest of the day was spent sitting in the sun relaxing, journaling, and just enjoying not walking. Here are a few highlights from our afternoon and evening …
We went back to The Taste of the Way for dinner and enjoyed an awesome pilgrim’s meal with some local food choices. I could not resist trying the backed Scallop the Camino Way – the scallop shell is the symbol of the Camino. Delicious! Bread crumbs, cheese, ham and scallop.
Well that was yesterday and now we are off to begin today’s walk to Santiago, another pleasant 20km. For many people this is the end, for us it’s the end of this Camino St Frances and the start of our Camino Finisterre/Muxia!
Buen Camino!
Brande
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